Glued scopemount screws

For years I have had a torch head I used for water pipes that has a pin point flame, Great for this type of this.
I also have a couple tips ground for weller soldering guns that are round /flat that will fit on these screws.
Pen type of iron is easier, but they take a while to heat up, and the small ones are only 20-30 watts. The guns are 100 and 200 watts.
The point about the proper screwdriver is a big part of this.
 
Well its done, I just got the Screws out without damage all good now.

I started out with well fitting Screwdrivers and a decent size Soldering Iron, but even after 30 minutes or so trying nothing would budge.

Then out came my regular Butane Feed Soldering Torch, nice blue Flame with tip curling up and that is where after several tries and probably 15 - 20 seconds of Heat per Screw each one finally moved. As someone suggested I made a little Heat shield so the finish of the Scope would not suffer.

Thanks again for all the good advise which paid off !

Cheers
 
Good on you, Brassman66! I am just curious - was there evidence of loctite or similar along the screw threads, or were they over-tightened? Thinking about it, I would suspect finding the correct size and thread tap would allow you to "chase" those threads to clean them out. I do not know what brand that you are dealing with - the Ruger ones that I have seem to be #6-40 threads per inch; the Parker Hale rings seem to want 4BA size cap screws - other brand rings, for sure, use various other sizes, including metric stuff, so sometimes a bit of challenge to figure out what it is and find correct taps...
 
Henkel tells me that Loctite softens in the 250C range.

I see reference to tempering for (say) 4140 starting at 200C, with 250C being a good middle-of-the-road value (48RC).

So, by the time you get it hot enough to soften the Loctite you could be affecting the overall temper of the part.

Keeping the heating localized is probably a good idea.
 
Glad you got it solved. I had to remove a screw that held a Picatinny rail on a Turkish pump gun (aluminum receiver). I had to finally resort to a Dremel cutting wheel to create a deep enough slot. With all my might and downward pressure, I got that bast**d screw off. The gas tube, also glued in place with red loctite, required several trips to the oven! This is what my screw looked like before I cut a slot into it...a deep rounded cavern.
View attachment 487397
 
Good on you, Brassman66! I am just curious - was there evidence of loctite or similar along the screw threads, or were they over-tightened? Thinking about it, I would suspect finding the correct size and thread tap would allow you to "chase" those threads to clean them out. I do not know what brand that you are dealing with - the Ruger ones that I have seem to be #6-40 threads per inch; the Parker Hale rings seem to want 4BA size cap screws - other brand rings, for sure, use various other sizes, including metric stuff, so sometimes a bit of challenge to figure out what it is and find correct taps...

Thanks for asking,
Yes there was/still is a lot of whatever Glue what was used. The Scopes a bunch of Zeiss Scopes with SEM Scope mounts and therefore likely all metric thread. Will see (as someone suggested) if they clean up with Acetone otherwise will try to chase them threads with the proper Die/Tap. Nothing was damaged all good, happy Camper.

Cheers
 
Glad you got it solved. I had to remove a screw that held a Picatinny rail on a Turkish pump gun (aluminum receiver). I had to finally resort to a Dremel cutting wheel to create a deep enough slot. With all my might and downward pressure, I got that bast**d screw off. The gas tube, also glued in place with red loctite, required several trips to the oven! This is what my screw looked like before I cut a slot into it...a deep rounded cavern.
View attachment 487397

Yea this is the kind of stuff one stars sweating "Bullets".
Aluminum and Steel Screws can have a Galvanic reaction make it all but impossible to remove the way they where intended to. Glad you managed to get your out without breaking and creating a mess !

Cheers
 
Yea this is the kind of stuff one stars sweating "Bullets".
Aluminum and Steel Screws can have a Galvanic reaction make it all but impossible to remove the way they where intended to. Glad you managed to get your out without breaking and creating a mess !

Cheers

Well the Picatinny rail was the sacrificial lamb, but it was replaced by a much smaller and more discrete unit and I had room to install a quality side saddle. All-in-all, a painful experience but a good final result.
 
>trips to the oven

Nicely done. Short trips to the oven are definitely the right way to do it, rather than a long soak.

The references I've seen tell me that >200C can start to degrade the heat treatment of some aluminum alloys, so there is no temperature high enough to soften Loctite which is not also high enough to risk damaging the heat treatment. So the less time spent at heat, the better.

Light alloys are nice and light, but 1045 has a lot going for it too. Not as loud when you drop them on the floor too.

This business of getting small broken/rusted/stripped screws out of expensive aluminum parts is a continuing source of joy.
 
Good on you, Brassman66! I am just curious - was there evidence of loctite or similar along the screw threads, or were they over-tightened? Thinking about it, I would suspect finding the correct size and thread tap would allow you to "chase" those threads to clean them out. I do not know what brand that you are dealing with - the Ruger ones that I have seem to be #6-40 threads per inch; the Parker Hale rings seem to want 4BA size cap screws - other brand rings, for sure, use various other sizes, including metric stuff, so sometimes a bit of challenge to figure out what it is and find correct taps...

Yes there was Glue Material on the Screws. Threads are a special Metric Thread 3.5mm with a .6mm pitch, Taps & Dies are not available at the local Hardware Store.

Cheers
 
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