http://img.redwolfairsoft.com/upload/product/img/GOLD-1911-2L.jpg
That's pretty sick looking bling, homie.
But seriously, if you want a finish like that, it needs to be a thick enough EP to brush it out after, which is serious bucks. If I were going to get this done, I would buy a blue norc frame and start with that because it will be cheaper than the clearancing work and dipping necessary to get the stainless parts prepped for gold.
You'll need to clearance the slide rails to allow a copper + nickel base layer of at least 10 mils in my understanding but an experienced finisher will know best. They'll want you to have all the prep work done before they touch it.
You'll also have to clearance the mag well, and all pin holes. You can clearance and refinish the hammer and trigger after plating. Holes will fill in thicker than flat surfaces so make sure you use a sharp drill bit to clean them out after plating too.
The nickel needs to not be exposed under the gold or you'll start a nickel oxide layer forming that will cause the gold to peel. The gold should be a cobalt gold alloy so it can stand up to the task. 18K would be as high as I'd go. The example you mentioned looks like 10K from the color. 18K will be much yellower.
If you want a gunsmith to tackle that end to end it's going to cost at least a grand. You'll have to ask around to see if anyone wants to touch it. If you want to do some clearencing, disassembly and reassembly yourself the plating alone will cost probably $500 done right.
The thing with it is that if you don't take off enough material at the start, it won't last and/or will bind.
The Chrome Pit, in Winnipeg or The Plating House, in Ontario, I would trust to do the plating, but you'll want to ask lots of questions to find out exactly what their recommendations are as far as prep, masking and cleanup. Especially if you do the rest yourself.
Good luck.
