Good boresighter ?
- Thread starter Dagmaar
- Start date
I appreciate you want to learn to do the job yourself and the frequent use of boresighters. Why purchase a boresighter?
After you have your scope mounted and adjusted in position try this. Place a 2' x2' cardboard or blank paper with a simple 4" black circle in the centre. You can use a felt pen for the circle. Place the target board at 20-25 yds. If your rifle is a bolt action(easiest to follow this procedure) ,remove the bolt, sight through the bore from the breach end at the target with the rifle well supported on a bench. Centre the aiming spot in the middle of the bore. Without moving the rifle, adjust the scope adjustments to bring the reticle centred on the aiming spot.
Now replace the bolt and fire a few confirmation shots. Do the fine adjustment as needed. Place a target at the distance you wish to be sighted for and you should be able to fine adjust to get zeroed in.
With semi-autos and levers you can just shoot at the target at close range - the reason for the 2' square. You want to be able to register the shots if the scope is out a lot.
Unless you like gadgets or just want to have one, boresighters are largely a waste. They will get you on the paper at 25 yds and fine adjustment will still be needed with zeroing shots. The cash you save from the boresighter will buy more ammo for your new rifle and with practice you will have any rifle sighted in with just a few shots with the above procedure. Have fun with your new rifle.
After you have your scope mounted and adjusted in position try this. Place a 2' x2' cardboard or blank paper with a simple 4" black circle in the centre. You can use a felt pen for the circle. Place the target board at 20-25 yds. If your rifle is a bolt action(easiest to follow this procedure) ,remove the bolt, sight through the bore from the breach end at the target with the rifle well supported on a bench. Centre the aiming spot in the middle of the bore. Without moving the rifle, adjust the scope adjustments to bring the reticle centred on the aiming spot.
Now replace the bolt and fire a few confirmation shots. Do the fine adjustment as needed. Place a target at the distance you wish to be sighted for and you should be able to fine adjust to get zeroed in.
With semi-autos and levers you can just shoot at the target at close range - the reason for the 2' square. You want to be able to register the shots if the scope is out a lot.
Unless you like gadgets or just want to have one, boresighters are largely a waste. They will get you on the paper at 25 yds and fine adjustment will still be needed with zeroing shots. The cash you save from the boresighter will buy more ammo for your new rifle and with practice you will have any rifle sighted in with just a few shots with the above procedure. Have fun with your new rifle.
Holy crap ! I am out at the range and after about 15 mins I got my used Weaver k4 mounted and dialed in ! I thought it would be much more difficult than that ! As someone who had never mounted a scope , I thought it would be really tough but I just adjusted the .....er... Adjustment screws after each shot until I hit bullseye .
Awesome
Thanks Lodi
And Dryfire , your well explained directions just made it easy !
Can't believe I was going to pay someone to do that , and now all that money goes to ammo .
Wow , you folks are great !
Awesome
Thanks Lodi
And Dryfire , your well explained directions just made it easy !
Can't believe I was going to pay someone to do that , and now all that money goes to ammo .
Wow , you folks are great !
The Bushnell magnetic mount boresighter is pretty cheap (~$30) and I have heard good things about it.
Cheap insurance on a Hunting Trip, to be able to stick it in place and see that the readings have not changed after the truck ride, or in the event of taking a slide down a hill, when you don't want to start sighting in from scratch to confirm it all.
The cardboard box method works great when you can sight through the barrel. For a .22, I have usually used a convenient sand bank, and simply fired and adjusted until I was on where I wanted to be.
Cheers
Trev
Cheap insurance on a Hunting Trip, to be able to stick it in place and see that the readings have not changed after the truck ride, or in the event of taking a slide down a hill, when you don't want to start sighting in from scratch to confirm it all.
The cardboard box method works great when you can sight through the barrel. For a .22, I have usually used a convenient sand bank, and simply fired and adjusted until I was on where I wanted to be.
Cheers
Trev
Thanks Trev !
That's not a bad idea .
I must have gone through 400 rounds yesterday after mounting and sighting . I will go out tomorrow and see if it is still true after the trip .
For a person who's never used a scope , I am pretty giddy about the results . My aged eyes have definitely made me a scope convert !
That's not a bad idea .
I must have gone through 400 rounds yesterday after mounting and sighting . I will go out tomorrow and see if it is still true after the trip .
For a person who's never used a scope , I am pretty giddy about the results . My aged eyes have definitely made me a scope convert !
I have the Bushnell magnetic boresighter and it works very well as long as the scope is not mounted too high. I think that most .22 setups would be OK. I ran into problems with setting up an SL8 with a scope mounted on the factory rail.
I have the magnetic boresighter too. Anyone have any tips for getting it lined up with the scope? I have found that part of it to be a chore. Everything depends on getting the thing perfectly centered with the center of the scope, as far as I can see.
From my experience with the bore slighter I found that lining it up perfectly was not critical. Just try marking down your crosshair location then shifting the bore slighter around and checking your crosshair location again it will likely not have changed and if it has it will be minimal.
