Good places to try binoculars?

rishu_pepper

rishu_pepper

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I'm looking to buy a pair of binoculars, but I'd really want to try a few models out before purchasing them, most probably online. Are they any stores in the GVA that has a wide selection of bino's?

As for buying online, any suggestions on stores? I hear good things about cameralandny. Anywhere else?

Thanks y'all, I feel like a noob hunter-wannabe (which I am, as of writing :D) without a decent pair of bino's! :)
 
I 've always felt that when guys like go to a shop and "Try out some Binos" take up somebody's time and expertise, then run home and see if they can save a nickel getting them online. I suppose London drugs has likely the best selection on Vancouver Island. FS
 
on the other hand, there's nothing better to get a feel of how they perform and buying on line without actually trying them out in real life is, at best, a shot in the dark- you may get something that's far too heavy, overpowered, and nowhere near what you want- on the other hand, trying one out in a store may also get you a near perfect set ( they do happen in the so-called "cheap" lines too- when i was in the retail end of it,( we sold carl wetzlars, ziess, wild, and a bunch of others) i can't remember how many people would buy 20x50 ( we used to call them u-boat binocs) and they'd be returned shortly as they didn't suit- well, you NEED A TRIPOD to hold those steady-
 
Well, I went to London Drugs earlier and tried out some of the various models they had (don't worry fassteel, I didn't bother any of the staff, the bino's were just sitting there as demos so anyone could look at them, though to a certain point, I must agree that going into a store with no intention of buying is not the best thing to do, bino's is one of the few exceptions I guess).

I tried the Nikon Monarch 10x56, the image is very nice and clear, but it's a little too heavy for me. I think I'll opt for the smaller 8x36 model instead (or should I get 10x36? I'm not sure which is a better choice. Can anyone shed some light on this? I'm using this for deers and waterfowls mostly)
 
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there's little to no weight difference in the 7x50 to 10 x50, provided the tubes are the same length - it's not the power that gives the weight, but the objective lens( the 50 or whatever) and the number of lenses between the eyepiece and the objective and what the binocular is made of- on the other hand , the larger the objective lens, the greater light gathering capability- ie the better dusk and dawn or low light capability- and the lower the power , the greater your field of view is going to be- in all around situations, the 7-8 power is probably the best and somewhere around a 35-40 mm objective lens, leaning towards the 40- of couse, there's also a variable scene too, just like in riflescopes- it's awfully nice to be able to go up a few power at the flick of a switch- say 7-10x35 - granted, you'll be probably down at 7 most of the time- just like the 3-9xguys with the rifles stay mostly at about 4- given what you're doing which involves a lot of dusk and dawn, i'd go variable 7-10x50 or better and get used to the weight
 
granted you do pay a premium for a variable, but with the brand you're looking at , it's not exactly low-end glass either- right now NIKON has to be one of the best lens manufacturers in the world- that said,i'd LOOK SERIOUSLY AT OTHER manufacturers as well- in camera lenses they're WAY OVERPRICED-what you really need to do is get the spec sheet as well as find out how the glasses are coated, what the transmission rate is, and a bunch of other stuff- when i got my 8x40's , i must have gone thru the entire stock a couple of times, and i was working in the SERVICE DEPT- if i had to do it all over again, i'd be getting a 7 x variable, probably in 35mm ( my needs are WAY different than yours) and probably a lieca, leupold,Baush & lomb- who got bought out by bushnell) or possibly a bushnell,( THERE ARE OTHERS AS WELL)at about half of your pricing unless nikon makes a low end now- most folks wouldn't know the difference in the quality of the glass between the nikon and everything else and are BUYING THE NAME
 
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t-star said:
granted you do pay a premium for a variable, but with the brand you're looking at , it's not exactly low-end glass either- right now NIKON has to be one of the best lens manufacturers in the world- that said,i'd LOOK SERIOUSLY AT OTHER manufacturers as well- in camera lenses they're WAY OVERPRICED-what you really need to do is get the spec sheet as well as find out how the glasses are coated, what the transmission rate is, and a bunch of other stuff- when i got my 8x40's , i must have gone thru the entire stock a couple of times, and i was working in the SERVICE DEPT- if i had to do it all over again, i'd be getting a 7 x variable, probably in 35mm ( my needs are WAY different than yours) and probably a lieca, leupold,Baush & lomb- who got bought out by bushnell) or possibly a bushnell,( THERE ARE OTHERS AS WELL)at about half of your pricing unless nikon makes a low end now- most folks wouldn't know the difference in the quality of the glass between the nikon and everything else and are BUYING THE NAME
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As much as I would like to, I just cannot afford a few hundred bucks on a pair of bino's right now. Variable does sound nice and possibly an option to consider in the future, but for my current needs a fixed power is satisfactory enough for me. Besides, the 8x35mm Monarch only runs about $200 for a refurb so I should do alright with it. When/If I have more money to burn, SWARO's FTW, I know I'll just buy it for the name but who cares! :D

Thanks for all the tips!:)
 
ok, now i know hat we're talking about- the nikons i was referring to run about a GRAND or better brand new- closer to 2 , nowhere near you're spending- since you're getting referb, be sure and find out who did the work as well as what kind of warranty is offered- and take a good look for things like sticky focus, or gritty feeling adjustments- a lot depends on whether its a factory thorough rebuild or just what some guy did when he took them in trade-
 
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