Got a couple other Questions?

Goose25

Goose25

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Some of you might have noticed that I've been poking around for info in the reloading section the last couple weeks. I've been doing some reading and I believe I got a good grasp on how to proceed safely.


I picked up the Lyman reloading handbook and have a RCBS Starter Kit on it's way. I'm also heading out to Higginsons Powders this week to pick up a couple items that is needed to begin;

RCBS KIT;
* Reloader Special-5 Press
* 5-0-5 Scale
* Case Loading Block
* Case Lube Kit
* Primer Tray-2
* Powder Funnel
* Deburring Tool
* Speer Reloading Manual #13

to buy list;
* .30-06 Lee deluxe Die set
* Lee case trimmer, w/case lenght gauge + shellholder
* Primer pocket cleaner
* Lee auto prime + shellholder
* Powder Trickler
* vernier caliper
* Bullets, Powder, Brass, Primers

Future to buy list;
* Chronograph
* Bullet Puller



Am I missing anything?


I was told by the velvet 'stached 18 year old clerk at LeBaron that I would need to replace the lock rings on the Lee die's? Is this true?


How Do I determine the maximum cartridge length for my rifle? And how do I determine the right "Distance to lands" when seating a bullet? Being a NOOB, Should I be concerned with this? Can someone point me in the right direction or shed some light on this subject?

I would like to work up two different loads, one for hunting, the other for paper punching. I would like to work up a practice load with cheaper bullets that will mimic my more expensive hunting loads. I mostly hunt Whitetail and black bear with this particular rifle. Some/most of you might suggest that I do not need a premium bullet for CXP2 class game at .30-06 velocities, But I have had the unfortunate experience of losing a black bear in the past, which had been shot at 20 yards with a 180gr core-lokt. :( was it bullet failure? Was it the man behind the gun? I'll never know. All I can say is that it sucks, and from that moment on I decided that I rather spend an extra couple bucks on Premium bullets for hunting purpose's rather than risking the chance of wounding an animal and failing to recover it.


It seems that there have been reports as to the lack of expansion with the Barnes TSX on deer sized game. Therefore, I'm leaning towards a premium bonded bullet like the Partition, Accubond or Interbond for hunting...what are your thoughts? I usually encounter close range shoulder shots on blackies and 30-250 yard shots on whitetails (usually -100yards).


For my practice loads I am undecided between an over-the-counter Match grade bullets or regular core-cup bullets. Keeping in mind that every rifle likes a particular load/bullet/etc.... Generally speaking, does a match grade bullet offer noticeable superior performances when shooting at targets up to and including 200yards? Is the extra cost, (even though it can seem minimal) worth it?


These are the Match bullets that I would have a look at;

Sierra 168gr Matchking
Hornady 168gr A-max
Hornady 168gr BTHP Match
Speer 168gr BTHP Match


The Sierra MK seems to be a crowd favorite. But I'm having a hard time getting my hands on them at a resonable price in MTL. I Have the privilege to be a short drive away from Higginsons powders, and could pickup some hornady's at a reasonable price. I got the impression that the Speer BTHP isn't a crowd favorite? Is there a reason?

Keeping in mind my particular situation, Which bullet would you recommend?

any and all other suggestions you may have are appreciated and welcome:)
 
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Goose25

First off I don't think you lost the bear because of the bullet. ts been my expeience that these major manf. of ammo, win and rem take there bullets they use quite serious.

My choice on dies would be RCBS. Your starter kit will serve you very well. I have the same one. Thet 505 scale is ok but I would like a electronic one in the future. I have an rcbs case trimmer and its a piece of ####. I prefer the forrester case trimmer. It has a faster chuck and it much easier to operate. Make sure you vernier caliper is a dial or electronic caliper. On your future list I would also put a lyman tumbler before the other stuff.

Here's what I do. Resize a case, don't put a primer in , stick the bullet in the mouth of the case and put it in the gun and close the bolt. Your bullet is on the lands. Open the bolt and see if the rnd will fall out. If it doesn't carfully take a cleaning rod from the muzzle end with no cleaning tip and tap it out. Use this to set your bullet seating depth. If you have a non bolt gun you can also take the end of a shot case and squeeze it flat slightly, enough that it will hold a bullet and do the same process. When I seat I will go 10 thou. deeper using the calipers to get it right.

Please do not use match bullets for hunting. They are not built for hunting but are for target use.---Cowboy
 
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Your asking a lot of a bullet 30 to 250 yards. Look at velocity charts and you will see the difference in impact welocities. Most bullet manufacturers have great products. Practicing with cheap bullets will tell you how your rifle shoot cheap bullets. Nothing wrong with cheap practice, but sight in your rifile with the bullets you are going to hunt with at the distance you think most shots will be. After you have done that practice some more. The coment re the lee lock rings is a crock of (&%^$@ they have a rubber oring in them and I personally like them over other style with a set screw. Just a personal coment.
 
Cowboy said:
Goose25

First off I don't think you lost the bear because of the bullet. ts been my expeience that these major manf. of ammo, win and rem take there bullets they use quite serious.
Click to expand...

Never said it absolutely WAS the bullet, It could have been the bullet is what I ment. Is it not probable that a cup-core bullet would have a greater chance to fall apart than a bonded bullet? I'm not saying the rem core-lokt is inappropriate for hunting, Hell there have been truck loads of game taken with core-lokts in the past (even a couple on my part). When compared to all other hunting expense's, I just think that the extra price of a premium bullet is the smallest expense that I have to make to increase the chances of a succesful humane kill. personal choice I guess.

Cowboy said:
Goose25

My choice on dies would be RCBS. Your starter kit will serve you very well. I have the same one. Thet 505 scale is ok but I would like a electronic one in the future. I have an rcbs case trimmer and its a piece of s**t. I prefer the forrester case trimmer. It has a faster chuck and it much easier to operate. Make sure you vernier caliper is a dial or electronic caliper. On your future list I would also put a lyman tumbler before the other stuff.
Click to expand...

Why the RCBS die? I can get the Lee deluxe die set which includes a neck sizing die for the same price? Is RCBS that much better?

I am lucky enough to have a fellow gunnut who is getting into reloading himself, Lucky for me He got himself a tumbler and offered to clean my brass until I purchase one of my own.;)

Cowboy said:
Here's what I do. Resize a case, don't put a primer in , stick the bullet in the mouth of the case and put it in the gun and close the bolt. Your bullet is on the lands. Open the bolt and see if the rnd will fall out. If it doesn't carfully take a cleaning rod from the muzzle end with no cleaning tip and tap it out. Use this to set your bullet seating depth. If you have a non bolt gun you can also take the end of a shot case and squeeze it flat slightly, enough that it will hold a bullet and do the same process. When I seat I will go 10 thou. deeper using the calipers to get it right.
Click to expand...

great input, thanks!

Cowboy said:
Please do not use match bullets for hunting. They are not built for hunting but are for target use.---Cowboy
Click to expand...

where does is say I was planning on using match bullets for hunting:confused:
 
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Cowboy said:
Excuse me for pissing in your cornflakes,I'll know better next time. Just trying to be helpfull---- but I guess al lI've done is piss you off---byebye----Cowboy
Click to expand...

Dude, you were helpful...
Did I come off as being an ass? Sorry man, no harm intended:redface:
 
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The lee dies are a good choice and Iceman is right about the lock ring.As for the bullet IB,AB good choice for deer or bear and by practice do you mean getting used to the rifle? Then cheaper bullets are okay for practice but do work up a hunting load and sigt in with it before going afield.
If you are doing limited number of cases for trimming the lee trimmer works fine.If you are getting into massive numbers a rotary trimmer is much better.Atumbler of some sort would be an ideal future addition.And the press comes with a primer seater .After all else is said remember,have fun.
 
Food for thought. Buy the Lee shellhoder kit for the autuprime. Has most of the shellholders you will ever need should you expand into other cartridges. Cheaper compared to individual shellholder and they come in a nice plastic storage case to help avoid "misplacing" them.:)
 
I bought the Lee Deluxe for my .308 Winchester. This is a three die set with the neck die working on a collett to size to a mandrell. The working of the brass is minimal and suits me. Just follow the instructions to set it up. I also have one for .22-250 as the neck was so thin a RCBS would not size it down enough.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys.

Is a powder trickler a handy reloading tool? I've had a couple folks tell me that a powder trickler is the most often bought and later never used tool on the reloaders bench. Do I NEED a powder dispenser? The cost of equipment is adding up fast, I'd like to have a couple bucks leftover for components when Im done. Is a powder measure and/or Trickler Necessary? can I make due without one for now? Can I improvise (safely)?

To help me find a good match between a hunting bullet and a practice bullet, I've been looking closely at the ballistic Coefficiency of several bullets. It seems like the 180gr Interbond (B.C = 0.480, S.D = 0.271)is a close match to the cheaper 180gr Speer spitzer Sp (B.C = 0.483, S.D = 0.271). The 165gr Accubond (B.C = 0.475, S.D = 0.248) and inexpensive 165gr Speer BTSP (B.C = 0.477, S.D = 0.248)are another good match. The 180gr Speer SP is a flat based bullet and the Interbond has a boat tail base design, can I expect different performances even though they are a good match on paper? How much importance should I designate to these findings?
 
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You will have to work up a load with each type of bullet even though theey are the same weight.The slight difference in the shape can change pressures drastically.Yes you can improvise a trickler.Using a non static pan (Tart cup)
and a spoon or the dipper that comes with the lee dies.GENTLY shake powder from dipper into scale pan watching the pointer on the beam.This warks for people I know that don't want to buy a trickler.
 
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