My pics wont turn out well but im sure you can picture it, I grinded slighty into the back of the gas tube on my SKS there in connects under the iron sights... Its a tight fit with no wobble and by the looks of the holes and other flaws in all the SKS even if there is a small small pinhole gap there should not be an issue correct? Im sure everyone is wondering why, well it was a refurb without the "slant" and the switch would not go down at all till I did. I imagine worse case if there is an issue it would not cycle and that would be when I know I need to replace?
Got abit grinder happy on the Back part on my SKS gas tube, Will this cause issues?
- Thread starter CanadianBaconPancakes
- Start date
It's on the low pressure side of the gas piston, shouldn't be a problem.
Although in the future I found in my experience it's actually the wood handguard that is holding the block that you ground down up tight to the latch. Try installing it without the stock on, and if it slides in easy, then you need to file a little bit off the bottom of the wooden part of the handguard where it presses against the stock.
The wood has nothing to do with it. He's talking about the bevel on the top rear end of the gas tube where it inlets into the rear sight base. The op rod /gas tube retaining lever wouldnt close because there was no bevel on the top of the gas tube. IF he cut too much, it may be ugly but as long as it is tight it's good to go. The piston has made it's farthest rearward travel WELL before that, at that point of the gas tube it's merely a guide for the piston rod.
Yeah, I know the area he's talking about, and I've experienced a few that were very tight/borderline impossible to jam in there and get the lever to close on it, but one day I tried it without the stock on and the lever flipped down no problem. The bevel is only there if it needs it for clearance, which it doesn't always need provided the wood of the handguard isn't holding the whole thing up a little higher than normal, which makes it seem like it needs more of a bevel to get the lever down. I don't know about you, but I would rather shave a little wood to make it fit better than metal if it was an option.
That handguard wood must have been really proud of the rear retainer for that to happen! In that case, definitely shave the wood. There has to be a slight bevel though to cam against the radius of the lock though.
