Got my new Babies in today!(50 BMG)

Ice-Pick

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Barrie, Ontario
Just some pics for the curious, been working on a design for my own bullets.
It's been a pain in the butt finding affordable bullets for the big 50, so when all else fails , phone your buddy with the machine shop.
Made a few 800's and they shot quit well but wanted something different so I edited the design a bit on the 800's added another groove lost some of the Boat tail in favour of a Rebated boat tail (looks like the front of a semi wadcutter bullet) and wa la.
I have my first batch (gonna try em tomorrow) of my very own design 50 BMG
750 gr. solid bullets. (Cheaper than buying the Hornady's)

M.
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Those are almost too pretty to shoot. Why the grooves and rebating? Are you trying to reduce the bearing surface or something? I know squat about big bore stuff like this.
 
First Solids I got to study were boreriders, they have a diameter similar to the bore from land to land with a larger ridge near the back of the bullet that measures .510, this is forced into the grooves of the rifling and generates the spin that's necessary.
I made a couple of 800's like that (had them made) they shot really well.
I didn't like where the .510 area was , it landed inside of the case mouth so I moved it up the bullet to match the seating depth I needed/ wanted to use.
I wanted another ridge closer to the front but didn't want to bump the pressure up too high so I kept it small , like the rear one; I only need enough bullet IN the groove to give me a nice stable spin, being that I havn't figured out how to shoot one of these and actually get it back to study the results yet with out complete mangling the bullet I wanted to play it safe, the area between the ridges is under 50 cal. slightly.
Common sense and some physics told me a Jacketed Lead bullet would compress alot easier than a solid one so a larger bearing surface was ok for jacketed but maybe not a solid.
They are produced on a CNC machine and untill I get them going in bulk i'm not sure what the cost is gonna be other than they will be cheaper than buying off the shelf for me and I don't have to hunt all over for a store that might or might not have em on the shelf. Having these done for me locally will give me ready access to affordable top quality bullets probably by the looks of thing in the $2 or just under price area.
I hear a box of 20 Hornady Amax bullets is around $70-75 now I could be wrong, I have a 5-6 yr old pack here that has a price on it of $42.00.
I'm looking forward to testing these tomorow.

M.
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First batch down range

They worked fairly well today no, lasting damage, no maimed spectators or local livestock. I loaded up some of the Amax for a comparison.
Got to the range set up a set of old electrical drawing on the backers so's we'd know where things were going, posted some targets and a couple of stickers.
Back at the firing line, we set everything up everything and fired a few Ball rounds first, got barrell warm and then cleaned it thoroughly.
We found we were shooting very high so decieded to just hold off as I didn't want to change the sites that were set to 300 yrd/ zero.
We fired the 5 Hornady rounds first then the 5 of mine. I found the load quite substantial, managable but hefty. I plan to back the load down 10 grains and try again.

The bullets actually had less recoil than the Amax 750's and the group looked a little better, neither are any where near the grouping I get from my 650 ball load but i've been adjusting that one for a year now. Test firing was done at 200 yrds as that's what we had quick access to.
Gonna seat them a hair deeper and work on the load. But I've ordered 50 more.

Mike.
Ball load
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Amax load
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750 solids
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if their was three shots together at 2 hundred it would look a bit better. I dont know alot about fifitys but your other groups looked pretty bad.. Is it that hard to get those guns to shoot, i only own guns up to a 300win mag.
 
Travis, buddy, try something for me.....
Build your OWN bullet, GUESS at the powder charge, fire 5 rds at the target while having someone hit YOU in the forehead with a hammer for each one,,,
then show me YOUR target.

This was a FIRST firing of these bullets.

M.
 
dont get me wrong, the machining looks nice and someone did a good job for you... i think its a good idea. but i was under the impression that a 50 was an accurate calibre. am i wrong or are all those groups pretty, ummm, (nicely).. large?
 
dont get me wrong, the machining looks nice and someone did a good job for you... i think its a good idea. but i was under the impression that a 50 was an accurate calibre. am i wrong or are all those groups pretty, ummm, (nicely).. large?

If you have any doubts regarding the accuracy of a 50 BMG, I suggest that you read thru the Summerland Fun Shoot thread.
I'm sure that Mystic Player, organizer of the Shoot would be more than willing to say that our 50s are quite accurate up to and in excess of a mile.
Unless I'm chronographing test loads I try not to shoot mine at any distance less than about 800 yds. because that is where it starts working very well.
From my experience it seems like the 50 cal. bullet has to fly several hundred yards before it settles down to smooth flight.
Theres nothing I enjoy more than firing at a target a mile away and having my spotter tell me that the big slug landed exactly where I aimed.
A word of caution Travis....if you ever should fire a 50 ...it is addictive !!
:D:D :sniper:
 
If you have any doubts regarding the accuracy of a 50 BMG, I suggest that you read thru the Summerland Fun Shoot thread.
I'm sure that Mystic Player, organizer of the Shoot would be more than willing to say that our 50s are quite accurate up to and in excess of a mile.
Unless I'm chronographing test loads I try not to shoot mine at any distance less than about 800 yds. because that is where it starts working very well.
From my experience it seems like the 50 cal. bullet has to fly several hundred yards before it settles down to smooth flight.
Theres nothing I enjoy more than firing at a target a mile away and having my spotter tell me that the big slug landed exactly where I aimed.
A word of caution Travis....if you ever should fire a 50 ...it is addictive !!
:D:D :sniper:


I woulda been disappointed ina group like that untill I read the above.
 
Given how well the ball ammo grouped, I can say ALOT more load work for either bullet is required.

It is a very rare day when you can just pick a powder amount and get great results. A proper work up is necessary and that takes some shooting.

Those bullets look great and I wish you luck finding the right load. Let us know how things improve.

200yds is far enough to test for now. 3MOA groups don't become 1MOA groups at 700yds. They usually just keep getting worse.

Watch for wind, and how that rifle is bouncing. Take ALOT of rests as the concussion is going to do silly things to your vision and reflexes.

Enjoy...

Jerry
 
hey jerry you should do a 50 caliber BMG based off a savage action would have to scale up and custem build it but it would be cools the stevens 200 budsget 50 caliber rifle they're have to build them in canada though so they can sell them here

that would so put a hamper in remingtons market :p
 
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First Solids I got to study were boreriders, they have a diameter similar to the bore from land to land with a larger ridge near the back of the bullet that measures .510, this is forced into the grooves of the rifling and generates the spin that's necessary.
I made a couple of 800's like that (had them made) they shot really well.
I didn't like where the .510 area was , it landed inside of the case mouth so I moved it up the bullet to match the seating depth I needed/ wanted to use.
I wanted another ridge closer to the front but didn't want to bump the pressure up too high so I kept it small , like the rear one; I only need enough bullet IN the groove to give me a nice stable spin, being that I havn't figured out how to shoot one of these and actually get it back to study the results yet with out complete mangling the bullet I wanted to play it safe, the area between the ridges is under 50 cal. slightly.
Common sense and some physics told me a Jacketed Lead bullet would compress alot easier than a solid one so a larger bearing surface was ok for jacketed but maybe not a solid.
They are produced on a CNC machine and untill I get them going in bulk i'm not sure what the cost is gonna be other than they will be cheaper than buying off the shelf for me and I don't have to hunt all over for a store that might or might not have em on the shelf. Having these done for me locally will give me ready access to affordable top quality bullets probably by the looks of thing in the $2 or just under price area.
I hear a box of 20 Hornady Amax bullets is around $70-75 now I could be wrong, I have a 5-6 yr old pack here that has a price on it of $42.00.
I'm looking forward to testing these tomorow.

M.
DSC00885.jpg

DSC00888.jpg

DSC00892.jpg

hmmmm 2 bucks wow thats good pricing

allways wanted to atleast fire a 50 BMG but ammo isn't easy to come by and they're arn't that many the rumours i have heard it's like someone put a pound of trinitro taluine a few feet from you and set it off
 
PS if your interested i'll send you some gel to do see what the terminal balistics are like i am considering picking up this new clear reusable stuff i saw not sure if i can get it here
 
Accurate Caliber

These rifles can be VERY accurate in the right hands and with the right bullet and load.
Travis don't mind me for sounding defensive BUT, Your critisizing something you obviously don't understand. When my buddy first bought his .308 we shot a box of factory cartridges and realized this was gonna get pricey fast, back in the club house we asked another guy who shot a .308 what he suggested. He said, 168 gr Sierra's, a certain amount of Varget powder, seat the bullets to the lengh in the book and used "x" brand primers, we went home did that and came back the next day. First 5 shots I made (my buddy gets me to prove his experiments) all 5 holes overlapped at 100M.

We had a KNOWN bullet, a KNOWN type and amount of powder and a KNOWN seating depth of the bullet with a Primer that never fails.

With this current project I have an UNKNOWN bullet, these are MY design I havn't just copied something I know works, I have and UNKNOWN powder I have never worked with before (no-one I know has used it before)
An UNKNOWN amount of powder , my only guide lines are safety guide lines, I can't look this up in a book where someone has writen down what worked for them and go from there like most people do with a Lymans book lying around.
And an UNKNOWN seating depth. With NO choice in primers.
To make things worse I only have regular access to 200 yds, while this might sound ok to someone building a load for a .223 it's mostly a waste of powder for a .50 cal. I have a bullet design here THAT'S NOT SUPPOSED TO WORK UNDER 500 YARDS.
Last weekend although I was hitting the center of the target with in a 4.5" circle from 300 yds I didn't have bullet holes I had KEYHOLES for most of them. If this doesn't make sense to you picture the bullet going in to the target at a 15-30 degree angle ,,,, try throwing a dart at a board sideways
and get results; for comarison I fired 3 shots with the Hornady 750 amax's i loaded (US 869/ 250 gr), from 300 yds. 3 V bulls; definately not the news I was looking for at the end of a long day, but I made a note that it would make a dynamite short range load for the gun.
Today I got out to 900 yds. and after some quick math and a good estimate (remember, experimental everything) I make the come up from 300 to 900 , shot 1 low in the dirt, 1 high just above the black circle , adjusted and the next dozen all were in the black of the target DURING A GUSTY/WINDY (upto 20mph) afternoon. (Ask any of the O.R.A guys from mons range today about this afternoons wind.)
I have no doubts that if I shoot at longer yardages and get a calmer day the groups will shrink drastically as even in a lousy windy day they weren't too hard to keep in the black.
Powder i'm working with is US 869 as I can no longer get my favourite one H5010. I find the recoil from H50BMG to be a little excessive and the powder being an "extreme" powder is alot more expensive. My goal is not only to get a bullet built that I can produce in quality and quantity but have a load that's so easily managable (for a 50) that I can shoot a 60 rd. F-class match by the end of summer with out needing a chiropractor or surgery.

Alder PM me and I'll see about getting you out to shoot the 50, you look like your fairly local to me.

I'm gonna post a pic below here, this was from a load that took about 6 weeks of experimenting to get. 205 gr. of H 5010 with a 647 gr. Ball , pulled bullet. There's a flyer that's my fault, I flinched just before breaking the trigger when a black powder gun beside me went off with no warning.

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M.
 
These rifles can be VERY accurate in the right hands and with the right bullet and load.
Travis don't mind me for sounding defensive BUT, Your critisizing something you obviously don't understand. When my buddy first bought his .308 we shot a box of factory cartridges and realized this was gonna get pricey fast, back in the club house we asked another guy who shot a .308 what he suggested. He said, 168 gr Sierra's, a certain amount of Varget powder, seat the bullets to the lengh in the book and used "x" brand primers, we went home did that and came back the next day. First 5 shots I made (my buddy gets me to prove his experiments) all 5 holes overlapped at 100M.

We had a KNOWN bullet, a KNOWN type and amount of powder and a KNOWN seating depth of the bullet with a Primer that never fails.

With this current project I have an UNKNOWN bullet, these are MY design I havn't just copied something I know works, I have and UNKNOWN powder I have never worked with before (no-one I know has used it before)
An UNKNOWN amount of powder , my only guide lines are safety guide lines, I can't look this up in a book where someone has writen down what worked for them and go from there like most people do with a Lymans book lying around.
And an UNKNOWN seating depth. With NO choice in primers.
To make things worse I only have regular access to 200 yds, while this might sound ok to someone building a load for a .223 it's mostly a waste of powder for a .50 cal. I have a bullet design here THAT'S NOT SUPPOSED TO WORK UNDER 500 YARDS.
Last weekend although I was hitting the center of the target with in a 4.5" circle from 300 yds I didn't have bullet holes I had KEYHOLES for most of them. If this doesn't make sense to you picture the bullet going in to the target at a 15-30 degree angle ,,,, try throwing a dart at a board sideways
and get results; for comarison I fired 3 shots with the Hornady 750 amax's i loaded (US 869/ 250 gr), from 300 yds. 3 V bulls; definately not the news I was looking for at the end of a long day, but I made a note that it would make a dynamite short range load for the gun.
Today I got out to 900 yds. and after some quick math and a good estimate (remember, experimental everything) I make the come up from 300 to 900 , shot 1 low in the dirt, 1 high just above the black circle , adjusted and the next dozen all were in the black of the target DURING A GUSTY/WINDY (upto 20mph) afternoon. (Ask any of the O.R.A guys from mons range today about this afternoons wind.)
I have no doubts that if I shoot at longer yardages and get a calmer day the groups will shrink drastically as even in a lousy windy day they weren't too hard to keep in the black.
Powder i'm working with is US 869 as I can no longer get my favourite one H5010. I find the recoil from H50BMG to be a little excessive and the powder being an "extreme" powder is alot more expensive. My goal is not only to get a bullet built that I can produce in quality and quantity but have a load that's so easily managable (for a 50) that I can shoot a 60 rd. F-class match by the end of summer with out needing a chiropractor or surgery.

Alder PM me and I'll see about getting you out to shoot the 50, you look like your fairly local to me.

I'm gonna post a pic below here, this was from a load that took about 6 weeks of experimenting to get. 205 gr. of H 5010 with a 647 gr. Ball , pulled bullet. There's a flyer that's my fault, I flinched just before breaking the trigger when a black powder gun beside me went off with no warning.

DSC00974.jpg


M.

Keep working on'em Mike! Hell I don't know anybody local turning out bullets on a lathe. You're the first I know. Today wasn't one of them "it's a walk in the park days"... the wind was switching a lot. It was going one way the mirage going the other. There were 4 -5 minute changes out there with a 6.5 cetainly not the worst but it swtched damn fast... and it was quartering a lot. You'd put 4 minutes on and find you pulled the trigger in a let-off. Your shot was out to the left you put right wind on and it went out to the right... you'd take half off and it would still be exactly where the last shot went...
This wasn't one of them quiet days a Mons...
quite a few regulars missing but we never never really got rained on which we know stops quite a few from coming out. We got lucky in that regard.

For trying to develop a load or check bullets to try to see what a load/bullet was doing... this wasn't the day to do it...

I didn't have the balls to shoot on the targets Heinz brought out... a 3" vee at 900... not today! Heinz managed 5 I think he said...
 
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