Got the trigger group unstuck... now what about that stupid notch pin?

Grizz Axxemann

Grizz Axxemann

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I'm trying to tear down my SKS for cleaning, and to get the barrel out so I can have it welded up (the same one that caused the ruptured case mentioned in gunsmithing) and I can't get my trigger group out to get everything out of the stock. I know I'm supposed to use a punch or a bullet tip (not gonna try that one.. to scared of having the damn cartridge go off in my hand!) to push it forward, but the damn thing WON'T BUDGE. I've beat on the punch with a hammer, leaned on it with all my weight (and there's alot of that) and still NOTHING. I'm getting frustrated. I'm tempted to drill a hole into the bottom of the receiver, tap it and run a long bolt through to hold everything down.

But first, I have to get the thing apart!
 
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obviously you're just not hitting it hard enough-it is an SKS, after all, right?! Do what you must to get it out. I had the same thing happen to mine, this is how I dealt with it...make sure the control group is on safe. Put the muzzle on the gound, then hold the trigger guard in your hand(so the rifle is being held up by the guard). At the rear of the trigger group is a "button" that slides forwards. Beat on this so it slides forward along the axis of the rifle, and most of the gun should fall free of the trigger group which is in your hand. Hope this helps a little...
 
I got it. used the bayonet and bounced it off the floor a couple of times. she popped. it was just tighter than all hell. even the receiver didn't want to come out of the stock... almost felt as though the lumber swelled up on it.

To add: I notced that the notch pin is just pressed into the receiver.... think there's enough clearance to put a hex-head bolt through there instead of that pin? It might help tighten things up and help in accuracy... the only problem i could see is down at the back end of the trigger guard, where i'd probably have to weld in a nut.
 
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Grizz Axxemann said:
To add: I notced that the notch pin is just pressed into the receiver.... think there's enough clearance to put a hex-head bolt through there instead of that pin? It might help tighten things up and help in accuracy... the only problem i could see is down at the back end of the trigger guard, where i'd probably have to weld in a nut.
Click to expand...

I know a few people who have drilled & tapped a hole through the receiver & gotten rid of the spring & post.

D
 
Just be careful about shoving narrow pointy things in that hole. You could break the safety spring. You don't want anything that would go deeper than necessary.
 
Grizz Axxemann said:
I notced that the notch pin is just pressed into the receiver.... think there's enough clearance to put a hex-head bolt through there instead of that pin? It might help tighten things up and help in accuracy... the only problem i could see is down at the back end of the trigger guard, where i'd probably have to weld in a nut.
Click to expand...
Yes, I've thought of this myself actually, but reverse of what you describe. As long as the hex head doesn't interfere with the operation of the safety, you should be able to pull the trigger group latch outta the reciever, tap the hole with a bottoming tap (not sure what the ID of the hole is, looks like it'd tap out to 5/16-18 or M8x1.5) and bolt the trigger group up into the reciever. You could remove the safety lever altogether (not recommended, but it only blocks the trigger and not the hammer so it's not a particularly safe safety) to eliminate the interference issue. Or, you could use a socket head cap screw with a washer, and cut/trim the washer to fit the little cutout area at the back of the trigger guard (where the latch pin latches). I dunno, not having done it myself it's all speculation at this point :D
 
Actually, a cap srew (a bolt w/ allen head) in the proper length would probably work a helluva lot better than my previous idea of a hex head. there looks to be enough meat aft of the trigger guard to punch a nice hole with a slight offset. Only thing is, a new hole would have to be drilled and subsequently tapped into the receiver, but it just might work.
 
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