M14 lover's are lucky to have a abundance of different stocks available to customize their rifle. While there are some great options out there, most of them tend to be either too expensive, too heavy, or both. Here's a solution that YOU can do with a little time, some patience, and a few basic tools.
Note: This guide was an afterthought so no photos were taken during the modification process. But I did my best to take photos that I thought will benefit you most.
The total cost to do this job was absolutely nothing! I already had the stock unused and collecting dust in the corner, and the hardware I used was salvaged from my spare bolt/parts bins. But if you had to purchase every part it would still be ridiculously cheap.
Parts needed:
-A mossberg stock of your choosing. I put a pachmayr pistol grip on my mossberg 500 tactical "bear defense gun" so I had the ATI 6 position adjustable stock as leftover. There are a lot of different mossberg stocks available so take your pick. You could probably find one on the EE for cheap.
-Canadian Tire will have the nut, bolt, and washers that you need. If you wanted to shed some grams you could use aluminum or titanium hardware. I went with a regular steel bolt, washers, and "nylock" locking nut. The bolt length is important here so don't go with anything less than 2-1/8". 2-1/4" is better.
-A small aluminum plate was cut from 1/8" X 3/4" aluminum stock metal. However I found the 1/8" thickness to be a little on the thin side as you'll see.
Tools needed:
-7/16" wrench and socket
-Flat file and round file for finishing work
-Hacksaw
-Small drill-bit for the threaded set pins. I used pedal pins from my DH bike.
-Calipers are helpful but not necessary. A ruler would work just fine.
-Pencil
-Masking tape
Let's begin!
Start by wrapping masking tape in the general area where the existing buttstock will be cut off. Then using a ruler or calipers make marks on the masking tape where your cut will be made. Now use your hacksaw and cut off that old heavy buttstock!
Here are the measurements that I used.
Top
Bottom
Sides
It is important that you don't cut anymore off than what I did or else you won't be able to install your trigger group once your done. My cut left me with just enough space between the back of the trigger guard and pistol grip so that trigger group removal is not a problem. I advise making your cut a few millimeters longer than mine as reassurance. Also make sure that your cut is perfectly square or your buttstock will be sticking out too much to one side, too high, or too low. you can hold your buttstock up to your stock and eyeball to ensure that the cut is square.
Next, drill small holes and thread in your set pins. The locations they should go are apparent in the photos below.
Use a file to take away material in a round shape on the inside area of the stock.
Notes: My finishing job is a little rough. The extra little hole next to the set pins was a mistake. In this case I only installed two set pins on the bottom of the cut area. Next time I'll use four so that there are two on the bottom, and two on the top in a square pattern.
The set pins should be lined up to lock into the groved out area that follows around the outside of the pistol grip mounting surface. You'll see small round marks in line with the upside down "C" shape (if that helps). See photo below.
Here's what it should look like after you cut off your buttstock, file the inside round to fit the "C" shape on your pistol grip, and install the set pins.
Next, cut off a piece of your stock aluminum at 1 1/4" long. And drill a hole in it according to the photo below. This hole does not have to be exact, it's only important that it is as centered as possible.
The full dimensions should be 1/8" thick X 3/4" wide X 1-1/4" long with a hole just big enough to fit your stock bolt through.
Aluminum plate
Hardware. Note the location of the set pins in relation to the pistol grip.
Now slide the aluminum plate towards the back of the stock, hold your pistol grip up to the stock, and bolt it in place.
From the front it should look like this. Notice that my bolt was a bit too short, use a longer one then cut off any extra once your done. Also note that the aluminum plate is slightly bent, I blame that on both over tightening, and using a plate that isn't thick enough. 1/8" thick is the minimum.
Here's what it should look like after installation.
Now re-assemble your rifle and you're done! And don't forget to do a hammer follow test before firing. I advise manually hand cycling a few snap caps before firing to ensure that everything cycles smoothly.
P.S. take your rifle to a Hungry (aka tactical teacher) clinic if you're lucky enough to be able to attend one. Afterall, he's the one who encouraged me to post this guide.
Enjoy!!!
Disclaimer: The OP is not liable for any injury resulting from the use of this guide. So use at your own risk!
Note: This guide was an afterthought so no photos were taken during the modification process. But I did my best to take photos that I thought will benefit you most.
The total cost to do this job was absolutely nothing! I already had the stock unused and collecting dust in the corner, and the hardware I used was salvaged from my spare bolt/parts bins. But if you had to purchase every part it would still be ridiculously cheap.
Parts needed:
-A mossberg stock of your choosing. I put a pachmayr pistol grip on my mossberg 500 tactical "bear defense gun" so I had the ATI 6 position adjustable stock as leftover. There are a lot of different mossberg stocks available so take your pick. You could probably find one on the EE for cheap.
-Canadian Tire will have the nut, bolt, and washers that you need. If you wanted to shed some grams you could use aluminum or titanium hardware. I went with a regular steel bolt, washers, and "nylock" locking nut. The bolt length is important here so don't go with anything less than 2-1/8". 2-1/4" is better.
-A small aluminum plate was cut from 1/8" X 3/4" aluminum stock metal. However I found the 1/8" thickness to be a little on the thin side as you'll see.
Tools needed:
-7/16" wrench and socket
-Flat file and round file for finishing work
-Hacksaw
-Small drill-bit for the threaded set pins. I used pedal pins from my DH bike.
-Calipers are helpful but not necessary. A ruler would work just fine.
-Pencil
-Masking tape
Let's begin!
Start by wrapping masking tape in the general area where the existing buttstock will be cut off. Then using a ruler or calipers make marks on the masking tape where your cut will be made. Now use your hacksaw and cut off that old heavy buttstock!
Here are the measurements that I used.
Top
Bottom
Sides
It is important that you don't cut anymore off than what I did or else you won't be able to install your trigger group once your done. My cut left me with just enough space between the back of the trigger guard and pistol grip so that trigger group removal is not a problem. I advise making your cut a few millimeters longer than mine as reassurance. Also make sure that your cut is perfectly square or your buttstock will be sticking out too much to one side, too high, or too low. you can hold your buttstock up to your stock and eyeball to ensure that the cut is square.
Next, drill small holes and thread in your set pins. The locations they should go are apparent in the photos below.
Use a file to take away material in a round shape on the inside area of the stock.
Notes: My finishing job is a little rough. The extra little hole next to the set pins was a mistake. In this case I only installed two set pins on the bottom of the cut area. Next time I'll use four so that there are two on the bottom, and two on the top in a square pattern.
The set pins should be lined up to lock into the groved out area that follows around the outside of the pistol grip mounting surface. You'll see small round marks in line with the upside down "C" shape (if that helps). See photo below.
Here's what it should look like after you cut off your buttstock, file the inside round to fit the "C" shape on your pistol grip, and install the set pins.
Next, cut off a piece of your stock aluminum at 1 1/4" long. And drill a hole in it according to the photo below. This hole does not have to be exact, it's only important that it is as centered as possible.
The full dimensions should be 1/8" thick X 3/4" wide X 1-1/4" long with a hole just big enough to fit your stock bolt through.
Aluminum plate
Hardware. Note the location of the set pins in relation to the pistol grip.
Now slide the aluminum plate towards the back of the stock, hold your pistol grip up to the stock, and bolt it in place.
From the front it should look like this. Notice that my bolt was a bit too short, use a longer one then cut off any extra once your done. Also note that the aluminum plate is slightly bent, I blame that on both over tightening, and using a plate that isn't thick enough. 1/8" thick is the minimum.
Here's what it should look like after installation.
Now re-assemble your rifle and you're done! And don't forget to do a hammer follow test before firing. I advise manually hand cycling a few snap caps before firing to ensure that everything cycles smoothly.
P.S. take your rifle to a Hungry (aka tactical teacher) clinic if you're lucky enough to be able to attend one. Afterall, he's the one who encouraged me to post this guide.
Enjoy!!!
Disclaimer: The OP is not liable for any injury resulting from the use of this guide. So use at your own risk!
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