Gun Cleaners and Lube: The Best of the Bunch!

Lubriplate 105 grease- on rails
Hydrolic Fluid - on everything else and coat
G96 to clean barrel
Non-chlorinated brake cleaner to blast out and clean everything except barrel.
Red bearing grease to keep parts together when rebuilding
Fluidfilm to fog when im storing guns for while.
 
Hornady One Shot seems to do it all. Ditto Frog Lube (but if used too heavily it'll clog up).

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If I want to remove lead= Rimfire Blend
For complete removing of fouling and copper= Wipe out
But all this is used very occasionally..

But for most of the time ==BALLISTOL. Cleans safely, lubricates and protects both metal and wood.

Gilbert
 
Good barrels don't lead and are easy to maintain. Two wet patches of Hoppes #9, 20 brush strokes with a bronze brush in good condition, followed by dry patches until they come out dry and clean, done. Regular cleaning (after every range session) prevents hard to clean problems from developing. It is mainly the carbon ring in the chamber that can be problematic to remove, sometimes you just need to use JB bore paste and short stroke the chamber area.
 
Lubriplate 105 grease- on rails
Hydrolic Fluid - on everything else and coat
G96 to clean barrel
Non-chlorinated brake cleaner to blast out and clean everything except barrel.
Red bearing grease to keep parts together when rebuilding
Fluidfilm to fog when im storing guns for while.

why not brake cleaner in the barrel? thanks
 
6 years ago, I shot my SKS with corrosive ammo. Decided not to clean it with the usual hot water as I had to be somewhere. Sprayed inside and out, including bore, soaking wet with Remington
Gun Oil with Teflon. Then I forgot about cleaning it until....

Last year I lent the SKS, uncleaned, to a friend who used it in a .30 caliber miilitary rifle match, against shooters with M1s and M1As (which he won, BTW). He said it did not jam or FTF. He cleaned it after practice and match and all he said was the rifle was very dirty. He did not mention any rust. So Reminhgton Gun Oil protected by SKS from corrosive ammo residue for five years. Hehe.

So that makes me a fan of Remington gun oil. Also have Ballistol, because I heard that's what the Reich used for their small arms during WWII....good enough for me.
 
From reading all the different brands of automotive oil used on firearms, it is hard to imagine an automotive oil that would not be just fine for firearms!
 
I have been using SP3 which used to be called Gibbs on firearms and everything made of metal for years.
Disolves powder and fowling, its also safe on rubber and plastics. A friend of mine gets it state side by the case.
 
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I often use Ballistol for cleaning my rimfires at the range between different ammo types. It is good for a quick way to remove a lot of the powder residue from the bore. I use a pull through with patches. I avoid using a bore snake, which is hard to clean at the range. You can buy pull through patches or cut them from an old sheet or T shirt.



Some shooters make a pull through out of weed wacker line. One end of the required length is sharpened to allow a patch to be pierced and the other end flattened or widened so the patch won't come off when pulled through the bore.



Keep in mind that Ballistol is mostly mineral oil and isobutyl alcohol. Mineral oil will migrate easily and is not good for preventing galling. It is safe to use on wood stocks that don't have finishes such as lacquer, poly, wiping varnishes, or shellac because after time it will penetrate those surfaces and cause them to lift. It was used by the German army since before WW I as a daily cleaner and on the wooden rifle stocks that were finished with a penetrating oil that needed to be "refreshed" periodically.

For a more thorough bore cleaning I use Bore Tech's Rimfire Blend with a combination of a jag and patches and a bronze brush. It does a very good job.
 
why not brake cleaner in the barrel? thanks

Personal preference i guess. I dont want to degrease the inside of my barrels. Thats all.

And i forgot to mention that i avoid using brake cleaner on plastic as well. For plastic i blast it with G96 them use a homemade air compressor to blast out the residue. Then i relube with hydrolic oil.

Its a longer process because my 2L coke bottle take takes a while to build up pressure and it looses it quickly. So, with all metal guns i cut my cleaning time by 90% just by using brake cleaner.
 
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