Gun Kote
- Thread starter stephen492
- Start date
TSE used to carry it.
It's extremely durable in regards to rust protection. It will scratch off like any finish if you hit the gun on something.
It is easy to apply although you do need some equipment to do it or access to it.
I have a sand blasting cabinet with 120 grit aluminum oxide and a custom made stove for baking the parts.
Prep work is the most important part of refinishing.
The gun has to be completely oil / dirt free.
It's extremely durable in regards to rust protection. It will scratch off like any finish if you hit the gun on something.
It is easy to apply although you do need some equipment to do it or access to it.
I have a sand blasting cabinet with 120 grit aluminum oxide and a custom made stove for baking the parts.
Prep work is the most important part of refinishing.
The gun has to be completely oil / dirt free.
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
My understanding is the preparation of the metal to be finished is the key to success. It must be degreased absolutely, and where this is not done the finish will fail. This makes doing the work at home tricky. A gunsmith will probably use a large ultrasonic tank for the chore. If you were going to do the work on a long gun, your kitchen oven might prove to be a little on the small side. Apparently a parkerized finish is a superior surface for at least some bake on finishes to bond to.
Order it directly from kgcoatings.com, they are nice folks.
Like everyone says, prep is key. I've heard the you get best results from applying it over parkerizing; but my experience is that grit-blasting (NOT glass beads!!), then a hot water rinse (to get any dust off) then into the oven to warm it up to about 50°C, then super-light coats. You want to almost see the base metal through the first coat. Let the solvent flash-off and re-coat. I usually went 3 of those super-light coats, just enough to ensure good coverage.
Baking can be a challenge; but you can bake one end of a rifle and then flip it over and bake the other. Baking part of the coating twice doesn't hurt it.
Like everyone says, prep is key. I've heard the you get best results from applying it over parkerizing; but my experience is that grit-blasting (NOT glass beads!!), then a hot water rinse (to get any dust off) then into the oven to warm it up to about 50°C, then super-light coats. You want to almost see the base metal through the first coat. Let the solvent flash-off and re-coat. I usually went 3 of those super-light coats, just enough to ensure good coverage.
Baking can be a challenge; but you can bake one end of a rifle and then flip it over and bake the other. Baking part of the coating twice doesn't hurt it.
