Gun Wax

Just about any good furniture wax will do the job well.

If you want something that's easily reapplied, use KIWI WAX TYPE SHOE POLISH. It has a Lanolin base and soaks into the wood nice and even.

Like all wax, it will wear off, but it's very easy to touch up when needed.

I like to warm it up first before applying it to a room-temperature stock.

Works well on the metal bits too.

You don't want to apply wax, oil or anything similar UNDER THE STOCK LINE, where the metal contacts the wood.

Dem-Bart makes a product called WAXYLENE Gunstock Wax.

It used to come in different colors.

It doesn't require warming and soaks into the wood quite well, giving it a deep luster.

I like it a lot.

The finish is usually smooth and dry to the touch when it's had the final coat and stands up quite well to wear and weather. It buffs up quite well.

Other than metal parts, does your rifle have a wood or composite stock? Both of the products mentioned can be applied to just about any type of stock if you follow the instructions.

I know a fellow that uses furniture wax on his composite stock because he likes the feel of the stock with it applied and hardened properly. His stock always looks new.
 
I strictly use Renaissance Wax on my WW2 firearms and holsters, it is very high quality and used by the majority of museums for their guns. Its pricey but well worth it, you can even get it off Amazon. A small tin will last you years. I have used RIG grease on internals and externals as well for long term storage and it works very well. but I like to play with and handle my guns so I mostly use in on the internal components and Renaissance Wax on the exterior.
 
I like to warm it up first before applying it to a room-temperature stock.
Works well on the metal bits too.

You don't want to apply wax, oil or anything similar UNDER THE STOCK LINE, where the metal contacts the wood.



What is the reasoning behind this advice, please?
 
Is it better to use oil or wax ?
Or is it just different ?

Different, oils penetrate into the wood and cure making a (somewhat) permanent barrier, that may or may not be particularly pretty. Wax adds another barrier and is not permanent (as mentioned. Most furniture waxes are not particularly durable (at all) and will bloom with moisture and heat - but look good.

If you wax an unfinished stock (raw wood) you will not be able to apply any other finish without scraping and sanding. and it will need constant care ... so don't do that.

Wax is for aesthetics or a secondary layer of protection.



Just about any good furniture wax will do the job well.

Like all wax, it will wear off, but it's very easy to touch up when needed.

I like to warm it up first before applying it to a room-temperature stock.

Works well on the metal bits too.

I use carnauba based car wax for the metal bits - works particularly well for browned parts and is WAY more durable than furniture wax.



Anyone have experience using wax on stocks
and metal parts of guns ?

Recommendations ?

What are you trying to accomplish? I've used clapham's for aesthetics ... looks great.

Mother's carnauba wax for metal...

If you are looking for extra protection cuz you plan on sitting in a swamp for most of the day waiting for a duck to wander by ......... not furniture wax ;)
 
Conservators wax ( Renaissance) is what the museums use, for wood, metal etc

This is true. There was a fellow who had a long career in the wood finishing industry and posted about wood finishing on RFC for many years. He recommended Renaissance Wax. Among his contributions were the tips and precautions found here h t t p s://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/things-to-avoid-on-wood-finishes.539268/
 
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