Gunsmithing questions about a Remington Sportsman 48 Auto Shotgun

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180grainer

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Hello everyone, looking for answers to a couple of questions concerning a Sportsman 48 12 gauge. Checked the serial number and markings on the barrel to Remington's list of manufactured dates and it was manufactured March 1949. Just bought the gun and took it out crow shooting two days ago. Fired approximately 50 times,(35 crows :) ). Performed flawlessly. I then took a shot, it fired and cycled the next shell, I then went to fire again and nothing. I manually re-chocked it ejecting the one good round out and putting next in. Take another shot. First shell fires, cycles next round, and no fire. I manually eject the next round and empty the gun. I squeeze the trigger a couple of times and nothing. Fool around with it by manually re-cocking and squeezing trigger. Nothing. End of crow hunt.

I get it home and decide to try again and sure enough I hear the hammer fall with a loud click. I do it again and it works again. It was cleaned before I went. I've thoroughly cleaned it again now. Anyone have any ideas or heard of this happening with this make of gun? My original plan was to restore this gun as a tactical shotgun. However, unless I find a concrete answer and solution to this problem, I can't do it.

Second question is, I'm planning on cutting the barrel to 20 inches. I want to put in a Modified choke tube. Has anyone put in a choke tube on this model of shotgun? What make of choke? Any problems? I've heard the steal might not be thick enough to tap the barrel.

Last question is, has anyone heard of using emery cloth on the magazine tube as well as lightly oiling it with 10W30? This is a recoil operated shotgun and I've read that wiping the magazine length wise with emery cloth and then lightly coating it with oil helps the gun function better.

Thanks, I'm hoping a gunsmith might be on here with some experience with this type of gun. But anyone who's had experience with one of these shotguns please let me know what issues, if any, you had.
 
You might have been using shells that didn't have enough oomph to throw the bolt back far enough to reset the hammer.

The choke may be a problem for you because there aren't too many 'smiths that will do it, some, but not many.

Wipe the exterior of the mag tube with mineral spirits vigorously, dry it and lube with a thin gun oil.
 
Like Repeat mentioned, it sounds like more of an ammo issue than mechanical. Squeaky clean it was fine for the first few rounds but once you got a bit of dirt on it the weak ammo just didn't have the energy to function the gun.

Technically the only part of the mag tube you need to polish is the area that the barrel recoils over. Obviously you don't want a burr or tool marks diminishing the transferred energy you need to cycle the action. I'm doubtful in this case if that's the issue you have.

Iirc Wolf has spring kits. A fresh hammer spring wouldn't hurt and it's a good investment.

You don't have your region listed so hard to suggest a smith. It will depend on how much meat they have to work with but I'd bet it should be doable.
 
RePete said:
You might have been using shells that didn't have enough oomph to throw the bolt back far enough to reset the hammer.

The choke may be a problem for you because there aren't too many 'smiths that will do it, some, but not many.

Wipe the exterior of the mag tube with mineral spirits vigorously, dry it and lube with a thin gun oil.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I thought about that but the gun did the same thing when manually cocked.
 
I'd use something far lighter in grit than emery cloth on the mag tube.
10-30 engine oil may be a tad heavy in colder temperatures.
G-96 would be a better lube to use.
 
It's a long discontinued model. It's also ammo finicky. Do not be sanding the mag tube although it does need light lubrication.
 
Take it apart and check the firing pin. If the pin is broken it will line up sometimes to shoot and other times you will need to reload the same round multi times
 
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