Gunsmiths who do lots of M14 stuff
- Thread starter LTR
- Start date
I posted on the battle rifle forum about it too. All I want to do is cut it down to 18.5" or so, and put on one of the springfield muzzle brake/stabilizers. This is apparently trickier than it sounds because:
1. the barrel may be wider near the muzzle than at the cut point and the replacement brake, some say is designed to fit this larger diameter
2. it is difficult to make three grooves in the barrel so that they index exactly with the brake
3. I have also heard that the quality of the barrel is such that its strength may be lacking owing to "inclusions" and the threads won't hold.
These are the things I've been told so I was wondering if any gunsmiths actually do this. I just can't believe that this would be that difficult but the smiths that have avoided it are well known and respected.
1. the barrel may be wider near the muzzle than at the cut point and the replacement brake, some say is designed to fit this larger diameter
2. it is difficult to make three grooves in the barrel so that they index exactly with the brake
3. I have also heard that the quality of the barrel is such that its strength may be lacking owing to "inclusions" and the threads won't hold.
These are the things I've been told so I was wondering if any gunsmiths actually do this. I just can't believe that this would be that difficult but the smiths that have avoided it are well known and respected.
The barrel is indeed small in diameter behind the existing flash hider. Therefore you cannot thread it for the same diameter and have the threads hold properly. I have done a few by cutting the barrel to 18 1/2+ and then threading them for a modified .223 Vortex that is opened up to let the .30 cal bullet pass through. Of course you also use a gas lock front sight.
AA
AA
AA - Thank you for confirming. This is an interesting problem because again as you found, you would need to go with a gas ring sight.
hs - I was actually wondering about the same fix. I wonder how much material you could safely remove, and how much structural integrity the sleeve would have it was very thin, and then of course, how well you could get the whole mess to stay in place when you start shooting. For reference here is a pic of the stabilizer:
Another thing I've been wondering about is this: Springfield sells their shorter barelled scout rifles with the above stabilizer. How do they do it?
hs - I was actually wondering about the same fix. I wonder how much material you could safely remove, and how much structural integrity the sleeve would have it was very thin, and then of course, how well you could get the whole mess to stay in place when you start shooting. For reference here is a pic of the stabilizer:
Another thing I've been wondering about is this: Springfield sells their shorter barelled scout rifles with the above stabilizer. How do they do it?
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I think the sleeving thing would work, however it would take quite some time and is it worth it on a Norinco barrel. As LTR memtioned, shorter better barrels are available, Kreiger comes to mind. Then of course you would need to go with a US threaded gas lock and flash hider nut. There is lots to think about!
Cutting the splines would make for an interesting job.
The easiest approach is to use a gas cylinder lock front sight, as mentionned.
The new muzzle could be sleeved, if a particular unit was to be installed. Install the sleeve, and then thread it. Much easier to use a brake with threads appropriate for the diameter of the barrel, though.
The easiest approach is to use a gas cylinder lock front sight, as mentionned.
The new muzzle could be sleeved, if a particular unit was to be installed. Install the sleeve, and then thread it. Much easier to use a brake with threads appropriate for the diameter of the barrel, though.
