H&R Handi light strikes...

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GimpyGolden

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As title states I am having light strikes on my H&R Handi .223.
I am pretty sure I've done all I can do to get it working and I am just not having any success.
Things I've tried

-New hammer spring from Wolff springs. These are supposed to be extra power springs but wire measures same diameter as original. I ordered a 5 pack of these and have tried a few different ones but no luck.

-Polished firing pin and channel as well as clipped 1.5 coils off of return spring so it won't be fighting hammer spring as much.

-Polished hammer pivot pin

-Took hammer stop down some to get an extra .030" firing pin protrusion

-Tried hammer spur thinking more hammer mass might help but was actually a softer hit, not surprised as velocity has a greater effect on kinetic energy than mass does.

With my .223 barrel on I can get it to fire after 2-5 hits. Have tried some factory ammo and my reloads with Ginex and CCI primers, picked up some Federal primers to try today as they are known to be softer. If those work great, but they won't help issue with shotgun shell.

I have two 12GA barrels and one has a less than perfect headspace so that likely plays some roll. On that barrel I get a very shallow pin prick of a hit.
The other barrel which is headspaced perfectly has same issues. Both have been tried with Federal and Challenger mini shells as well as Federal 2 3/4" target loads as well and some 9mm with barrel insert.

I am beginning to feel if I can't get any progress with this I'll be parting it out as spares parts, stocks and barrels. I have a bunch of H&R stuff and really want to get it working.
Does anyone else have similar issues and were you able to correct them?
 
I can’t help you, but I would suggest you also post in the gunsmithing section!
 
Just to be clear, you were having issues with factory ammo AND reloads?

I have a gun that won't reliably ignite CCI primers, but factory ammo and reloads with federal primers have been 100% reliable.
 
Yes both factory and reloads with Ginex and CCI primers.
I got some Federal primers now and will spin up a few rounds to test. Even if those go bang it does nothing to sort the shotgun barrels and shells not going off.
 
Thanks, I've been all over that board and tried everything in that thread except taking mass off the hammer. Kinda reluctant to do so since a replacement isn't easy to come by.

I will use a piece of drill rod and make up a longer firing pin and see where that gets me.
 
Yes sir.
My transfer bar assembly all seems to be working as it should. After trigger pull and keeping it pulled I can cokc the hammer enough to peek in there and see and the bar is there with I'd guess no less than 75% coverage of the pins base.

Maybe I will try the re pro transfer/striker assembly because at this point I think I've tried everything else.
 
GimpyGolden said:
Yes sir.
My transfer bar assembly all seems to be working as it should. After trigger pull and keeping it pulled I can cokc the hammer enough to peek in there and see and the bar is there with I'd guess no less than 75% coverage of the pins base.

Maybe I will try the re pro transfer/striker assembly because at this point I think I've tried everything else.
Click to expand...
The transfer bar must not have any impediment and must move freely.
Lubrication of the transfer bar bearing surfaces can reduce the impact of the firing pin in cold weather.


With the barrel removed, pull the hammer back and check the movement of the transfer bar with the trigger (which moves the transfer bar into firing position) pulled so the transfer bar is in firing position. It should be absolutely free to move with no hint of friction. Lubrication, Burrs, bent or peened pins can reduce the movement of the transfer bar. Even the pressure of the trigger on the bar can have effect on firing pin strike
 
VICIOUS said:
Could the top of the hammer be too long preventing the full weight of the hammer from striking the transfer bar before it hits the frame?
Click to expand...
Measuring firing pin protrusion with the transfer bar in position between the hammer face and the firing pin may answer some questions.
 
Gaad, this thread brings back some frustrating memories.

Isn’t there a spring used that needs to be installed in a certain position in order for it to hit harder?
 
Dump Shoot said:
Not sure I understand your "75% coverage", here's mine (llion/CBA frame), as per your check m.o.


View attachment 845557
Click to expand...
I didn't think my T-bar sat as high as your's but I was mistaken, it looks the same.
20241110_105616.jpg

10x said:
The transfer bar must not have any impediment and must move freely.
Lubrication of the transfer bar bearing surfaces can reduce the impact of the firing pin in cold weather.


With the barrel removed, pull the hammer back and check the movement of the transfer bar with the trigger (which moves the transfer bar into firing position) pulled so the transfer bar is in firing position. It should be absolutely free to move with no hint of friction. Lubrication, Burrs, bent or peened pins can reduce the movement of the transfer bar. Even the pressure of the trigger on the bar can have effect on firing pin strike
Click to expand...

My T-bar moves very freely and maybe even too much slop. I read on GBO forum about peening the pin the flipper sits on to reduce this end play. I think instead I will order a new transfer bar assembly.

VICIOUS said:
Could the top of the hammer be too long preventing the full weight of the hammer from striking the tranfer bar before it hits the frame?
Click to expand...

I filed down top of hammer "stop" to allow it to sit deeper and give further firing pin protrusion.

10x said:
Measuring firing pin protrusion with the transfer bar in position between the hammer face and the firing pin may answer some questions.
Click to expand...

I get .0620" which from what I've read is well above the .0400-.0500" range.

Lodi said:
Replace this spring. This spring being weak or damaged may have been the source of the problem.
Click to expand...

If this spring is stronger it "fights" the hammer spring more and causes less firing pin travel. It is there to pull the firing pin back after releasing trigger to allow action to open. As well it keeps the FP from flopping around and possibly causing a slam fire if action is closed quickly or possibly when dropped.
 
GimpyGolden said:
If this spring is stronger it "fights" the hammer spring more and causes less firing pin travel. It is there to pull the firing pin back after releasing trigger to allow action to open. As well it keeps the FP from flopping around and possibly causing a slam fire if action is closed quickly or possibly when dropped.
Click to expand...

The factory didn't screw up, they've been using this design for some time now.

You want the hammer to transfer energy to the FP, the spring puts the FP in a position to receive the energy. The hammer/spring has plenty of oomph to overcome that itty-bitty spring.
 
Lodi said:
The factory didn't screw up, they've been using this design for some time now.

You want the hammer to transfer energy to the FP, the spring puts the FP in a position to receive the energy. The hammer/spring has plenty of oomph to overcome that itty-bitty spring.
Click to expand...
I wasn't arguing they did.
My FP still sits fully rearward against the transfer bar.
I have two different Handi's and they both have different return springs so there are variances even from the factory.

I am trying to work through things systematically to get this reliable. It didn't work before trimming that spring and it does work a little better since, so my experimenting hasn't caused or worsened the issue.

Apparently there is a limit to what the oomph of the hammer spring can overcome, I just need to figure out what and where that issue is.
 
GimpyGolden said:
...there are variances even from the factory.
Click to expand...

There are a lot of variations, pay attention to your serial number and the part numbers for that serial number.

There are rifle frames and shotgun frames, there might have been a transitional version but I don't recall. The FP type might be an issue, but the additional 0.030" protrusion you provided should be piercing primers rather than misfires. If your barrels are not original to that frame there might be issues.
 
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