Handloading Savage Cartridges

rodagra

rodagra

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There have been quite a few questions and comments here about loading and forming the four Savage cartridges.
The current edition of Rifles Handloader (Dec. 2005 no. 238) has the best "all in one" write up I've ever seen. It's written by John Barsness, and he's had them all---and formed brass for the obsolete or hard to get ones. He disputes some of the info in the Manual of Cartridge Conversions, and gives detailed advice on the best way to go.
The article spans pages 84 to 96, with only one of those pages devoted entirely to advertising, so it covers a lot of ground.
The article is definitely a keeper---for me anyway.:D
 
I just love how they say you can use the 220 swift for 303 conversion, the first part of reforming I can understand, but how are you supposed to thicken up the rim to spec as well?
Rifle magazine is somewhat hard to find around home but it sounds like it's worth tracking down. Thanks for the heads up rodagra!
 
With the .220 swift brass--you set it up to headspace on the shoulder--works quite well in most rifles for single loading, but in some rifles the extractor slips over the rim and the round won't eject.

44Bore
 
I have been playing on the lathe with 303 Brit brass, just about have it down to a science.
I have some 220 brass as well and plan to play a fireforming game sometime this winter. The brass is brand new, should I anneal it before I build some cream of wheat loads?
 
i lost link to info how to change 30-30 to 303s -i need lenght of the sleve i have to make out of 40 S&W brass.i know it sounds funny but (i hear) it works.
does anyone have that link?
 
I have heard of the sleeve trick too but have no reference to it. I was even told to just wrap tape around the base of the case. It could be just me but these seem to be alright if you just want to shoot the piece of brass once. I know the pressure is not that high in the old 303 but the case expansion would be quite concentrated at the edge of the tape or sleeve. Would this not create a separation just the same as no shim at all. I suposse it would help the accuracy by aligning the case more concentically in the chamber.
What does one do if this sleeve sticks in your chamber or resizing die? Not much fun to pull out.
If you do get to try it Donor, please let the rest of us know how it goes for you. I will muck with the 303 brass on the lathe a bit more and relay that info.
 
I just shove the 30-30 into the chamber with the Savage 99 lever, and it pushes the shoulder back.

This is not a good idea, because the case is loose at the base, but I have done it.
 
I have done it too Clark. Some of the cases take it okay and a few don't. Generally, I would not want to load these cases for use again, a close look at the case shows extensive stretching around the entire circumference leaving what I would consider a dangerously thin wall.
The loose 30-30 case may not align in the chamber so when the cartridge is fired, the bullet gets to start in the rifling a bit askew.
 
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