Hard to close bolt

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huntingfish

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Hi! I have a Zastava M70 bolt rifle (modern M98 clone). I have ordered a timney trigger for it and I am in the process of installing it.

I had to remove a tiny bit of metal in the sear slot to remove a contact point between the trigger assembly and the sear slot. This allowed the trigger to function: I can open the bolt and close it*. When the safety is ON, I cannot pull the trigger and when I remove the safety, a light pull of the trigger fires the rifle.

When I close the bolt though, that last 1/8" to close the bolt completely is pretty hard. I cannot use my thumb to push the bolt, I have to use the palm of my hand to get that last 1/8" of travel and then I can rotate very easily the bolt clockwise to lock it in place.

I re-read the timney installation instructions. I do believe that the sear slot has been enlarged enough...but I don't know for sure if something is binding somewhere. I was wondering if it could require me to remove even more material (lengthen the sear slot a bit more towards the front of the rifle, as I have been doing all along, or perhaps the back?). Either than, or there is a sear engagement screw on the trigger assembly. I was wondering if I would need to give that screw a bit of slack? I'm hesitant since it seems to be marked with a tiny dot of glue to know if someone moved it from the factory position.

I'd appreciate any input.

David
 
Sounds like you are just cocking on close. So sear needs to move forward. You could also just grind the cocking piece to reduce the cocking but that will also reduce the pinfall distance which can lead to accuracy issues and ftf. I think Mauser design has a lot of pinfall but you will need to measure to decide.
 
If the issue didn't exist before then the sear is probably too wide by a few thou. Put sharpie on the bolt and pay attention to where it gets scraped off.
 
Might help you to understand that a Mauser 98 is "mostly" #### on open, but the "full" cocking distance occurs as the bolt handle is rotated down. So the movement of the bolt handle "down", is going to cam the bolt body slightly forward - while the cocking piece is being held back by the trigger and sear - that is "finishing" the cocking.
 
guntech said:
Gunsmiths are wonderful people...
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Indeed they are. They hold great knowledge something we sometime take for granted (guns). I'll always have huge respect for them.

I installed a Timney on a swedish mauser (m96 in 30-06) and that rifle has serve me well for many years. Always had great performance from it compared to the stock (military with wayyy too much creep) trigger. I thought I'd set up my new rifle (in 300WM) with one as well, but it's less of a drop-in replacement than I had hoped.

It gives me a great sense of accomplishment to setup my rig just the way I want. It's part of the year-round hunting prep ;-)

After reading your signature, I can't help but think you might know more than what your original comment contributed to this thread though. I'd love to hear any tips and tricks you might have regarding the problem that I am trying to correct. I mean...this is why we are reading the #gunsmithing forum, right?
 
cosmic said:
Put the old trigger on and compare... Why on earth did you change it in the first place?
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Like I said, I wanted a timney on it. I guess I don't have a real good reason, other than COVID...fewer expenses...wanted to pimp up my new rifle to match the trigger quality I had before in my swedish mauser.

I did swap the old trigger in to compare. Despite the fact that it cocks on close, there is less resistance with the old trigger.
 
huntingfish said:
Indeed they are. They hold great knowledge something we sometime take for granted (guns). I'll always have huge respect for them.

I installed a Timney on a swedish mauser (m96 in 30-06) and that rifle has serve me well for many years. Always had great performance from it compared to the stock (military with wayyy too much creep) trigger. I thought I'd set up my new rifle (in 300WM) with one as well, but it's less of a drop-in replacement than I had hoped.

It gives me a great sense of accomplishment to setup my rig just the way I want. It's part of the year-round hunting prep ;-)

After reading your signature, I can't help but think you might know more than what your original comment contributed to this thread though. I'd love to hear any tips and tricks you might have regarding the problem that I am trying to correct. I mean...this is why we are reading the #gunsmithing forum, right?
Click to expand...

OK - Its obvious this is going the DIY/internet route. Heck, you might even save 40$. You need to put your thinking cap on. I said to put your old trigger on and compare. Did you look at the relative sear positions? Did you measure the bolt stretch? Did you do the drop test? Have you cleaned the firing pin channel?
BTW - The reason people are recommending a gunsmith is due the fact that playing around with triggers can cause major grief, and that this really shouldnt be attempted by the average firearms enthusiast. As such, encouraging you can give a person a sense of liability.
 
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My only advise is to always alter the cheap piece; if alteration is required and there is an option.
 
Leeper said:
My only advise is to always alter the cheap piece; if alteration is required and there is an option.
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Great advice.

Cosmic and others: I went ahead and went to drop off the rifle to a gunsmith for a proper installation. I'm still puzzled at what would cause the bolt to be so hard to close though. Hopefully the gunsmith will be able to shine some light on that!

David
 
cosmic said:
Put the old trigger on and compare... Why on earth did you change it in the first place?
Click to expand...

Very good question; my M70 has a great trigger, but they are a little "counter intuitive" to set. Some very good instructions on line (better than the ones that came with the rifle).
 
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