from what I can tell its a .69Cal smooth bore. Rust has ruined most markings but what would be a rough Geuss on value of it to sell. Would it be worth it to have it professionally restored or would it be better to leave as is. Thanks in advance
Harpers ferry model 1842
- Thread starter 7.62xfun
- Start date
from what I can tell its a .69Cal smooth bore. Rust has ruined most markings but what would be a rough Geuss on value of it to sell. Would it be worth it to have it professionally restored or would it be better to leave as is. Thanks in advance
Don't know what you mean by having it professionally restored.
It is probably in better condition than it appears to be.
It needs to be gently cleaned and its condition stabilized.
This would not include wire wheels, rust removing chemicals, etc.
It is probably in better condition than it appears to be.
It needs to be gently cleaned and its condition stabilized.
This would not include wire wheels, rust removing chemicals, etc.
Are you sure it is an original? I have seen a few repro Besses that were in this condition just because they were left in a damp basement. Before any restoration, make sure all the markings point to a real antique and not a mal-cared for repro.
- Location
- Algoma region
I agree , a couple hundred dollars and this could be a excellent project.
Slow ...REAL SLOW and steady with copious oil and light steel wool.
Slow ...REAL SLOW and steady with copious oil and light steel wool.
Im going to admit to doing this right away, i bought a vetterli for 30 dollars yesterday and steel wool just wasnt cutting it so i gave it a fast rub with a wire brush on a bench grinder. Not enough to make shiney metal but enough to remove most of the crap. What exactly is the big issue witn doing that. I know taking it right to shiny bare metal is bad, but restoring things is a new hobby for me and i dont really know tne proper way to do things.
- Location
- Algoma region
If you get this old musket, use steel wool, it may take awhile but thats ok....The wire wheel on a bench grinder is too fast and might do more harm then good.
A wire wheel with very, very fine wire, used judiciously, can do good work. The face of the wheel does not touch the work; the side of the wheel is used with a wiping action. The wheel is broken in first. The average hardware store wire wheel will remove rust, and will usually leave a wire wheeled surface.
There is an element of skill required to use a properly prepared, appropriate wire wheel. A lot of harm can be done in a remarkably short period of time, otherwise.
Same goes for the use a Dremel tools.
There is an element of skill required to use a properly prepared, appropriate wire wheel. A lot of harm can be done in a remarkably short period of time, otherwise.
Same goes for the use a Dremel tools.
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DEFINITELY not a wire wheel. You will do considerable damage to what could be a very nice antique. Fine steel wool and oil or a penetrating type fluid (google ed's red) work well. It is probably an excellent candidate for electrolytic cleaning. All you need is a battery charger, water, some washing soda and a few bits and pieces. I have had excellent results with it. In my opinion, better results than steel wool and oil.
With this being as old as it seems, if i do end up getting it i will use wool, the vetterli turned out fine when i used the wheel, removed the hard grime but left the metal a dark brown, ive restored a few newer guns useing it to strip them and even very agressive to bare metal wire wheel useage never left a mark, i have two cooeys that look like theyre brand new, not sure if the wheel is soft or just thin. But ill be sure to keep you updated.
That has not been my experience. It softened active rust so it could be easily removed with steel or bronze wool, but did not damage bluing or browning, which I believe are different oxides of iron. Technically, "softened" is probably an incorrect term since I beleve it changes the chemical composition of the rust.
