Has anyone used "DRY GRAPHITE POWDER"?

Some people claim that it can be a bit abrasive. Not sure if I believe that its bad enough to worry about or true in the first place.

I would consider using a dry lube in very cold or dusty conditions otherwise usually stick with a drop or 2 of oil.
 
I use it the arctic. Works great. I don't use it in high volume guns, I use Special Forces Dry lube then, with Otis regular on the really high friction areas.

A while ago I put several brands in little cups outside and Otis seized up the least, so that's what I use. It must have been -40 or so. All exhibited "freezing" traits to some degree. Windchill was higher as well, but I don't think that effected test as I had them in a protected porch.

Back to graphite... It doesn't seize, and it's used in door locks. The abrasives of it has to be minuscule, and unless you were planning on using it on "F" class... I wouldn't worry.

Some guns specify DO NOT USE though, like the XCR. I couldnt get an answer why.
 
Has anyone used dry graphite powder in and around actions? Was thinking of using on my Sears Model 8C. Any information would be helpful.

Yes in my semi's and in locks, never had a problem.
Really noticeable in a lock how much smoother it works.

I've switched back to oil just use less than I use to.
 
I just bought some spray graphite dry lube to try in my 10-22. Its getting gunked up too fast with G96. Hoping I can go more rounds with this graphite spray. I thought microscopically, graphite was spherical and acted like little ball bearings? Or am I wrong?
 
I don't like it much... I tried the spray and noticed it was much "dirtier" (streaks and overspray) as well as felt a little sticky compared to oil.

Perhaps in Arctic like climate it is better, but, for range plinking oil for me :)
 
So far so good with the spray graphite that I'm using on a 10/22, but I would say the jury is still out on whether it can take more than 500 rounds and still cycle flawlessly. Too much rain and work lately so I haven't been using the gun enough.
 
I just bought some spray graphite dry lube to try in my 10-22. Its getting gunked up too fast with G96. Hoping I can go more rounds with this graphite spray. I thought microscopically, graphite was spherical and acted like little ball bearings? Or am I wrong?

I just give the bolt/receiver a quick wipe without adding anymore G96 and it seems to keep on working.

Also in -50 G96 seems to still work. I've shot in -30 with no issues (very short range trip I might add, since I hate shooting in that type of cold). I've cleared, loaded and racked my duty pistol in -50 after the pistol was exposed for a prolonged period of time (holster). No problems other than the mits (Arctic kit issue) making my hands feel like clubs.
 
Tried it decades ago in my Cooey 64. Didn't like it as the powder residue still mixed in with the graphite and gummed things up.

Breakfree CLP is the way to go now.
 
I just give the bolt/receiver a quick wipe without adding anymore G96 and it seems to keep on working.

Also in -50 G96 seems to still work. I've shot in -30 with no issues (very short range trip I might add, since I hate shooting in that type of cold). I've cleared, loaded and racked my duty pistol in -50 after the pistol was exposed for a prolonged period of time (holster). No problems other than the mits (Arctic kit issue) making my hands feel like clubs.

I'd like to just give the bolt and receiver a quick wipe, but with a 10-22 receiver inside an Evolution stock, its a teardown to get the bolt out and wipe it clean of residue. I do like G96 and I agree that its great in cold weather.
 
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