So you did everything, and then went to a heavier spring and "Forced it". I've had a few 1911's that were well fitted but sunk under a normal "16-18 LB" spring and came alive with a heavier spring. This also carried over in fail to go into battery 1911's. Comment. I know that heavier springs cover up fitting problems that should be cleaned up (Ramp, Hood, to slide etc.), but after that it seems that the heavier springs cleaned it up ( With shock buffs to make up for it). Aside from comp guns, weigh in. I appreciate it cause I've got another one that`s acting up.
Heavy Springing your 1911
- Thread starter gravel
- Start date
There are several on bench tests to determine if a gun is properly fitted and if it is safe. All of them must be passed. Your 1911 guns which were well fitted but sunk under a normal 16-18 lb springs would fail at least one of these tests and very likely more than one. This would tell you where the problem is but will not tell you how to fix it and what tools you'll need to do it. Solving your particilar problem by playing with recoil springs and buffers is like administering wrong medication to a misdiagnosed patient. Don't do it, let somebody who knows the 1911 gunsmithing look at your gun. It'll probably cost you a little but it will be money well spent.
Good answer, I have to admit that I was kinda hoping someone would weigh in with a bushing remedy. Over the years I have
tinkered with my 1911's and know most but not all of the hitches associated with reliability just from surfing the web. Your right for sure
that a heavy spring is a poor remedy for a fitting problem. For what its worth I have solved most of my cycling issues by replacing or
dealing with tight bushings. I should have called my thread a quiz. I've seen so many 1911 folks frustrated by problems that had an easy solution.
tinkered with my 1911's and know most but not all of the hitches associated with reliability just from surfing the web. Your right for sure
that a heavy spring is a poor remedy for a fitting problem. For what its worth I have solved most of my cycling issues by replacing or
dealing with tight bushings. I should have called my thread a quiz. I've seen so many 1911 folks frustrated by problems that had an easy solution.
Pietro Beretta
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Ontario (G.T.A.)
I would think a heavier spring would be good when using +P hot ammo....no???
Like Hornady +P 230 gr. @ 950fps ....or 185/200 gr. @ 1000fps
Like Hornady +P 230 gr. @ 950fps ....or 185/200 gr. @ 1000fps
The gun will tell you when the spring is too hard. If you switch to too strong a spring for the ammo you're using the gun will eject the empties weakly and fail to slide lock on the last shot. So by trying to "fix" some other issue you can produce a new problem if you try to use too strong a spring. Which leads to the idea that spring tuning should be limited to adjusting the required function FOR the spring and not as a way to cover up some other issue.
On the other hand if the gun still cycles, ejects and slide locks on the last shot just fine with the heavier spring it suggests that the other spring was actually too soft for the job. And that wasn't a good thing either.
On the other hand if the gun still cycles, ejects and slide locks on the last shot just fine with the heavier spring it suggests that the other spring was actually too soft for the job. And that wasn't a good thing either.
