Help building wood stand to hang my reloading presses while not in use.

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adrenaline681

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Hello, I purchased the Inline Fabrication Quick-change System and now I need to figure out how I'm going to store the presses while they are not in use.

I've never done any woodworking in my life so I dont understand what type of wood or what thickness I should use. I just know that probably hardwood is what I need to use since the reloading presses are pretty heav

My idea was to build something out of 2 pieces of wood. One would be the base and one would be the backside where the inline fabrication hangers are attached to.
To join both pieces of wood I would some glue and long screws from the back. For more support, I would put L-Brakets (marked in red)

The hangers (marked in black) come with 3 screws 1.5" long.

The back wood needs to be around 3ft wide so my 3 presses and vice fits and about 1ft tall to clear the bottom of my longest press.

The wood would be around 2-3" thick. Not sure about what type of wood.

I live in a rental apartment so I cant set up a proper reloading area and mount heavy things to the walls etc. This is why I want to build something that if I move I can just move around into my new apartment.

Do you guys think this is the best option? What type of wood should I use, what thickness?

Many thanks!!!!!


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That would take up a lot of space.

Something like this with crossbeams for the docks may be better instead of those crates.
Make the feet as wide as possible.
3aeb02bfecb5ef068715679681ea676d.jpg
 
The weight of the presses if very offset from the center of gravity, it will take very long feet to balance, I think I would end up with something as big as what I originally designed. No?
 
Looks like a good idea although im not sure if my woodworking skills would be up to the task :-D

What type of wood would be ideal for this? Pine? and what thickness? Will 2" will be enough?
 
To do your design on the cheaper and simpler side, use an 8ft long 2x12. Cut two pieces at 3 feet long. Mount the back board on TOP of the base board (opposite of how you have them arranged in the image - we will make up the strength later.) Use ordinary wood glue and clamps (or screws if you dont have clamps - but still use glue!) to affix the boards squarely together.

Now cut your remaining two feet of 2x12 in half and place each piece into each end. Scribe a 45 degree line from top corner of back board to front corner of base board across this new end brace piece and cut. Glue these into place at either end. This will provide all the support necessary to keep the backer board from tilting forward under load.

Next step is to ditch the screws and find some appropriately sized small bolts, washers, and nuts from your local hardware store and use those to mount the brackets to the frame.

If ive done my math correctly, this should be 5 total cuts made and 3 glue joints. Now if you hate the look of rounded edges of dimensional lumber, find a buddy with a tablesaw or jointer (or handplane) to simply trim the bullnose edge off - now its fancy softwood lumber. Finally, sand / stain / paint as you wish.
 
adrenaline681 said:
Here is an update for whoever is interested, I added a couple of extra things like a shelf and some parts to hold my Lee turrets and redding dies.

Jwl9qti.jpg
Click to expand...


Good job. Hope you used glue or outside screw plate for feet to vertical sides.

I would suggest, if I may, green masking tape on the powder measures for writing powder type, Lot#, and charge weight it is set for.

Empting the powder back into the jug would be a good idea to prevent damaged to plastic, as I found out.
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...is-happen-simple-fix-but-big-mess-to-clean-up
 
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