Help c WW1 Lee Enfield Bolt Stop

[Sly Old Fox]

I have a venerable old WW1 which has been "sporterized" years ago for a hunting rifle due to the light weight barrel.

My problem is that for some reason, I can't depress the slide that keeps the bolt head from turning to allow bolt removal. Here are two images:

I have done everything but use a H-D wrench to depress it with no success.

Thinking that if I removed the trigger guard and trigger assembly, I could then remove the forestock, I tried this and was not able to get the stock off.

I would appreciate any suggestions.

 

[louthepou]

1. remove the bolt that's holding the band found mid-barrel (bolt found under the forend, likely at the tip since it's sporterized)
2. Remove the large and small bolts holding the trigger guard, and remove the trigger guard.
3. Remove the forend by moving the back portion out first, not the front portion! (you'd damage the forend). You may need to tap with a rubber mallet or something like that on the rear part of the forend (say, on the sides of the charger portion) to make it move.
4. You'll then have access to the screw that holds that stubborn part. Likely needs a good cleaning. Anyways, once there, clean everything, the rifle will be quite happy.

Lou

 

[Winchester-1897]

is this the No.1 mkIII we are talking about?

 

[louthepou]

is this the No.1 mkIII we are talking about?

Yup, according to the pictures. The No4 Mk1 has a press-down thing, larger, for your finger to fit on. This Mk3 thing just offers a spring-loaded resistance, so you just "snap" the bolt head upward to rotate it.

Incidently, it's good to know that if the metal of this part isn't tired, it can be removed and slightly, gently bent to offer more or less resistance.

 

[H Wally]

is this the No.1 mkIII we are talking about?

Yep, Like lou said - biggest problem is not finding all the screws, followed by there being gunk underneath that release spring. My enfield sporter was a bit fussy the first few times I stripped it down, make sure you dont damage the thin reciever wood where it's tight against the reciever when you're prying it off.

 

[Winchester-1897]

Yup, according to the pictures. The No4 Mk1 has a press-down thing, larger, for your finger to fit on. This Mk3 thing just offers a spring-loaded resistance, so you just "snap" the bolt head upward to rotate it.

Incidently, it's good to know that if the metal of this part isn't tired, it can be removed and slightly, gently bent to offer more or less resistance.

That is what I figured, some of them are a little resistant and just need a little more pressure to push it up in place to the position where it can be removed.

seems he may be more fixated on pushing down the thing majig to remove the bolt.

 

[John Sukey]

Have skinned a knuckle more than once popping that bolt head up against spring pressure. And it IS a spring, Not a spring loaded lever Ya just got to PUSH the bolt head up.

 

[albayo]

Enfield Problems

If you unscrew the butt stock bolt and the forestock will probably come off.

I have found on Lee Enfields if the butt stock bolt is put in without the washer it is forced up against the back of the stock. You can easily damage the fore stock if you try to remove it by force.

Try that and see what happens.

 

[cantom]

If you unscrew the butt stock bolt and the forestock will probably come off.

I have found on Lee Enfields if the butt stock bolt is put in without the washer it is forced up against the back of the stock. You can easily damage the fore stock if you try to remove it by force.

Try that and see what happens.

Before taking that good advice.. some or most No 1 MKIII rifles have a square shaped nose on the buttstock bolt. It locks into a receptacle on the rear of the forend. If you try to force the buttstock bolt out with extreme pressure or an impact driver while the forend is in place, you will split the forend badly.

If everything holding the forend in place is removed (band, nose cap, screw that holds the mid barrel band, trigger guard) and it still won't wiggle down and off, you might try slightly tightening or loosening the buttstock bolt a couple of degrees either way, in case the square protrusion is partially rotated out and thus bearing on the sides of the socket in the rear of the forend. Walk lightly here...

 

[Sly Old Fox]

My old SMLE and the Bold Stop - Problem Solved.

I have a venerable old WW1 which has been "sporterized" years ago for a hunting rifle due to the light weight barrel. My problem is that for some reason, I can't depress the slide that keeps the bolt head from turning to allow bolt removal.

Thanks to those who responded, I have solved the problem. Lou gave me a complete procedure to take-down and others added some suggestions. Winchester -1897 hit the nail on the head when he said, I seemed fixated on depressing the steel spring rather than just forcing the bold head up. The light turned on.

I gave the head a tap up with a rubber mallet and the problem was solved.

When I did take out the bolt, the head was found to be a medium and I measured 0.006" headspace, said to be about max for case lie. As I only intend to shoot cast unsized 311334 with or without a gas check, I see no problem.

Here are new images of the rifle:

Again, thanks to those who posted.

 

[louthepou]

Keep the questions and stories coming!

 

[smellie]

AND it's Canadian marked!

Worth restoring, one would think.

Most of mine like cast bullets but still get their best with 180 Sierras.

 

[cantom]

Are those C Broad Arrows on the left side of the barrel and receiver? If so, as was said, worth restoring with full wood and bands!

Again, thanks to those who posted.

[/QUOTE]

 

[Sly Old Fox]

My Old Bubbaed SMLE

AND it's Canadian marked!

Worth restoring, one would think.

Most of mine like cast bullets but still get their best with 180 Sierras.

Yes there is the broad arrows in C yet the bolt # does not appear to agree with the action and barrell. Yet, the rifling is not bad at all.

I would restore with the forends and furniture if they were available. I must have a-one-on-one with Lou.

Where the unit rondel with the info in stock should appear, there is just a plug.

Again, many thanks men and I am starting a mea culpa as as a L-E former Bubba!

Watch for it.