Help compare Ruger .44 "Hawks"
- Thread starter foxfire235
- Start date
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
What might help in the short tem is to change your shooting technique. Hold the gun in your strong hand, as close to in line with your forearm as possible. Wrap your weak hand around the grip with the fingers of your weak hand over the fingers of your strong hand. Rather than attempting to shoot he gun DA, pull back the hammer with the thumb of your weak hand, then lay the thumb of your weak hand above the thumb of your strong hand so that it points upward, along the frame over the cylinder release, then when the sight picture is correct fire.
Looks like the front screw that holds in your rear sight might be damaged or missing, judging from the picture.
With heavy 44 loads, I find the narrow Pachmyer grips uncomfortable. I also found that the Ruger factory grips which have the wood panels set inside the rubber grip were more punishing than a solid wood grip.
The Red Hawk measured 27/8" from the back strap to the face of the trigger. The Smith measures 31/8". My SBH is out for tweaking, but it is a shorter reach than either.
Looks like the front screw that holds in your rear sight might be damaged or missing, judging from the picture.
With heavy 44 loads, I find the narrow Pachmyer grips uncomfortable. I also found that the Ruger factory grips which have the wood panels set inside the rubber grip were more punishing than a solid wood grip.
The Red Hawk measured 27/8" from the back strap to the face of the trigger. The Smith measures 31/8". My SBH is out for tweaking, but it is a shorter reach than either.
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ditch the pachmayr grips and get either the Pachmayr "professional' model or the Hogue monogrip, both which have open backstraps. This shortens trigger reach significantly, and the hogue has a smaller circumference as well where your middle finger and thumb meet.
if your trigger is the target model (wide and serrated), it helps DA shooting if you file the serrations off and narrow the trigger.
if your trigger is the target model (wide and serrated), it helps DA shooting if you file the serrations off and narrow the trigger.
- Location
- Southeastern Michigan
Boomer, if you shoot revolvers as you say and then switch to pistols you will end up with a nice set track marks from your slide.Regards, Richard
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
Boomer, if you shoot revolvers as you say and then switch to pistols you will end up with a nice set track marks from your slide.Regards, Richard
The revolver and pistol require different techniques, however, on my 1911, the thumb of my strong hand rides high on the safety and I never notice the slide. I was just trying to help the gal use, with less difficulty, what she already had.
RGV, good call. From my computer screen I couldn't tell if the Pachmyers in the pic left the back strap exposed on not, but if not, then yes they should be replaced with an open back grip. Actually, I have a small set of set of N frame grips without the filler behind the trigger guard, but they would need an adaptor to build up the space between the top of her finger and the frame. I haven't seen any of those for years.
- Location
- Southeastern Michigan
Most people that shoot revolvers, not pistols, fold their off hand thumb across shooting hand just behind the web. Regards, Richard
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
Most people that shoot revolvers, not pistols, fold their off hand thumb across shooting hand just behind the web. Regards, Richard
And some lock one thumb over the other, but again, I was attempting to resolve the problem of someone who might have to shoot a revolver, that is much too large through the grip frame, quickly and in defense of her life. The suggestion admittedly is imperfect, although I believe it could work in this case. It is unlikely that Foxfire's weak hand would be able to wrap around her strong hand with enough reach to cross the web of the strong hand with her thumb. Hopefully FF can aquire a new gun or better grips before she goes out in the field.
Is that your Revolver Foxfire?
If it is....you could look at cutting back the barrel, tuning the trigger and custom grip work like others have suggested.
Cutting back the barrel won't make it easier to shoot heavy loads but it will reduce your daily load a little.
If you don't like shooting the .44mag with heavy loads maybe you could get it ported while it's at the shop.
Some gun paint after the modifications should help with maintenance.
The Redhawk frame is probably pretty close in size to your Mod 29 and the Superblackhawk is not much smaller...Small and .44mag don't really go together.
The length of pull for the trigger finger is the same with both Ruger's when the guns are cocked.
If it is....you could look at cutting back the barrel, tuning the trigger and custom grip work like others have suggested.
Cutting back the barrel won't make it easier to shoot heavy loads but it will reduce your daily load a little.
If you don't like shooting the .44mag with heavy loads maybe you could get it ported while it's at the shop.
Some gun paint after the modifications should help with maintenance.
The Redhawk frame is probably pretty close in size to your Mod 29 and the Superblackhawk is not much smaller...Small and .44mag don't really go together.
The length of pull for the trigger finger is the same with both Ruger's when the guns are cocked.
Get a round butt N frame, with Hogue stocks, if sticking with a DA is important to you. If not, try a Ruger red frame SA in 41 mag. - dan
Thanks again guys for all the suggestions. The gun in the photos is owned by my organization and can't be (easily) modified. I'm planning on buying my own gun that I can take in the field with me now, and in the future. I think I may just have to try some of these other's out before making a final decision.
