I have finished trigger job, quite the satisfaction i must admit. I was slow at it, very slow as it was my first, took me 3 hours total. Trigger group was already dissassembled, so tune, polish, cut coils, reassemble, 3 hours total. This trigger does not have as much ''prep'' as my other tuned trigger done by someone else. There is still some at least, i like having prep and theres enough to satisfy me.
Trigger breaks @ 2# exactly, not an eight more or less, right on 2#. The trigger reset is quite nice too, there is a definite click to the reset. I recommend this to anyone wanting a match trigger out of their 10/22, cost praticly nothing too!
In the pictures to come, the picture on the left is polished tuned, and to the right is the factory part untouched, for reference.
The tools i used for the job : vise, 1000 grit automotive sandpaper, dremel, digital caliper, mini longnose plyers,cleaner (i used mpro gun cleaner), lots of light
I will comment pics where details can be given.
Underneat the hammer. Polish. Polishing method was same for all the tune, vise gripped sandpaper to the anvil part of the vise, passed it a few times in a very level way so not to change angle on things, cleaned with cleaner and inspect to check if it shines enough. For underneat the hammer i rolled the hammer as i sanded it.
When i show these pics it'S just to show areas to polish. Not a lot of effort is needed on the 1000 grit sandpaper, being on an anvil helped a bunch to put some pressure on it tough. I usually stop once it'S mirror like.
Showing the hammer notch grind from the top.
I put my hammer in the anvil, exposing only a fraction of the notch at a time. I would check with a level to make sure i only had tiny bits exposed at the time. Dremel with cutting wheel was used to take off material. I then remeasured hammer on side of table with caliper until i reached the measure on my modified hammer. I unfortunatly did not take this measure as a reference, but taking hammer out is easy and can measure and take a pic for reference if there is any interest.
I will call this plunger spring. 1 coil exactly was taked off. The portion of the spring sitting on the plunger has been squeezed. So putting spring back on plunger was real hard, i had to twist as i put it in. To take a coil out, i used mini longnose in the spring to hold it tight, and simply used the dremel cutting wheel so snap the coil off.
I will call this sear spring, i will research and modify later if i made a mistake. 1 Coil exactly was taken off.
I am no pro at this and this might not be the ultimate way around this, but did a copy/paste of a job did on mine. Shot 100 rounds thru it and very crisp and reliable so far.
Trigger breaks @ 2# exactly, not an eight more or less, right on 2#. The trigger reset is quite nice too, there is a definite click to the reset. I recommend this to anyone wanting a match trigger out of their 10/22, cost praticly nothing too!
In the pictures to come, the picture on the left is polished tuned, and to the right is the factory part untouched, for reference.
The tools i used for the job : vise, 1000 grit automotive sandpaper, dremel, digital caliper, mini longnose plyers,cleaner (i used mpro gun cleaner), lots of light
I will comment pics where details can be given.
Underneat the hammer. Polish. Polishing method was same for all the tune, vise gripped sandpaper to the anvil part of the vise, passed it a few times in a very level way so not to change angle on things, cleaned with cleaner and inspect to check if it shines enough. For underneat the hammer i rolled the hammer as i sanded it.
When i show these pics it'S just to show areas to polish. Not a lot of effort is needed on the 1000 grit sandpaper, being on an anvil helped a bunch to put some pressure on it tough. I usually stop once it'S mirror like.
Showing the hammer notch grind from the top.
I put my hammer in the anvil, exposing only a fraction of the notch at a time. I would check with a level to make sure i only had tiny bits exposed at the time. Dremel with cutting wheel was used to take off material. I then remeasured hammer on side of table with caliper until i reached the measure on my modified hammer. I unfortunatly did not take this measure as a reference, but taking hammer out is easy and can measure and take a pic for reference if there is any interest.
I will call this plunger spring. 1 coil exactly was taked off. The portion of the spring sitting on the plunger has been squeezed. So putting spring back on plunger was real hard, i had to twist as i put it in. To take a coil out, i used mini longnose in the spring to hold it tight, and simply used the dremel cutting wheel so snap the coil off.
I will call this sear spring, i will research and modify later if i made a mistake. 1 Coil exactly was taken off.
I am no pro at this and this might not be the ultimate way around this, but did a copy/paste of a job did on mine. Shot 100 rounds thru it and very crisp and reliable so far.
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