Yes, and while transporting it to the gunsmith, keep it well away from you just in case it decides to spontaneously combust or explode. You just can't be too careful is my motto.
Help! I dented a critical surface on my handgun slide!
- Thread starter Crosswind
- Start date
Yes, and while transporting it to the gunsmith, keep it well away from you just in case it decides to spontaneously combust or explode. You just can't be too careful is my motto.
From what the OP described, sounds like he was trying to punch out the roll pin that's holding the extractor in place. If the OP can't get the slide to slide back fully to be able to lock it back into place with the takedown lever, I'm gonna go out on a limb and say there's a better chance of Liberals becoming pro-gun than an OOB incident.
You can try using a small hobby metal file that has flat sides and a slight curve at the tip so that you can use just the tip of it at an angle, enough so the back end of the file doesn't make contact with the firing pin safety plunger assembly.
Another option is to use one of the Dremel grinding/sharpening wheels and manually use it like a file. You'll need the larger diameter ones that's about 3/4" to 1". You should be able to remove the burr in a few minutes.
Third option is to cut a thin strip of 400grit sandpaper (the width of the stick) and fold it over the tip of a popsicle or tongue depressor stick then carefully work the burr down. Finish it up with some 800grit after. My preference would be silicone carbide for SS.
OP, you can buy the Sig half-circle pin punch tool for removing the extractor roll pin from Brownells or grind a flat spot on a 3/32" pin punch. I was told that those pins were to be replaced with new ones once removed. Use the right tools for the job...
You can try using a small hobby metal file that has flat sides and a slight curve at the tip so that you can use just the tip of it at an angle, enough so the back end of the file doesn't make contact with the firing pin safety plunger assembly.
Another option is to use one of the Dremel grinding/sharpening wheels and manually use it like a file. You'll need the larger diameter ones that's about 3/4" to 1". You should be able to remove the burr in a few minutes.
Third option is to cut a thin strip of 400grit sandpaper (the width of the stick) and fold it over the tip of a popsicle or tongue depressor stick then carefully work the burr down. Finish it up with some 800grit after. My preference would be silicone carbide for SS.
OP, you can buy the Sig half-circle pin punch tool for removing the extractor roll pin from Brownells or grind a flat spot on a 3/32" pin punch. I was told that those pins were to be replaced with new ones once removed. Use the right tools for the job...
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The guys have pretty much covered the options for what to use.
My two bits... A Sharpie marker or similar marker pen can be used to mark over the area and will allow you to more clearly see the exact area that is interfering. The raised area will be wiped of the ink, when the parts are fitted together, or attempted to be, and it should be pretty easy to see.
I have used a LOT of 320 grit Wet or Dry paper on various shapes and sizes of sticks and other backers, to blend out divots and gouges on aircraft structures and components. Think lots, then move your hands, eh.
It sounds like a ten second job for a needle file, to me. You should have a set anyway.
I have a couple dozen different needle files around, ranging from a really expensive set of Grobet File Co. ones, to some really cheap Chinese PA stuff, they all have their uses. The PA ones are cheap enough that you can afford to butcher them in to what shape and size you need at the time.
About the only real advice on those, is to skip the cheapo diamond grit ones.
Have fun!
Cheers
Tre
My two bits... A Sharpie marker or similar marker pen can be used to mark over the area and will allow you to more clearly see the exact area that is interfering. The raised area will be wiped of the ink, when the parts are fitted together, or attempted to be, and it should be pretty easy to see.
I have used a LOT of 320 grit Wet or Dry paper on various shapes and sizes of sticks and other backers, to blend out divots and gouges on aircraft structures and components. Think lots, then move your hands, eh.
It sounds like a ten second job for a needle file, to me. You should have a set anyway.
I have a couple dozen different needle files around, ranging from a really expensive set of Grobet File Co. ones, to some really cheap Chinese PA stuff, they all have their uses. The PA ones are cheap enough that you can afford to butcher them in to what shape and size you need at the time.
About the only real advice on those, is to skip the cheapo diamond grit ones.
Have fun!
Cheers
Tre
It's Gunnutz .... where even the smallest perceived issue can result in a gun inexplicably blowing up.
Seriously, just use a needle file and revive the high spot, take it to the range and shoot the crap out of it. End of story.achtanelion
Regular
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- Edmonchuck
Use a burr file. To make one take an ordinary file, and run it flat over a stone so you take the tops of the teeth off. It cuts what sticks up, but no more.
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Guys, it'll go much faster if he uses either a 5" angle grinder, or a bench grinder! Git 'er dun!!!
Joking! Don't do that! This is a tiny job... don't use a coarse grit, and don't use anything with a motor...those will ruin it in one second. Remember, grit is the number of granules per square inch of area... so the larger the number, the more refined the grit, the smoother the finish will be.
Since this is on the slide rails though, maybe you are able to post a picture here of the offending burr? This would enable us to give better advice about just what tool is best for the lowest risk to your prized handgun.
personally I think I'd take a fine (400-600 grit or higher number) sandpaper (make sure its for metal, not wood as its a different kind of granule), and cut off a small piece maybe 1/4" square, and glue that to a popcicle stick. That way, the area being abraded is very short, even if using the slide as a guide to keep it straight.
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Guys, it'll go much faster if he uses either a 5" angle grinder, or a bench grinder! Git 'er dun!!!
Joking! Don't do that! This is a tiny job... don't use a coarse grit, and don't use anything with a motor...those will ruin it in one second. Remember, grit is the number of granules per square inch of area... so the larger the number, the more refined the grit, the smoother the finish will be.
Since this is on the slide rails though, maybe you are able to post a picture here of the offending burr? This would enable us to give better advice about just what tool is best for the lowest risk to your prized handgun.
personally I think I'd take a fine (400-600 grit or higher number) sandpaper (make sure its for metal, not wood as its a different kind of granule), and cut off a small piece maybe 1/4" square, and glue that to a popcicle stick. That way, the area being abraded is very short, even if using the slide as a guide to keep it straight.
really? Fire out of battery? That's a little thin, don'tcha think?
Would you honestly take it to a gun smith because you got a tiny burr/nick in the slide? You wouldn't just go grab a knife sharpening stone (pocket sized), a nail file, some sandpaper and a block of wood or metal, or *something that will polish/stone/grind/sand* and just clean it up?
You'd be able to tell if it was cleaned up because the slide would now function... how would you get an out of battery discharge doing that?
i assume, then, that you must also clean your gun after every round, for fear that the "carbon build up" will cause an OOB-discharge? And you take it to the gunsmith for every one of those post-single-shot cleanings, because it would be far too risky to do it yourself?
and you call an electrician in to change the lightbulbs, lest you risk getting a shock?
not trying to be a douche here, but really? (actually i am kind of being a douche.... ah well)
It does alter the file, but it will then only cut any material that stands proud of the surface, like a burr raised around a dent. Thus the name, "Burr File"
Knocking the teeth off a file like this also gives them a new life and a far nicer finish, when used as a lathe file. Again, it works because the part is not flat. Teeth still have a sharp edge, just a different edge than the one they started out with.
Cheers
Trev
I agree, but, the rest of the guys reading can afford the time to learn a new trick or two.
As to not working with your files...maybe, maybe not. Gotta choose the tool to fit the purpose. Sometimes, you gotta make the tool...or adapt it a little... If you have a 6 or 8 inch medium or Bastard file that is a it too used up, but has not been chucked out yet, try stoning off the tops of the teeth to a nice even surface and try it on the a couple center punch divots or for deburring or shaping an edge on the lathe.
Whassit they say, when the only tool you have is a hammer, all problems look like nails, or some such? Better to have a few tools to choose from, and the chance to pick between them.
Given how little hands on time most guys are getting in school, if any, as far as shop basics, does it really come as a surprise to see what seems like really basic questions like this coming up, as well as wildly varying answers?
Cheers
Trev
Pick up a set of miniature jewellers/machinist files from Princess Auto in the little red vinyl roll. Their cheap and handy for all kinds of jobs and are an assortment of all file shapes and multi and one sided.--Dieseldog!
These will get it done in a heartbeat. The 600gr are very cool to work with.I have used mine on gun work on numerous occasions. They do a great job on steel. Use them dry.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=70614&cat=1,43072,43089
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http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=70614&cat=1,43072,43089
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