Help me diagnose my trigger pull

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Hey everyone,

I've recently started doing some dry fire training with my 700s. One has the oldschool walker trigger, and the other an xmark pro. I have the walker tuned to where it breaks pretty clean, with a pull weight I would estimate at around 4lbs. The xmark pro's pull weight is a bit heavier, but it too breaks pretty clean. I can shoot both rifles pretty well as is, but both will be getting trigger upgrades very soon. In the mean time I'm doing what I can with them. The thing I've noticed in my dry fire training is when I break the shot, my reticle is jumping, very consistently in the 2 o clock direction of the point of aim. I'm familiar with the basic fundamentals of a good trigger pull, but am unsure if I am executing them properly. Is this something I am doing wrong? Or is this a symptom of heavy trigger pull weight? I've only fired rifles with good triggers a few times, so I don't have a great data point for a comparison. I realize this is a hard thing to diagnose from the small amount of information I'm able to provide, but I'm hoping maybe someone has some wisdom of some things I can watch out for. Any input would be appreciated. Cheers.

Mike
 
Put more finger on the trigger. Use the second pad of your trigger finger on the trigger and see where the crosshairs end up when the shot breaks and report back.
 
This may help..
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Hey everyone,

I've recently started doing some dry fire training with my 700s. ..... in my dry fire training is when I break the shot, my reticle is jumping, very consistently in the 2 o clock direction of the point of aim. I'm familiar with the basic fundamentals of a good trigger pull, but am unsure if I am executing them properly. Is this something I am doing wrong? Or is this a symptom of heavy trigger pull weight? I've only fired rifles with good triggers a few times, so I don't have a great data point for a comparison. I realize this is a hard thing to diagnose from the small amount of information I'm able to provide, but I'm hoping maybe someone has some wisdom of some things I can watch out for. Any input would be appreciated. Cheers.

Mike

Before you necessarily blame yourself, try loading a fired case with a a spent primer, the next time you dry fire. Do you still see the reticle jump in the same manner?

(when you dry fire on an empty chamber, the firing pin stops by hitting the inside of the bolt body, and things can rattle and shake a fair bit. Whereas when firing a loaded round (and also when you have a fired case in the chamber), the firing pin runs into a primer, and there isn't nearly the same amount of mechanical shaking)

If this "cures" your problem, then don't worry, you don't have a problem, it's just your gun/scope bouncing around when it is dry-fired with an empty chamber.
 
It is about tension in your trigger hand. The heavier the trigger the tighter you must grip the stock. With a loose hand your trigger finger will pull right thru until it hits a stop and gives the gun a jiggle. Having a backlash adjustment set up is not a cure for this and in fact if you know how to pull a trigger you don't want this. Guys that know trigger control can shoot a light or heavy trigger with the same results.
 
Before you necessarily blame yourself, try loading a fired case with a a spent primer, the next time you dry fire. Do you still see the reticle jump in the same manner?

(when you dry fire on an empty chamber, the firing pin stops by hitting the inside of the bolt body, and things can rattle and shake a fair bit. Whereas when firing a loaded round (and also when you have a fired case in the chamber), the firing pin runs into a primer, and there isn't nearly the same amount of mechanical shaking)

If this "cures" your problem, then don't worry, you don't have a problem, it's just your gun/scope bouncing around when it is dry-fired with an empty chamber.

I tried this out today, and firing with a case in the chamber all but eliminated it. Who'dathunkit!? Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Before you necessarily blame yourself, try loading a fired case with a a spent primer, the next time you dry fire. Do you still see the reticle jump in the same manner?

(when you dry fire on an empty chamber, the firing pin stops by hitting the inside of the bolt body, and things can rattle and shake a fair bit. Whereas when firing a loaded round (and also when you have a fired case in the chamber), the firing pin runs into a primer, and there isn't nearly the same amount of mechanical shaking)

If this "cures" your problem, then don't worry, you don't have a problem, it's just your gun/scope bouncing around when it is dry-fired with an empty chamber.

I tried this out today, and firing with a case in the chamber all but eliminated it. Who'dathunkit!? Thanks for the suggestion.

Ganderite showed me this trick 22 years ago and I have used it a few times since then; thanks, Ganderite!
 
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