Help me out with my M305 ...

T

Tikka223

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I need the Norc fan club to help me out with my M305. It's new to me and the serial number starts with 2009, I bought it off the EE and have put 40 rounds through it thus far. All is well but I bought it as a tinker project and that's exactly what I've started doing.

My to do list (it already has a NM spring guide, a USGI rear sight, a USGI fiberglass stock, and I believe the gas system has been "unitized"):

1) I really don't like the rough / pitted metal finish on the gas block so I've decided to take that with some emery cloth and a dremel. You can see the results of my efforts in the pictures. My question: Is it possible to get this metal looking nice or is it just poor quality steel? I've since given it a coat of black Krylon to see if that will help make it look better. I'm waiting for it to dry as I type this.

2) I'd like to tighten up the NM flash hider as it is a tad loose but I think I've figured out how to do this as I removed the flash hider to Krylon the barrel and Norc front sight.

3) I now have discovered a problem: the nut at the end of the gas block (that I assume closes up the gas block and allows access to the piston) will not come loose, even with a ratchet. Is this normal?

4) Is it a stupid idea to go ahead and emery cloth the rest of the action (not the bolt) in the hopes of smoothing out the rough metal and tooling marks? The pitting is only on the gas block and on that second block attached to the barrel that acts as a guide for the op rod.

Thanks!

Pics:

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That nut....yes it is normal if people do not go thru due diligence ,that nut is supposed to get its threads greased or anti-sieze then torqued to 125 inch/lbs. The pitting is the worst I have seen.

How you want it to look is totally up to you.
 
Get a nicer looking gas cylinder and send all your parts off to Barrett at arma coat for a nitron bath ... Gets media blasted then nitron dipped. Killer results and jet black
 
the serial number starts with 2009,

You have a keeper :)
Seems to be a different story with some of the later models.

Enjoy.
 
yomomma said:
That nut....yes it is normal if people do not go thru due diligence ,that nut is supposed to get its threads greased or anti-sieze then torqued to 125 inch/lbs. The pitting is the worst I have seen.

How you want it to look is totally up to you.
Click to expand...

How do you suggest that I remove it without damaging the rifle?
 
Close the valve. Put it muzzle down and try some penetrating oil.

Or

Try alternating hot and cold. Use a heat gun to heat it up A BIT then use some of that dusting spray to chill it down
 
There seems to be a difference in quality compared to the newer ones........A bit like a nice vintage wine, theres good years and bad years.
2011 onwards the quality seems to have diminished somewhat.
Not slagging the new guns......but ya have to admit the standards dropped.

Just sayin' :)
 
Squirt some penetrating oil on the joint and inside the piston area. Use a six (hex) socket on a 3/8" drive ratchet. Then firmly secure the rifle receiver. Click the ratchet one or two clicks clockwise on the table and using a rubber mallet or something, give the ratchet a good smack. That should free it. When you re-assemble, it is a good idea to use a little anti-sieze compound, as someone has already mentioned. Don't put on too tight. 125 in/lbs is not much. I hand tighten and have never had this problem with mine.
 
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