A local dealer has about 20+/- very greasy mosin nagant 7.62x54 for $150. Seam to be in good+ condition. Can anyone that is familiar with them give me some tips on picking the best one? The bolt on all of them seams pretty sloppy when pulled all the way back but smooth and tight when halfway to closed. Is that normal for them? Should I take a micrometer with me and pick the tightest one?????
Help me pick out a Mosin Nagant from local dealer
- Thread starter FPS
- Start date
PerversPépère
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Shawinigan (Quebec)
No, slop is the nature of the beast.
The only thing important on a Mosin is the "floating" bolthead. As long as the bolt is within specs for headspace (which is rarely off on a Mosin) you're good to go. Perhaps measure the firing pin protrusion, just in case, but for the most part, if the barrel is good and the chamber not corroded, you can reasonably expect a good shooter, some more than others, but all will keep on functioning even in really bad environment.
PP.
The only thing important on a Mosin is the "floating" bolthead. As long as the bolt is within specs for headspace (which is rarely off on a Mosin) you're good to go. Perhaps measure the firing pin protrusion, just in case, but for the most part, if the barrel is good and the chamber not corroded, you can reasonably expect a good shooter, some more than others, but all will keep on functioning even in really bad environment.
PP.
- Location
- Smithers, B.C.
Hello,
My suggestions is this:
1. See if the bolt fully locks down. If it does, should be ok. Inspect the bolt head for any wear or damage.
2. Check year and manufacture. The pre-war, WWI era ones were all good quality for the most part. 1942-45 I have seen be of poorer wartime manufacture. Look for SA markings on the barrel near the receiver, if it has one, grab it. It has been in Finnish service and they really did a good job on making the rifles fit for service. Also, inspect the muzzle. See if it has a wide opening and is drilled back. Try to choose one without this. As well, inspect the barrel for pitting/darkness.
3. Wood: If it's grungy, dirty and cruddy, it's still ok. It's Russian surplus for Lenin's sake!
Cheers,
D
My suggestions is this:
1. See if the bolt fully locks down. If it does, should be ok. Inspect the bolt head for any wear or damage.
2. Check year and manufacture. The pre-war, WWI era ones were all good quality for the most part. 1942-45 I have seen be of poorer wartime manufacture. Look for SA markings on the barrel near the receiver, if it has one, grab it. It has been in Finnish service and they really did a good job on making the rifles fit for service. Also, inspect the muzzle. See if it has a wide opening and is drilled back. Try to choose one without this. As well, inspect the barrel for pitting/darkness.
3. Wood: If it's grungy, dirty and cruddy, it's still ok. It's Russian surplus for Lenin's sake!
Cheers,
D
My first requirement beyond basic functionality, is the bore. I want a bore with no pitting, no frosting and bright with good sharp rifling. After that I just look for the best available finish on both metal and wood.
If the bore is filled with cosmo you will have to clean it to tell what its like. Some shops aren't too keen to have you do that.
I bought my last at Tradex. It is a 1928 octagonal receiver refurb, appears to have both new barrel and stock, all matched and the bore sparkles. I bought it sight unseen, just told the guys at Tradex what I wanted and I couldn't be happier with it.
If the bore is filled with cosmo you will have to clean it to tell what its like. Some shops aren't too keen to have you do that.
I bought my last at Tradex. It is a 1928 octagonal receiver refurb, appears to have both new barrel and stock, all matched and the bore sparkles. I bought it sight unseen, just told the guys at Tradex what I wanted and I couldn't be happier with it.
Look on the EE, Del Selin's has one that I've seen for $29 more. It's already clean and in VG condition. Factory FTR. Go for the better rifle.
By dirty, do you mean FTRed, filled with cosmolene? Or, a bunch of dirty, dinged and mismatched stuff out of Africa or the far east?
If you need pics, go to the Tradex site and while you're there, check out a couple of the other banner dealers as well as some of the stuff on the milsurp EE. Don't limit yourself on such an availabe commodity.
By dirty, do you mean FTRed, filled with cosmolene? Or, a bunch of dirty, dinged and mismatched stuff out of Africa or the far east?
If you need pics, go to the Tradex site and while you're there, check out a couple of the other banner dealers as well as some of the stuff on the milsurp EE. Don't limit yourself on such an availabe commodity.
They're all wonderful. Packed in grease is good. They were refurbed in the same factory that manufactured them. You can plink all day and its big enough to shoot a moose up to 200 yards with open sights.
WHo says hunting and shooting is expensive? its a lie. It won't get any more inexpensive than this.
WHo says hunting and shooting is expensive? its a lie. It won't get any more inexpensive than this.
They looked to be in nice shape, action closed smooth/tight. There is some greasy oil all over any steel. The only real things that concerned me was the slop in the bolt when all way back (which some above mentioned is normal) and the muzzel looked to be newly machined on the front. I didn't get a chance to look at the bore yet but if it is drilled back, I assume that will dramatically decrease the accuracy? They are $150 taxes in, out the door. I assume if I got one at Tradeex it would be around $250 by the time it got to me in NB so saving $100 is pretty tempting. I still want an accurate shooter so in the end I guess $100 is worth a couple inches per 100 yards.
The cut back crown or counterbore as it is commonly known is not something to be wary of. The Soviets did this when a muzzle/crown was worn and damaged. Having a rifle counterboard is much, much better then having one that isnt but needs to be. The CB was done during refurb. Most of these rifles have not been shot after refurb. Chances are the CB will provide a like new crown.
Now that we have a bit more information, that is a very good price. The rear slop is normal for any bolt action rifle. As for counterbore, there are a lot of 1903 Springfields and more than a few Mausers that are counterbored and are fine for accuracy.
Time to pick up a beginners hand loader's set as well. The 7.62x54 milsurp ammo won't last much longer.
Time to pick up a beginners hand loader's set as well. The 7.62x54 milsurp ammo won't last much longer.
I have bought two from the "greasy batch" so far
When I went to my local store I asked if it would be ok for me to push a patch through the bores. It was worth it I got the "hex" reciever with the best bore. I think that once they understand at your store that you are not a tire kicker and will buy one of the rifles they will let you poke out the bores. Just don't go on a saturday when gun stores are packed. Have fun. and bring paper towels and wear an old shirt these rifles seem like they were dipped in cosmo.
When I went to my local store I asked if it would be ok for me to push a patch through the bores. It was worth it I got the "hex" reciever with the best bore. I think that once they understand at your store that you are not a tire kicker and will buy one of the rifles they will let you poke out the bores. Just don't go on a saturday when gun stores are packed. Have fun. and bring paper towels and wear an old shirt these rifles seem like they were dipped in cosmo.
Bore is everything. I had to choose between 2 at the gunstore. One had a good stock, but a crappy, pitted bore and the other one had a gouged up peeling stock and a pristine bore. I picked the latter, and boy was I happy to find out after a bit of research that I snagged a 1944 Tula ex sniper! (shoots cloverleafs at 100 meters).
(shoots cloverleafs at 100 meters).I was sure that would put a target on my back for some insults, but where else could I get a good shooting sporter for that price? There seams to be thousands of them around.
If it makes you feel better, I have a 1900 Krag 6.5x55 that I decided to leave original. I was going to have it drilled for a scope, but it is in very good shape, (contrary to what I thought until I cleaned it up) it shoots much better than many newer guns I have and there is not many left around my area anymore.
Same situation
Glad you posted this thread! I am in the same boat, my local dealer has a batch of Mosins as well. $159.00 at my store and you get the bayonet and sling etc. The rifles all seemed to have good stocks will have to check the bores and bolts tho. Is there any specific markings to look for on the receiver?
Glad you posted this thread! I am in the same boat, my local dealer has a batch of Mosins as well. $159.00 at my store and you get the bayonet and sling etc. The rifles all seemed to have good stocks will have to check the bores and bolts tho. Is there any specific markings to look for on the receiver?
Hello,
My suggestions is this:
1. See if the bolt fully locks down. If it does, should be ok. Inspect the bolt head for any wear or damage.
2. Check year and manufacture. The pre-war, WWI era ones were all good quality for the most part. 1942-45 I have seen be of poorer wartime manufacture. Look for SA markings on the barrel near the receiver, if it has one, grab it. It has been in Finnish service and they really did a good job on making the rifles fit for service. Also, inspect the muzzle. See if it has a wide opening and is drilled back. Try to choose one without this. As well, inspect the barrel for pitting/darkness.
3. Wood: If it's grungy, dirty and cruddy, it's still ok. It's Russian surplus for Lenin's sake!
Cheers,
D
The ones at the dealer here are all 1942 - 1945. Would you pass up on buying one there for that reason? I took a better look and some have been counter boored and some not. When you close the bolt it seame to lock down good but if you push down a bit more, the bolt floats up and down. Maybe I'm just being too picky and should just buy a piece of history.
