I'd like to know a valid reference or what to use for my Anschutz .22 magnum,model 1516,made in Germany stock restoration project?I tried searching the net without any success yet.Thank you in advance for your expertise or advice helping me putting my rimfire project into its original condition as much as I can...
Help needed determining if I should use a stain,oil or shellac for my Anschutz...
- Thread starter NBBLACKBEARGUIDE#1
- Start date
Pretty sure they used a simple wipe on varnish, maybe with a bit of a tint.
I refinished a 1418 earlier this year using Tru-Oil. It's nicer than the factory finish, any of the common hand rubbed oil finishes will be if you take your time. If you want 100% accuracy though it might be hard to do. I couldn't find exactly what they used on the net.
I refinished a 1418 earlier this year using Tru-Oil. It's nicer than the factory finish, any of the common hand rubbed oil finishes will be if you take your time. If you want 100% accuracy though it might be hard to do. I couldn't find exactly what they used on the net.
Although I don't know what "they" would have used originally but I agree with using a wipe on oil. It's very easy to apply; wipe it on with a rag, wait about 20min, wipe off excess, leave to dry for a day and repeat until you get the look you want.
I find using shellac a pain in the @ss, sticky mess and trying to not leave brush marks.
I would suggest the "Sam Maloof" oil finish. You can mix it up yourself with products readily available from your local hardware store. Equal parts of boiled linseed oil, semi-gloss polyurethane and tung oil. For a gunstock I would suggest using a "spar" polyurethane for a more durable/outdoor finish.
This has become my "Franks Hot Sauce" for finishing woodworking projects because I put that sh!t on everything.
As an extra step for the final coat, but not necessary, Maloof would add some flakes of beeswax and melt it into the mix by warming everything on a double boiler...careful around an open flame with the oil.
I find using shellac a pain in the @ss, sticky mess and trying to not leave brush marks.
I would suggest the "Sam Maloof" oil finish. You can mix it up yourself with products readily available from your local hardware store. Equal parts of boiled linseed oil, semi-gloss polyurethane and tung oil. For a gunstock I would suggest using a "spar" polyurethane for a more durable/outdoor finish.
This has become my "Franks Hot Sauce" for finishing woodworking projects because I put that sh!t on everything.
As an extra step for the final coat, but not necessary, Maloof would add some flakes of beeswax and melt it into the mix by warming everything on a double boiler...careful around an open flame with the oil.
If you're interested in stock restoration -- that is, restoring it as much as possible to its original condition and finish -- that means a lacquer finish on 64 action sporters. If you are intending to refinish the stock -- to put a new finish on the stock -- you are free to use the finish of your choice. A lot of refinishers like Tru Oil because it's readily available and is easy to use. Other products include wiping varnishes such as most products labeled as tung oils and danish oils and wipe on poly finishes. Which one to use will depend on availability and personal preference. All will work satisfactorily.
In any case, the first step is to remove the old finish. The lacquer on the 64 sporter stocks can be done with lacquer remover (a lot of refinishers use old t-shirts, socks, etc. soaked in lacquer remover and wrapped around the stock, especially in areas such as checkering where the old finsih may be difficult to remove. Alternatively, if you can get paint remover that has methylene chloride it too will do the trick. Note that this kind of paint remover may no longer be available and the replacement products may not be as effective (I haven't tried newer ones so have no experience with them.)
Once all the original finish is removed, remove dents and dings by steaming with a wet cloth and iron. Sand as needed, being careful around checkering and not to remove wood unnecessarily. The finish can be applied on the wood or a stain or dye can be used to alter the colour of the wood.
Thank you so much for your response! It's kindly appreciated and you did an awesome job with your project!.
At the end of the day, I choose to lightly sand the stock and then applied one coating of a "spar varnish,clear finish", usually used for boats,spaw,decks,etc...
I used that one to preserve the initial color of the rimfire. I let it dried for 36 hours, then I taught to re-sand two minor spots and realize it was a mistake after applying the varnish only to those spots... lesson learned!
I had to restart the project by sanding the stock and did applied one coating late afternoon yesterday.
It's drying right now and I will wait a few days before touching it... I did it that way and I probably didn't follow all the recommandations procedures but it turned out ok so far...
I'm very pleased with it so far and I will post some pics while doing it and after it's all completed.
I have posted pictures on Pinterest of my restoration project;
Anschutz model 1516 Cal .22 Magnum Made in Germany.
At the end of the day, I choose to lightly sand the stock and then applied one coating of a "spar varnish,clear finish", usually used for boats,spaw,decks,etc...
I used that one to preserve the initial color of the rimfire. I let it dried for 36 hours, then I taught to re-sand two minor spots and realize it was a mistake after applying the varnish only to those spots... lesson learned!
I had to restart the project by sanding the stock and did applied one coating late afternoon yesterday.
It's drying right now and I will wait a few days before touching it... I did it that way and I probably didn't follow all the recommandations procedures but it turned out ok so far...
I'm very pleased with it so far and I will post some pics while doing it and after it's all completed.
I have posted pictures on Pinterest of my restoration project;
Anschutz model 1516 Cal .22 Magnum Made in Germany.
