Help with a broken stock?

DragonFire

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
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Location
mid Canada
I dropped my Rem 700 BDL(06) :eek: last week and cracked the stock all the way around the rear of the trigger guard. It wobbles pretty bad. Any suggestions on fixing this problem aside from buying a new stock. Suggestions greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

DF:D
 
You can try pinning it with toothpicks and carpenters glue,I don't know how many rifles I've fixed with this technique.It's strong and durable and quite easy and it might go un-seen under the trigger guard.
If you could post some pics of the crack,I(we) might be able to help you out.
 
Check out e-Bay. There are tons of 700 stocks there up for auction.

CGN is even a better! Post a WTB in the parts place. What are you looking for? Syn. or walnut?



SC...........................
 
Crazy glue ( the gel type, not the runny liquid stuff ) does a great job. Glue joint is actually stronger than the surrounding wood. 2-part regular epoxy ( NOT the 5- minute stuff - it isn't waterproof ) also works very well. You will have to match the broken parts closely when you bond them, or, if not completely separated, force the glue/epoxy all the way into the joint by spreading the crack. Figure out some way to "clamp" it all together for at least 24 hours. Be careful of the finish & clean any glue/epoxy off the woodwork immediately.
 
Spread the crack a little and use a syringe to inject any cyocyanate based glue of your choice. Work in a ventilated area. Clamp the glued joint for 24 hours and wipe off any excess that seeps out while it's still wet. Once dry, buff the seam line with steel wool. This WILL work, but if it were mine and a Remmy 700, I'd just get a used stock. They are so cheap anyhow! ALOT of guys buy BDL's for the action to build a wanna be sniper and go to a synth stock like a McMillan and basically give away the factory wood.

Or you can do what I do with remmys and get a custom stock carved, but that gets pricey FAST.
 
I have used the very thin stuff from CA Glues, ie "Hot Stuff", available from Lee Valley and some industrial suppliers. Very, very strong. If the crack is very narrow, the thin stuff goes in well. I used this to repair a crack through the wrist of my Marlin 1895. I'd run some lacquer thinner into the crack first to deal with any oil in the wood. (Paste wax around the crack area will help to protect the finish. And do wear disposable rubber gloves to protect your hands.) Hot Stuff sets up VERY quickly once it is exposed to air. Capillary action will draw the glue into the crack, then clamp quickly.

If the crack is wide enough, regular bedding epoxy, such as Acraglas, can be introduced with a toothpick. I've heard of thinning it with toluene (?), but I would want to ask Brownell's about this first as you don't want to "break the back" of the glue by diluting it too much.

:) Stuart
 
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