Help with a build.

jnewing

jnewing

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Hey there all, so while I've been shooting for a while I'm looking to get into some longer ranges (for me) currently I've been shooting 300 to 500 yards (using my .223) it's been a lot of fun however I'm wanting to go further (it's really addicting). So I'm currently looking at two options that I'm tossing around.a

I'm just looking for input on this from someone with more experience than myself. Are there any clear advantages of going with option 1 or 2? Option 2 is a little more budget conscious.

Thoughts? Feedback? I just don't know :/ (First world problems)


Option 1 (Build it myself... kinda)
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Savage 10 FCP-SR - 20" (I have this rifle already)
Cadex Chassis - Lite Strike or Field Strike (haven't decided yet)

This option I would be using .308 as that's what this rifle is already in.

Option 2
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Ruger Precision Rifles

This option I could go .308 or 6.5CM
 
Are you going to shoot competition? Like f-class? Or just general plinking?

If f-class, you need to decide which class you're gonna shoot. .308 and .223 are classed together, while something like a .284 Winchester or 7mm wsm are left in open division. There are no muzzle brakes allowed in f-class.

If general plinking, get the 6.5cm. The .308 really gets blown around past 800 or so yards. Last f-class match I shot at, my .308 was bested by a .260 Remington at the 900meter mark.
 
In my opinion, you haven't even started reaching the maximum distances for the cartridges you have.
Do you currently reload? If not, that is where I recommend spending the money.

Of your two options, I would go cadex since there is no real world data on the ruger precision. For the $2500USD the ruger is priced at you can build a custom rifle.

Just my 2 cents.
 
I have not though about doing any f-class competition, just me shooting, I like to roam out in the woods and finding new places to shoot at long range is a lot of fun as I live in the middle of no-where. My only concern with the 6.5 was ammo cost and available as I currently don't reload (not sure if that plays a factor in this)

Thanks again.
 
Tcon said:
In my opinion, you haven't even started reaching the maximum distances for the cartridges you have.
Do you currently reload? If not, that is where I recommend spending the money.

Of your two options, I would go cadex since there is no real world data on the ruger precision. For the $2500USD the ruger is priced at you can build a custom rifle.

Just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...

Thanks Tcon! I currently don't reload perhaps I should start.
 
What exactly "longer range" are you aiming? If it's above 800 y, I subscribe to Horse96: 308 may trick you.

In any case, quality shooter loaded ammo with all good adjustments, checks and range trials makes much more difference than whatever gun build you'd choose between your two options.
 
CristianM said:
What exactly "longer range" are you aiming? If it's above 800 y, I subscribe to Horse96: 308 may trick you.

In any case, quality shooter loaded ammo with all good adjustments, checks and range trials makes much more difference than whatever gun build you'd choose between your two options.
Click to expand...

Well at some point I would like to do beyond 800 yards, but I by no means have to do that right away. I mean right now I'm shooting 300 to 500 yards with my Robinson Arms .223 and and a 3x strikefire scope (now when I say 500 yards I mean i'm able to hit a 12" steel plate... sometimes. I'm not handloading I'm just using factory federal ammo and having a lot of fun.

So for right now I would like something that would be able to get me 500+ yards (as stated above I currently have a savage 10 fcp-sr (20" barrel, in .308) that was given to me, and it's just sitting in my den I've never fired it etc... So was trying wondering if I could use it as a build option or would it be better just to get something entry level like the Ruger Precision Rife (@ $1599.99).
 
Option 3:
Savage 10 FCP-SR - 20"
Use original stock (assuming you have it, not just a barrelled action)
Glass it with a Bushnell 10x for ~$200
Fill tube socks with dried legume of your choosing ~$2
Buy ammo, go shoot.

To save a lot of time and money, take the rifle out and get an idea of its accuracy before modifying. I've fallen into the trap of new hardware, and you end up regretting spending a lot of money for little return. I don't believe the Bushnell 10x tactical is ideal (mismatched reticle and turret adjustments) but they hold their value and sell quick on the EE. Simple sandbags on a bench are sturdier than a bipod and will help you benchmark your rifle.

If it shoots MOA, I'd leave it alone until you're certain that your rifles accuracy is the limiting factor, not the shooter.

Something I wish I'd known before I "upgraded" is that your rifles accuracy is mainly influenced by your action, barrel, and ammunition. If your action is rigidly fixed to a chunk of plywood, it'll shoot just as well as in any chassis. A solidly mounted scope and a well fitted stock eliminate possible sources of inaccuracy, but in and of themselves they can't increase the accuracy potential of your barrelled action. Ergonomics of the rifle, such as length of pull, height of comb, trigger weight, etc, help the shooter to use the rifle, but do not increase accuracy.

If you decide to upgrade, my order of preference would be:

Accuracy:
Glass bedding the stock (I'm unsure about bedding the accustocks, I've never really examined one)
New custom barrel
Blue printing the action

Ergonomics:
Adjust Length of Pull if needed (spacers or new recoil pad)
Adjust cheekpiece height if needed (elastic buttstock cartridge carrier with foam inserts to custom fit your cheek)
Trigger job / replacement

Adjustable stocks and chassis systems are pretty sharp looking, but usually add unnecessary weight and once it's adjusted for you it stays that way. Money is better spent on ammo, a barrel, and optics.

But if money isn't tight, go wild and get that chassis. It's a pretty sweet lookin' unit.
 
LittleH nailed it, money spent on chassis could be spent on loading equipment, barrels, and optics. Maximize the rifle you have before upgrading cosmetics. Get that 20" 308 out and learn to shoot it. The only way you'll know upgrades improved rifle is to shoot it before changes are made.
 
Sounds good, so I took one my scopes and slapped it onto my stock Savage 10 FCP-SR, the rings where a little high for my sightline but I made it work. This was using factory ammo, 180g federal at 150 yards. I would assume with hand loads I will be able to make this group a little tighter.

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Shoot 5 shot groups, check the torque on your action screws and make sure the stock isn't making contact with the barrel when it's in the position you're shooting.
 
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