Help with colour matching staining/oiling Enfield Wood

Frost Cracked

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I've got myself a Mk 4 that I'm putting together, and a problem I'm finding is the wood is of a couple of different shades, and types. Two parts are walnut the rest is likely American beech. I'm wondering what I can do, to try and darken up the beech slightly, so it will blend in a bit better with the walnut.

I've tried Tung Oil, but it's not done too much to darken the wood. Can anyone recommend anything?

Also, I'm not really keen on trying to find matching wood. I had to convert this stock from Mk.1 to Mk.2 to accommodate the differences in the receiver and I'm not keen to do that again.
 
Its going to be tough now that you've already done tung oil, but I'd say stain the lighter wood to match. I'm sure someone here can chime in tell you the exact stain to use.
 
I've used aniline leather dyes to match the odd handguard here and there. It works well as you can mix several dyes together to get the required shade and or colour with an oil finish.

I don't think there's much you can do at this point as the grain may be sealed with the tung oil. I know it is possible to place aniline dye over raw linseed oil, in between coats (which is a long process unto itself) - but not tung or boiled linseed or modern poly coats etc.

I'm no expert, but I'm sure they'll be along shortly to correct my info if it's wrong.
 
Thanks Maple_Leaf_Eh, not sure I deserve that much praises :)

Frost actually contacted me earlier tonight and I replied to him before realizing there was a thread here. Hey, why not throw my reply here for discussion purposes!

Here goes, shortened a bit so I won't bore you to death!




Hi Frost,

Well, first off congrats on a fine choice for a hobby.

Second, I hope I can help; I'm no expert, but if I can share some of my experience with others, then great.

What I would do is, first, reverse your actions somewhat. You need to strip the wood of all traces of oil. So, sadly, the tung oil will have to be removed. Now, I see this as a good thing, because, well, tung oil shouldn't go on a Lee Enfield. Only pure linseed oil should be coming near these rifles.

Now, how to remove the oil that's seeping deeper and deeper into the wood as you read these lines? Hopefully it's still somewhat fresh, that'll make it easier.

Get some furniture stripper at your nearest hardware store. I use some furniture stripper from Canadian Tire; the brand I have here is called "Heirloom Furniture Stripper". I would do two or even three treatments to get as much oil as possible out of the wood. Otherwise, the stain will not go into the wood and after that it'll come out when the oil is applied, and it'll look aweful and you'll swear and your wife will not be proud etc.

Now, I think that if I had a piece recently oiled I would also do a brake cleaner treatment after the wood stripper. Essentially I'd almost empty one full spray can of the stuff, let it run down the wood part into my oil / gas / other nasty liquid pan and make sure I get the wood as dry as possible.

After that, the wood should take the stain.

I would buff lightly with no. 0000 steel wool, and move on to the staining.

I've had much better results with water-based stains, compared to oil-based. Some folks also use leather dye, I've never used it - maybe I should someday but I haven't found any, and water-based stains have worked very well. Still, I should find dyes someday and try that.

The stain brand I use is called "Saman", and I have quite a few bottles. I have walnut, cinamon, black, etc etc; essentially I have enough different colours to be able to mix them to get the right colour to match a wide variety of wood. Now, here, really it's a question of practice. More art than science, in a way. I really like this part of the refurb process.

Keep in mind though that even if the colour match is perfect, the wood grain will never lie; walnut grain is very different from beech or other types so this difference will always be visible.

But: if you ask an armourer who worked with Lee Enfields way back in the years (I did have this luck), he would tell you that when they worked on these rifles in the field, and one needed fixing, you'd use whatever piece of wood you had! So it is ok, in my book, to use different types of wood... even if less elegant or less "just like if it was out of the factory".



More importantly is to end up with a rifle you like and that shoots well :)
 
Here's one I actually just finished this week, and the four wood parts had different colour to start with. Brit, WW2-dated, very nice bore - can't wait to try her out at the range!

Lou


 
May I humbly add that I find washing the stock in hot soapy water and then rinsing in hot water seems to "clean" out any chemical residue from the wood stripper/cleaner. I say humbly because Lou has a heck of a lot more experience than I do.
Dave
 
One thing to remember about your stocks, applying oil base stains will seal the surface of the wood and not allow proper penetration of your raw linseed oil. As louthepou stated above water and alcohol dyes will allow the linseed oil to soak deeply into the wood.



As you can see below the stock on my restored Irish Contract Enfield came out perfect with Rit Dye in Irish emerald green. :evil:

HSVlnw1-irish_zpsa309e80c.jpg


On my Ishapore Police riot Special Enfield rifle I just added more black paint and some old drain oil from my last oil change from my Ford truck.

Young-ones-ernest-2_zps424eb107.jpg


As you can see the folding stock and seat belt carrying strap makes this the perfect compact truck rifle.

frankenrifle-from-the-new-movie-young-ones_zps1562891a.jpg


"Bazinga"
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I find gelstains work great for blending as long as it`s just something like a rebuilt sporter. It may take a day or so to dry. It can be rubbed with fine steel wool and mineral spirits if you`ve made it too dark. It`s an old method for staining over previously sealed surfaces that you don`t want to sand down.You apply with a brush ( it`s thick) and gently wipe off with a rag and it can leave lines like wood grain. It`s used in old auditoriums to blend cheaper lumbers and even on the metal radiator covers to make them look like wood. You can get them at Rona , Home Depot, Lowes. I use them alot for fixing up that odd colour buttock or hand guard.Again it`s just cosmetic , If it`s a collector piece I would hunt for the proper wood.Or another method , If the original colours are close I mix stain into the linseed oil . Hope this helps.
 
Jeebus. ..someone needs a kick in the nuts....aside from that....lou,.fantastic work as usual..I have a Faz #4 dated 1943 that is not a refurb and is getting restored now..the advice here will help if I need to match up some of the wood...
 
The wood can be birch or maple too, but no stain will go in after the tung oil has been applied. Tung oil doesn't darken wood anyway.
 
The wood can be birch or maple too, but no stain will go in after the tung oil has been applied. Tung oil doesn't darken wood anyway.

Thank you for your truly informative posting, I will send my mislabeled Tung oil back to http://www.realmilkpaint.com/ and tell them their product doesn't exist.
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As I said before you need to spend more time on Google doing research and less time making stupid comments.

Now go to the posted website and do a little reading.
 
Wow. Thanks to everyone for all the information!

I put a coat of stripper on the stock, and scraped it down. Followed by degreaser and hot water. The Beech has faded to a very light brown colour, and the one bit of walnut has faded as well.

I'll be trying to do a stain of the whole thing to get it a decently uniform shape, but I may need to buy new stain, as this is oil-based, so I can't Linseed to protect after?

Oh well, back to store...
 
If you have a local woodworking store like Wood Crafters or something like that I would go there with your wood and ask the guys who work there what to do.

I have been attempting to match wood colors for many years now with limited success and I recently found out how Turnbull's Restorations does it on their exceptional Winchester Restos. They make the Buttstock and Fore end out of the same stock blank! Thus eliminating the need to match colors on different pieces of wood which is both time consuming and most often futile.

My whole point here is that matching wood is a trial and error endeavor. What works in one case will not even get close in another.

There are myriad wood stains out there, and I use a lot of the Min Wax brand stains. There are also dyes and tints that are useful and available from the above mentioned outfit and on line.

There is no easy answer. I have a Marlin 336 which I have had on my bench for 5 years trying to get the two pieces of wood to be somewhat close in color. It is now in my shop gun safe awaiting better ideas.

Randy
 
If you have a local woodworking store like Wood Crafters or something like that I would go there with your wood and ask the guys who work there what to do.

I have been attempting to match wood colors for many years now with limited success and I recently found out how Turnbull's Restorations does it on their exceptional Winchester Restos. They make the Buttstock and Fore end out of the same stock blank! Thus eliminating the need to match colors on different pieces of wood which is both time consuming and most often futile.

My whole point here is that matching wood is a trial and error endeavor. What works in one case will not even get close in another.

There are myriad wood stains out there, and I use a lot of the Min Wax brand stains. There are also dyes and tints that are useful and available from the above mentioned outfit and on line.

There is no easy answer. I have a Marlin 336 which I have had on my bench for 5 years trying to get the two pieces of wood to be somewhat close in color. It is now in my shop gun safe awaiting better ideas.

Randy

For regular hunting rifles with no historical or collectable value (truck/fun/bushwacking) that guys want to look nice and are old and beat up (the guns, not the guys) I usually use paint/varnish stripper, soak in hot soapy water then rinse in hot water. If that doesn't work soak the wood in concentrated bleach/water then wash. Sorry to divert the thread a bit.
 
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