Ok it's like this... I have a Pietta reproduction 1860 colt single action army .44 cal. Sometimes (mostly when it's dirty) after I #### the hammer the cylinder doesn't quite line up properly. Usually it's not out by much but the hammer is clipping the edge of the cylinder and I imagine there are safety concerns if everything isn't properly aligned. In the meantime I just check before pulling the trigger and manually align things if required but I was hoping to get to the root of the problem. Is this something that can be fixed? If so is there an adjustment I can make myself? I have already had quite a bit of enjoyment out of this pistol and they are so cheap I am only willing to invest about $100. Could be a good excuse to part it out and buy an 1858 Remington like I've wanted forever.
Help with revolver timing
- Thread starter MikeD81
- Start date
I should have been more specific you are absolutely right that it isn't rotating far enough and now that you mention it the resistance from fouling totally makes sense. Should I be doing a better job of lubrication? For cleaning I use hot soapy water in the sink, dry everything and coat liberally with G96. Would a grease be more appropriate?
My uberti Remington 1858 was out of time right from the factory, I don't think the Italians pay enough attention to this. I timed it by stoning the cam on the hammer, but my Cylinder notch's are still beat up.
If anyone know's where I can get a new cylinder, let me know
If anyone know's where I can get a new cylinder, let me know
If it isn't rotating properly the hand must be worn. You can buy the complete innards for it from Dixie quite cheaply even with the $ difference and shipping. It does need to be taken apart completely at least every so often and all the parts including inside the frame cleaned out. Thin coat of oil on the parts, grease collects too much fouling. A very light touch of grease on the cylinder pin only is what I do. New parts may need a bit of filing to work. The '58 Rem design is better but the same problems arise except for caps falling inside unless you turn the Colt to the side before recocking it.
Lonesome Donkey
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Central Alberta
Your hand is no doubt worn down, causing the cylinder to fail to fully lock into place before the hammer reaches full ####, probably even if the hammer is drawn back as far as it will go.
The best solution is to replace the hand and stone the surfaces that contact the ratchet carefully if the cylinder locks up before reaching full ####.
(The opposite of your present timing problem)
Marstar sells a Pietta parts kit for the 1851 Navy/1860 Army for $32.42, which includes all of the springs, bolt, hammer, trigger, etc.
(Everything but the screws, which is a separate kit that they also sell).
It's the same parts kit for both the 1851 and the 1860, since the Colt 1860 used the same cylinder frame and parts as the 1851.
When stronger Bessemer steel became cheaply available, Colt simply notched the frame and used a stepped, increased diameter cylinder to allow him to create a smaller .44 than the Dragoon. (With a new barrel design, longer grip straps, and a longer grip.)
A second possibility that you could try is to elongate the hand by center-punching it on both sides, above the pivot point but below the working end. (in the center). Since the hand is pretty soft, and only case-hardened, a punch indentation at the same place on both sides will make it slightly longer. If this distorts the faces of the hand, you can tap them flat with a 4 oz. or 8 oz. ball pein hammer. You don't see the hand because it is hidden inside, and it just might be enough to last for quite a while.
I have found with my Pietta Remington that a natural grease lubricant made from olive oil and beeswax works very well to stop fouling from tying up cylinder rotation. I use it on the cylinder pin (arbor in your case) and also as grease over the chambers. Instead of dry fouling, you get a softer greasy fouling that is easilly wiped away. Also, the lube gets blasted into the places that the dry fouling usually goes. I shot about 24 shots last time out, and only wiped off the cylinder faces and base pin when I reloaded. With the Colt arbor and grease grooves this lube should exclude fouling well enough without having to knock out the wedge too frequently for wiping down the arbor.
The best solution is to replace the hand and stone the surfaces that contact the ratchet carefully if the cylinder locks up before reaching full ####.
(The opposite of your present timing problem)
Marstar sells a Pietta parts kit for the 1851 Navy/1860 Army for $32.42, which includes all of the springs, bolt, hammer, trigger, etc.
(Everything but the screws, which is a separate kit that they also sell).
It's the same parts kit for both the 1851 and the 1860, since the Colt 1860 used the same cylinder frame and parts as the 1851.
When stronger Bessemer steel became cheaply available, Colt simply notched the frame and used a stepped, increased diameter cylinder to allow him to create a smaller .44 than the Dragoon. (With a new barrel design, longer grip straps, and a longer grip.)
A second possibility that you could try is to elongate the hand by center-punching it on both sides, above the pivot point but below the working end. (in the center). Since the hand is pretty soft, and only case-hardened, a punch indentation at the same place on both sides will make it slightly longer. If this distorts the faces of the hand, you can tap them flat with a 4 oz. or 8 oz. ball pein hammer. You don't see the hand because it is hidden inside, and it just might be enough to last for quite a while.
I have found with my Pietta Remington that a natural grease lubricant made from olive oil and beeswax works very well to stop fouling from tying up cylinder rotation. I use it on the cylinder pin (arbor in your case) and also as grease over the chambers. Instead of dry fouling, you get a softer greasy fouling that is easilly wiped away. Also, the lube gets blasted into the places that the dry fouling usually goes. I shot about 24 shots last time out, and only wiped off the cylinder faces and base pin when I reloaded. With the Colt arbor and grease grooves this lube should exclude fouling well enough without having to knock out the wedge too frequently for wiping down the arbor.
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The smaller cylinder pin combined with '0' requirement for powerful charges makes the Colt on an even ground with the 1858 IMO.
The extra power capable from the 1858 is a moot point in Canada.
The timing on a revolver isn't a complicated concept, but does require patience to correct. Put on a pot of coffee, spread a rag on your desk and figure it out...it'll be somewhat apparent.
Good luck BTW
