Help with sight picture
- Thread starter tpirovol
- Start date
Johnn Peterson
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Chemainus B.C.
Paper 'punching'? Image I.
My experience is that HK pistols are more like #3 out of the factory. The dot is actually a little higher on the post than what is shown in your diagram, so it isn't exactly like that, but it is "put the dot on the button". HK P7 PSP, P7M8 and P7M13 (what I mainly shoot) are definitely all like this, and I believe P2000 and USP are like this as well. (My P2000 is factory, and I'm quite certain is like this. My USP is .40 and has Trijicon's though, which are lower, and I think it gives a bit more of a 6 O'clock/#1).
GLOCK with Trijicon night sights is #1, as are a LOT of other guns. It wouldn't surprise me if the Ruger is like this. My girlfriend had one of those years ago, but I can't remember how the sights held.
If you are shooting at a circle-type target, probably start with #1 and work from there. You need to be able to shoot well enough to know what it is actually sighted in for though, and that won't come right away, but I think you have it right. HK for generations have been "put the dot on the button".
GLOCK with Trijicon night sights is #1, as are a LOT of other guns. It wouldn't surprise me if the Ruger is like this. My girlfriend had one of those years ago, but I can't remember how the sights held.
If you are shooting at a circle-type target, probably start with #1 and work from there. You need to be able to shoot well enough to know what it is actually sighted in for though, and that won't come right away, but I think you have it right. HK for generations have been "put the dot on the button".
Actually #'s 2 and three are much the same. #3 simply replaces the center of the dots for the line along the top of the rear and front blades.
IF we were using glow in the dark sights to defend our homes in the dark #3 would be fine as it's easier to see and aim that way with the glowing sights in a dark situation. But if it's that dark you would not be able to identify the target.
#1 is great if you will be shooting in a formal style where you shoot at the same target at the same distance ALL THE TIME! If you plan on using your Ruger for plinking at various targets and at various distances you would be better off to set the adjustable sights to #2. Because the #1 option isn't really aiming at where the bullets will want to hit you have two diverging lines. So the target itself becomes part of the resulting "sighting triangle". Change the size of the bull or the distance without matching the bull size and you'll find that the bullets print high for longer distances and lower for closer distances.
So good ol' #2 comes through as the all purpose general sight picture you want to go for.
IF we were using glow in the dark sights to defend our homes in the dark #3 would be fine as it's easier to see and aim that way with the glowing sights in a dark situation. But if it's that dark you would not be able to identify the target.
#1 is great if you will be shooting in a formal style where you shoot at the same target at the same distance ALL THE TIME! If you plan on using your Ruger for plinking at various targets and at various distances you would be better off to set the adjustable sights to #2. Because the #1 option isn't really aiming at where the bullets will want to hit you have two diverging lines. So the target itself becomes part of the resulting "sighting triangle". Change the size of the bull or the distance without matching the bull size and you'll find that the bullets print high for longer distances and lower for closer distances.
So good ol' #2 comes through as the all purpose general sight picture you want to go for.
I would say that for bullseye shooting with the Ruger you choose #1 (called 6 o'clock hold) or #2 (called centre hold) and one you don't show called a sub-6 hold where the sights are positioned below the black of the target, with some white space between so that you aren't distracted by the black at all. Be aware that the 6 o'clock hold has the advantage of not being "black sights on black bull", but has the disadvantage of tending to create a tendency to snatch at the shot when you see things lined up, rather than having a smooth press of the trigger. Both the 6 o'clock and sub-6 holds also have the disadvantage of requiring an adjustment to the sights if the size of the black changes (with distance of type of target). The centre hold requires no adjustments but is black-on-black and the shooter tends to shift focus to the target much more than the sub-6 hold. It's a matter of personal preference based on experience.
For the HK, #2 or #3 are both acceptable IMO, since you aren't going for the type of accuracy that you get in bullseye. The white dots can be lined up quickly in "snap shot" or low light conditions; otherwise a conventional centre hold using the tops of the sights is probably more accurate if you have the time.
For the HK, #2 or #3 are both acceptable IMO, since you aren't going for the type of accuracy that you get in bullseye. The white dots can be lined up quickly in "snap shot" or low light conditions; otherwise a conventional centre hold using the tops of the sights is probably more accurate if you have the time.
Wow. Now I will admit, my shooting experience is low. I've never shot a real gun, but I always thought you aimed at something like in example #3.
Can someone explain or post a link to a site / thread that would explain why you would aim like the other two examples.
thanks
Can someone explain or post a link to a site / thread that would explain why you would aim like the other two examples.
thanks
My HK45 DEF shoots like #3...which I enjoy, I am not shooting grapes at 50 paces so the covering method doesn't bother me lol. Works well enough for pop cans at 30+ yards and is fast and quick for IPSC and silhouette style targets AKA "combat" sized targets and ranges which is what this gun was made for.
#2 is also fine...it how I like to set up my wheel guns (as well as rifles) and find it better for more "bullseye" style of shooting where accuracy is valued over speed.
#1 tho...CANNOT stand it!!! Pure garbage to me.
#2 is also fine...it how I like to set up my wheel guns (as well as rifles) and find it better for more "bullseye" style of shooting where accuracy is valued over speed.
#1 tho...CANNOT stand it!!! Pure garbage to me.
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No one here can tell you the right sight picture to use because no one here will hold the pistol like you or see the same sight picture as you.
Take your guns to the range and practice trying the various sight pictures until you find what works for you.
Take your guns to the range and practice trying the various sight pictures until you find what works for you.
heavenIsAlie
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Abbotsford
huh? a sight picture is a sight picture, the top needs to be lined up and the same amount of light on each side of the front post. otherwise no matter what hold is needs they bullet isnt going to go here its aimed. this question is wrongly labelled sight picture and is really about target hold.
try and shoot the pistols off a bench to test what hold you need, or give them to someone you know shoots well to test. shooting off a bench means any lack of shooting skills is minimized (such as the gun shooting high due to flinch) then use which ever the gun matches up with or if they have adjustable sights then adjust them to the one you like best. I make all my guns shoot with the #3 hold, much easier and quicker for me because the bullet goes where the dot is and its one less thing for my brain to process
