Help with valuation of Winchester 1886 in 40-65 *picture warning*

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stickhunter

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Hi there,

I was just sent some pictures of a rifle that a friend owns and has asked if I'd be interested in purchasing as he knows I have a thing for leverguns. I'm normally a Marlin guy, so I'd appreciate some help on determining a fair price for the rifle based on the condition as shown in the pictures. Unfortunately, the pictures aren't the best quality and I didn't get an overall shot, but I'll request one.

What I know is that the rifle is a Winchester 1886 in 40-65, 26" octagon barrel, full length mag tube. The bore is in good condition with no pitting.

Opinions?

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I paid 3K for a similarly conditioned gun recently and was happy, but thats just me:)


***Looking at it again there could be evidence of case color on the lower tang and on the lever as well, bluing on the barrel looks present which will push the price up even more. Better pictures are an asset here and again just my opinion as these situations are very subjective.***
 
I was lucky and bought one for $600 in what looks like the same condition. Alot of people think I should feel guilty but I never offered to buy it he offered it to me for that. I believe it is worth a couple thousand for sure.
 
billdick said:
I was lucky and bought one for $600 in what looks like the same condition. Alot of people think I should feel guilty but I never offered to buy it he offered it to me for that. I believe it is worth a couple thousand for sure.
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It's of course hard to tell from a few pictures what the overall condition is, so I'm hoping to get a chance in the next little while to closely inspect the rifle. I also suspect the flash may have distorted the metal colour.

My friend offered it to me for $1000, so it sounds like it might be a good deal although I don't want to take advantage of him if he's unaware of its true value.

I've never handled an 1886 before, so are there any particular problem areas (i.e., common broken components) that I should be aware of? Should dry cycling the action be one continuous smooth motion or are there stages in the cycle where it should feel stifff (e.g., cocking the hammer)?

Lastly, does anyone have experience handloading the 40-65? I understand the 1886 is a pretty strong action, but is the barrel steel suitable for heavier smokeless powder loads or should velocities/pressures be kept to the original cartridge specs? I guess with these older rifles it's probably best to keep the pressures down to prevent undue wear, so my question about strength is more out of curiousity than intent.


Much appreciated!
 
There have been several for sale, in island gunshows, recently for 1000 - 1500 depending on condition and so forth. I don't think you would be skinning your friend too badly at $1000
For smokeless loading data probably look for something modern and relatively low pressure and similar to the 40-65. Without checking the numbers, I suspect that 444 marlin data and light loads might be appropriate. Keep in mind that a slightly smaller bore will up the pressures a bit as well as if you use heavier slugs than the 444

cheers mooncoon
 
A $1000 is a absolute steal IMHO. A beat up parts guns will go for $500- $750 if the wood is decent, a clean set of wood is worth $500.
You guys that see good clean guns like this one for $1000 - $1500 let me know:eek:! Clean bore, no cracks in the wood and no extra drilled holes in the receiver will start in the $2000- $2500 range. Start adding finish and who knows where it will end.
If this gun hasn't been dicked with I would be happy to pay $2500+ depending on final inspection.
OP congrats, and if you would like to see what $1000 to $10000 will get you get a hold of me.:cheers:

Oh, and loading is as simple as the 45-70, size 45-70 through 40-65 dies, trim, load and the way you go :)
 
My old 86 has no proof marks on it so it is a black powder one I am told. I shoot black powder out of mine. I had a friend lend me his winchester 40-82 mold and I bought some dies and shoot it every once and a while. The lead I used wasn't soft enough to start so it shot pretty crappy. I cast some softer ones and it made quite a difference. Buy it and have fun.
 
Before this threads possibility of going sideways, my intention of my comments were to help establish for the OP a value for the gun to be fair to the owner, which I have and will put my wallet where my mouth is. In other words, market value in this area at least. It's his business wheather he passes this along or not that it is possibly worth $1500 more on the open market.

To those who have messaged me on other guns, thanks, but I should haved made it clear that they need to be in original condition. No sanded wood, re-blued or extra holes drilled etc....Thanks.
 
Mike Webb said:
In my area an unmessed with 86 with little original finish but a good bore will go for around $1500 but there's not a large market.
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I obviously live in the wrong part of the country:( Around here for $1500 you might get a complete un-butchered specimen but there will be little or no bore and a few cracks in at least one piece of the woods.
Recently for $1000-$1100 you could have been the proud owner of a no bore, oct. edges well worn, a few extra holes on the receiver and half a cord of wood missing from the butt stock.
 
In the original photo of the wrist area of the buttstock, there appears to be an odd shape to the wood just behind the upper tang, where it rises to crest at the comb. It should be a smooth radius, but the photo seems to show that the radius has been messed with, probably to accommodate a folding tang site. That would have a detrimental effect on the value, but $1,000 would still be a good deal.
 
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