Home made m14 trigger work?

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GunNewb

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so I just used the poor mans trick to check trigger weight on my m305 (ziploc full of water)

According to my grade 9 math its sitting at about 6.2lbs currently- not able to check for consistency using this method.


Im pretty good with that but it prolly wouldnt hurt anything to take the trigger apart and give the hammer + sear a sanding with some grit paper, right?
 
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This will be a pretty touchy subject here as I' sure you are aware. (assuming you are talking about a M14)
As far as I know there is only 1 place on the M14 trigger that can be manipulated to actually reduce trigger pull. I don't know which area it is either. I saw the picture once and didn't save it, if someone has the picture showing where to actually remove material please PM it to me.
However I did dismantle my trigger and I used some of those cheap revlon nail files and some WD40 to polish the parkerizing off of all the contact areas. I couldn't believe the difference in smoothness. It didn't actually decrease the creep or travel, nor reduce the pull weight. But it got rid of all of the gritty feel in the take up and the trigger breaks very cleanly.
Also I believe that 5.5 lbs is considered the minimum safe trigger pull for a NORC trigger group.
(Look for the Hungry approved trigger clean up job too, you should be able to find it, or just PM him)
Derek
 
wut. I thought this was the m14 forum. :) ---fixed.


thanks Canuck if 5.5 is minimum safe then Im even happier. I was pleasantly surprised.

Ill likely do that then- lightly polish certain parts. Im only really into this 'cause Im gonna be stripping her apart to put a couple new parts in anyways and might as well.
 
usgi was a break point of 4 pounds, or you wouldn'tpass the ig( inspector general) typical was 5 pounds, and given the crude manufacturing tolerances of the chinese,and the way you measured it,( you REALLY need a proper guage) i don't think 6.2 is intolerable- but don't try to "improve " upon it or you might end up with one that goes off just by looking at it- it's a fine line ( literally one stroke) between relaible and unsafe- you have to have GARAND experience on TRIGGER JOBS to do it properly- there's only a few folks in n america that can do the job
so in answer to your question, YES, IT WILL HURT to "take a file " or stone the sears- it's obvious you DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING-LEAVE THE THING ALONE- I CAN'T SHOUT THAT LOUDLY ENOUGH- if you cross that barrier, you end up with 1) a full auto that wont stop; and 2) goes off at the least hint of movement- like picking it up- ie an UNSAFE rifle
 
GunNewb said:
so I just used the poor mans trick to check trigger weight on my m305 (ziploc full of water)

According to my grade 9 math its sitting at about 6.2lbs currently- not able to check for consistency using this method.


Im pretty good with that but it prolly wouldnt hurt anything to take the trigger apart and give the hammer + sear a sanding with some grit paper, right?
Click to expand...

Stop. Back away from the sandpaper.
 
The best trigger job is to use lubrication. The other thing that speaks to what t-star above has mentioned, is to never touch the engagement surfaces. That doesn't mean the bearing surfaces can't be inspected. My first attempt at any tuning is to stone the blueing off the sides of the the moving parts that move with the trigger. So, the sides of the hammer, the bearing surface on the hammer strut, the few places where the safety touchs the trigger guard, etc.
 
Grease it up to smooth things and a smoother pull. For a lighter pull, send the TG to M14Doctor, I mean..... 45ACPKing once he gets his bench opened up after his move. :D

I've felt several triggers that he has tuned and I'm super impressed. The rest of you guys... put down that Dremel or File! Don't bother doing it unless you REALLY know what you are doing. I don't so I just grease my trigger sear/ hammer hook contact points.

Or if you want, apply some tooth paste (very mild abrasive, so you cannot screw things up) and work those contact points back and forth for an entire hockey... whoops, the NHL is still locked out. AND my Maple Leafs are STILL Undefeated :D LOL

Cheers and please be safe!

Barney
 
Hungry said:
Grease it up to smooth things and a smoother pull. For a lighter pull, send the TG to M14Doctor, I mean..... 45ACPKing once he gets his bench opened up after his move. :D

I've felt several triggers that he has tuned and I'm super impressed. The rest of you guys... put down that Dremel or File! Don't bother doing it unless you REALLY know what you are doing. I don't so I just grease my trigger sear/ hammer hook contact points.

Or if you want, apply some tooth paste (very mild abrasive, so you cannot screw things up) and work those contact points back and forth for an entire hockey... whoops, the NHL is still locked out. AND my Maple Leafs are STILL Undefeated :D LOL


Cheers and please be safe!

Barney
Click to expand...


I always wondered why Barney had such fresh breath!
 
I highly recommend the smith enterprise kit that includes reduced spring, "oversize" hammer and trigger pins plus either the pin that holds the op rod sping guide if doing an M1A1 or the pin that holds the op rod catch et al on a Garand (part numbers 2060 or 3003). I've installed a half dozen or so sets on both formats and I've only had to ream out a burr in one hammer that had previously allowed a stock pin to slide through w/o resistance. Aproximately 4.5 - 5 lbs with stock sear engagement.
R
 
Simon said:
Bought a new spring from treeline, the chrome silicon one.

Big improvement over the norinco factory spring, give it a try its pretty cheap too.
Click to expand...



Yeah I just bought a david tubb op rod spring and it came with a trigger spring so I really might as well. Hows about that wise ones- no problem putting the freedom loving spring in there besides the social welfare trigger group is there?


Im not gonna bother much with it as is. Perhaps in a few years Ill spring for a new trigger, bolt, etc etc....

more than good enough for my purposes
 
Other than the Hungry method of watchin a leafs game and cocking and firing your trigger group the entire time to. Smoothen all the surfaces..... I know , no NHL.. :(

I don't recommend taking any tools to your trigger group, period.
Lot's can go wrong and fast and when it goes wrong.... A risk to your personal safety is the main concern.

Hammer springs.... A nice upgrade but generally this does nothing for creep or misaligned/rough engagement surfaces.
Hammer free length should not be less than 2.00" minimum! 2.014 desireable. With both ends at 90 degrees to spring body.
Trigger pull or break is US national match 4.5lbs (with armourer and parts depot for support) , US recommended safe minimum for commercial M1A/M14 triggers is 5lbs absolute minimum.
Trigger break weight is adjusted at the rear hammer hooks only.
To increase trigger break, this is done at the trigger body spine.
These areas and sear/hammer surfaces should only be adjusted or touched by a professional as far as tools go ;)
 
45ACPKING said:
Other than the Hungry method of watchin a leafs game and cocking and firing your trigger group the entire time to. Smoothen all the surfaces..... I know , no NHL.. :(

I don't recommend taking any tools to your trigger group, period.
Lot's can go wrong and fast and when it goes wrong.... A risk to your personal safety is the main concern.

Hammer springs.... A nice upgrade but generally this does nothing for creep or misaligned/rough engagement surfaces.
Hammer free length should not be less than 2.00" minimum! 2.014 desireable. With both ends at 90 degrees to spring body.
Trigger pull or break is US national match 4.5lbs (with armourer and parts depot for support) , US recommended safe minimum for commercial M1A/M14 triggers is 5lbs absolute minimum.
Trigger break weight is adjusted at the rear hammer hooks only.
To increase trigger break, this is done at the trigger body spine.
These areas and sear/hammer surfaces should only be adjusted or touched by a professional as far as tools go ;)
Click to expand...
Ya but Doc you frogot about my favorite add-on...
The Winged Plunger ;)
And guess what I found in my parts bin :p
 
t-star said:
usgi was a break point of 4 pounds, or you wouldn'tpass the ig( inspector general) typical was 5 pounds, and given the crude manufacturing tolerances of the chinese,and the way you measured it,( you REALLY need a proper guage) i don't think 6.2 is intolerable- but don't try to "improve " upon it or you might end up with one that goes off just by looking at it- it's a fine line ( literally one stroke) between relaible and unsafe- you have to have GARAND experience on TRIGGER JOBS to do it properly- there's only a few folks in n america that can do the job
so in answer to your question, YES, IT WILL HURT to "take a file " or stone the sears- it's obvious you DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING-LEAVE THE THING ALONE- I CAN'T SHOUT THAT LOUDLY ENOUGH- if you cross that barrier, you end up with 1) a full auto that wont stop; and 2) goes off at the least hint of movement- like picking it up- ie an UNSAFE rifle
Click to expand...



For the record- Bought a gauge they are awesome it doesnt take 10 minutes to check trigger pull. :)

But for anyone reading- my measurement was exactly correct! Water trick forthewin
 
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