Hopkins and Allen XL No3 broken Please help

F

FARMHANDYO

CGN Regular
Rating - 90%
8   1   1
Hi everyone,

I recently purchased a Hopkins and Allen xl no3.

I was planning on shooting it because the bore is in very good condition. I have reloaded some 32 rimfire for the handgun. Unfortunately the firearm now has a broken part. When I try to #### the hammer the cylinder now will not rotate. I completely took the revolver apart which was not actually very hard. There is a little tiny claw type piece of steel that has snapped off. To me it looks like it connects to the cylinder stop. I think that it is called a cylinder stop. This piece is held in with a cylindrical rod that can be punched out by the looks of it. I do not know how I can fix this. It is a shame because it looks really nice on the outside. I am hoping that some of you gunsmiths out there can help and I will give you LOTS of images. Another thing that I noticed was that the hammer has a slight crack in it.

All of the images will be posted to my google drive.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1sKAbQqw4h_U-FeKxzH_45dGq-DAU9XDF?usp=sharing
Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:
Buy a gun that works. Sell this one to someone that want to make the parts and fix the problems on a hobby basis.

Antique or no, between making the pawl ( relatively easy ish) and making the hammer (not so much) there's several hours of shop time to be consumed in that, with no real guess at what will break next.
 
The Pawl Is fine. The pawl is I think the part that pushes up on the ratchet and causes the cylinder to move to the next bored through hole. The peice that broke off I think causes the cylinder to unlock so that the pawl can rotate the cylinder. Thanks for the advice. Ive also found hammers for $40 American.
 
Thanks for the advice tigrr. The bigger issue I think is that small broken piece more than the hairline crack on the hammer.
 
FARMHANDYO said:
The Pawl Is fine. The pawl is I think the part that pushes up on the ratchet and causes the cylinder to move to the next bored through hole. The peice that broke off I think causes the cylinder to unlock so that the pawl can rotate the cylinder. Thanks for the advice. Ive also found hammers for $40 American.
Click to expand...

Then buy the hammer. Or, try to, and see if the seller will Export it.

See if he has the cylinder latch that the arm broke off, too, if he's willing to Export the parts.

Then your problems are solved, yeah?
 
The part in your link goes at the front of the frame to hold the cylinder pin. It is not the cylinder bolt, which seems to be the part you need.
I took a good look at your pictures and although I have no direct experience with that particular model it looks to me that there is something wrong with the working relationship between the hammer and locking bolt. During cocking, the plunger in the face of the hammer should tip up the tail of the bolt, unlocking the cylinder for rotation. When the hammer falls, the plunger should recede to snap past the tail of the bolt. I think that possibly the plunger seized at some point and had no give when it contacted the bolt, causing the tail to be broken off.
The crack in the hammer is related to the issue. My take is that you will need to replace the hammer and cylinder stop bolt.
 
FARMHANDYO said:
Just found a link to the little spring part that I would need. I am not completely sure though If this is the part. May be worth a shot regardless though.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/972830
Click to expand...

The part in the link does not look like the same one. Pull the rest of the broken part out, and compare, before you spend any money on it.

In my admittedly biased opinion, you can make a replacement with a drill press, hacksaw, and file. Possibly several attempts, in an evenings farting around. Make it, fit it, then harden it.
 
Waba said:
The part in your link goes at the front of the frame to hold the cylinder pin. It is not the cylinder bolt, which seems to be the part you need.
I took a good look at your pictures and although I have no direct experience with that particular model it looks to me that there is something wrong with the working relationship between the hammer and locking bolt. During cocking, the plunger in the face of the hammer should tip up the tail of the bolt, unlocking the cylinder for rotation. When the hammer falls, the plunger should recede to snap past the tail of the bolt. I think that possibly the plunger seized at some point and had no give when it contacted the bolt, causing the tail to be broken off.
The crack in the hammer is related to the issue. My take is that you will need to replace the hammer and cylinder stop bolt.
Click to expand...

Hopefully some Ontario gunsmith somehow has those parts lying around and the expertise to fit them to the revolver. Its a real shame it has a very nice bore for being over 100 years old.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom