Noob to progressive reloading needs some advice, I recently aquired one of these "new in box" and have a couple questions about this particular unit. From what i read they are very similar to the new L-N-L. I will be using it for mostly 22-250, 25-06 and 30-06. What has the general opinion been on these things? Is there anything that I should know, tips, tricks or add ons, to getting this to perform properly? Lastly, what powder measure should I buy? Hornady says any one with 7/8 to 14 threads but I'm unsure which ones come like this, I know my Lee measure doesn't. Any help would be appreciated as I'm new to this whole progressive press thing and would like to have it run as smoothly as possible. Thanks.
Hornady Pro-Jector???
- Thread starter Courtntan
- Start date
I curently have an older Lee Challenger that works fine but this one kind of "fell into my lap" and I figured that it could be used to save some time. I realize that it's more for the guy that's going to turn out 1000's of rounds as opposed to the guy that wants to turn out a couple hundred but I like the idea of being able to do multiple stages at once as well as being able to stop the process pretty much whenever I want as oppossed to having to completely finish once I've started...if that makes any sence. 
Nope not at allI curently have an older Lee Challenger that works fine but this one kind of "fell into my lap" and I figured that it could be used to save some time. I realize that it's more for the guy that's going to turn out 1000's of rounds as opposed to the guy that wants to turn out a couple hundred but I like the idea of being able to do multiple stages at once as well as being able to stop the process pretty much whenever I want as oppossed to having to completely finish once I've started...if that makes any sence.
I dont know how you reload with a single stage but I can stop any time I want.
I deprime and size, then prime, then drop each powder charge indivually and seat each bullet indivually. So I can stop after makeing just one or contiune on to 50 or 100
I dont like setting 50 rounds primed in a tray and drop all the powder at the same time thats how accidents can happen and since I use a chargemaster it would take forever so while I am seating the bullet the chargemaster is droping the next charge. Works well for me
BTW I have a hornady LNL and I only use it for pistol and I use my lee challenger for rifle.
If you need help getting the parts to get that up and running let me know well get them for you.
The new powder measure system Hornady sells for the L-N-L is probably a good pick for your Projector. The only downside is that if you like to weigh each charge, it's not going to work loading progressively. If you like fine grained extruded or ball powders, it will work fine.
I wouldn't hesitate to load rifle on this press. I had one for 10+ years and AFAIK, it's still in use today by it's current owner.
Yes it is! It's still going strong! I use it for both pistol and rifle rounds. I don't load for volume when I load rifle cartridges so I usually use the press as a glorified single stage.
As mentioned, the case activated powder measure is the way to go with this press. The old system of the rod and bar activator is a weak point - it's too fiddly to waste time with.
I've had one since about 89 but now use a 650 with a case feeder for "serious" volume but my projector is still running strong.
Now, to answer the question, few tips, and no tricks...keep it clean, don't screw the shell plate down too tightly, get a couple of spare springs, the retaining spring around the shell plate let loose on mine, as did the priming arm spring.
Ah, the primer mechanism. Watch it for alignment, mine tends to come out of alignment every once in a while, I've lightly lubed the actuator arm that starts the primer arm and that seems to help.
Any powder drop will work as they've said (get a spare spring for this set up as well) I'm using an RCBS unit.
When things bind up, stop, it ain't right and forcing it isn't going to 'fix' it.
Good luck!
Now, to answer the question, few tips, and no tricks...keep it clean, don't screw the shell plate down too tightly, get a couple of spare springs, the retaining spring around the shell plate let loose on mine, as did the priming arm spring.
Ah, the primer mechanism. Watch it for alignment, mine tends to come out of alignment every once in a while, I've lightly lubed the actuator arm that starts the primer arm and that seems to help.
Any powder drop will work as they've said (get a spare spring for this set up as well) I'm using an RCBS unit.
When things bind up, stop, it ain't right and forcing it isn't going to 'fix' it.
Good luck!
Yes. Mine, (now Snowdog's) caused me some grief.
The spring loaded pawls on the lower ram linkage drive the shellplate on the up and down stroke. They need to be kept clean, and very lightly lubed. They also need to be inspected. Just like a slot screwdriver, only the leading edge is actually doing the work, and they can chip. There is a double set screw and nut system to allow each pawl to be set higher or lower as required.
Hmmm, I've been loading on one for years and never had an indexing problem. Every now and then I get a primer misfeed, but that's about it. I didn't like the way the Hornady case-activated linkage worked, so now I'm using an RCBS Uniflow with the micrometer insert and the RCBS case-activated linkage. Runs like a champ.
