How can I lighten the trigger pull on...........

The easiest way to lose 1/4-1/2lb is to do a total disassembly and polish job on the contact parts. Tweaking the leaf spring and changing out the mainspring for a lighter one can shave another 1/2lb+ or so. I'll leave sear work for the pros.
 
The easiest way to lose 1/4-1/2lb is to do a total disassembly and polish job on the contact parts. Tweaking the leaf spring and changing out the mainspring for a lighter one can shave another 1/2lb+ or so. I'll leave sear work for the pros.

This. Don't mess up the sear
 
http://www.brownells.com/GunTech/2-189-lb-Trigger-Pull/detail.htm?lid=10297

It doesn't matter that it's a Sig. It's still a 1911. And that's about as generic as you can get in the handgun world.

More than one 1911 tuner has also told me that the lion's share of the changes are related to the three finger spring. The rest from polishing is more the icing on the cake. Now if you're talking about getting serious then that's different. That means setting up the sear for a sharp clean break and that calls for some serious gunsmithing. But something you can do yourself is to pull out the three finger spring and after carefully measuring or tracing out the curves on some paper for all three fingers then start making small changes and try them. The tracings are so you can go back to square 1 if you mess things up too badly.
 
Before you start measure the current pull weight, decide what weight you want, determine if requirement is feasible.

My SIG 1911 scorpion trigger is fine. What specifically don't you like about your trigger? too heavy, not crisp break like glass?

For intro to gunsmithing fun play with a NORC.
a Sig 1911 .45 STX? Thanks.
 
There's also the risk that if working on the sear one may shorten up the reset point. And if it shortens too far you can end up with hammer follow or suddenly running in full auto.
 
For intro to gunsmithing fun play with a NORC.

That's exactly why I bought my Norc. So what if I screw up a $350 pistol.
I bought the sear jig from Brownell's and if you follow the instructions and TAKE YOUR TIME you will be just fine. I got mine from just about 7 lbs down to just over 4 and really don't want it much lower.
That being said if you are not a patient person (took me 45 minutes) and attention to fine detail just leave your sear alone.
 
Thanks! to those that posted helpful information. This is my first 1911 style pistol. I was hoping a lighter trigger pull would be a easy as changing the springs in my Glocks and Shadow2, guess that's not the case. The Shadow2 trigger has spoiled me. I know a guy (gunsmith) here in NB that might be able give the pistol a little tuning.
 
Another thing to consider is that the Sig 1911 STX is a Series 80 gun; the extra bits that make up the firing pin block system increase trigger pull compared to a Series 70 gun. Converting the gun to use series 70 parts with a spacer will really make a difference.

FWIW, I have an STX with a 4 1/4 lb trigger pull out of the box with only the trigger screw adjusted for overtravel. Anything less than 5 lbs in a Series 80 gun is a good start.
 
Another thing to consider is that the Sig 1911 STX is a Series 80 gun; the extra bits that make up the firing pin block system increase trigger pull compared to a Series 70 gun. Converting the gun to use series 70 parts with a spacer will really make a difference.

FWIW, I have an STX with a 4 1/4 lb trigger pull out of the box with only the trigger screw adjusted for overtravel. Anything less than 5 lbs in a Series 80 gun is a good start.

Thanks for your post Mickey849 I'll try to get a trigger pull reading in the next week or so but am guessing it's in the 6-7 lb range but I might be dead wrong, like I said the CZ spoiled me. I have old eyes and would like to install a optic sight on the slide but am having a problem finding the proper mount and by the design of the slide that might not work out. I have my sights on a S&W Tactical .45 which I think might be a better candidate for a optic sight.
Mickey did you turn the screw in or out on the trigger adjustment? Thanks!
 
My Sig Target 1911 was 4.5lbs out of the box. After some buffing and tweaking, it's now at 3.5lbs. I have a 80 to 70 shim sitting on my bench. I keep meaning to try it to see how much improvement it'll make.
 
As mentioned already, I did the same thing and bought a Norc 1911 to 'play with'. Bought it for $280, sold for $300 shipped.. net even but learned a lot on it.
Sear jigs aren't cheap, but saves you buying another sear I suppose.
The Ed Brown one costs about $100 by the time you get it into Canada from Brownells, but you can easily sell it for that after you're done with it.

But the easiest way to lighten the trigger is get a C&S kit and have a gunsmith that works on 1911's install it.
 
Mickey did you turn the screw in or out on the trigger adjustment? Thanks!

Threading it in decreases trigger over-travel (if you thread it in to far, the pistol won't fire / let the hammer fall)

Threading it out increases over-travel (after the sear disengages and the hammer falls, the trigger can still move to the rear until it stops on the frame. Some call this trigger slop.)

I found I had to dry fire with snap caps a bunch of times while adjusting the screw until I was happy with where the trigger fired / stopped pretty close together.
 
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