How do I control primer depth?

I sometimes hand prime, but I am a bit on the skinny side and it gets tiring soon. (after 100-200 rounds).
I prefer to prime on the upstroke on a lee press if I have alot to do.
What I hate the most is the priming on the downstroke on the loadmaster, you can't feel anything. So you don't notice bad primers. (sideways, or no primer...)

I need to get an xl 650, really.
 
I have never uniformed primer pockets for any cartridge other than a couple I want 1/4 moa accuracy from and I have never had a misfire. I have used the RCBS bench priming tool for more than 30 years now, it has great "feel" and plenty of leverage. Is it possible you got some contaminated primers? Do they go bang at all on the second or third hit? Check your rim thickness between the factories that worked and your reloaded cases, I have found significant differences from different brands in 45-70. The Miroku are superbly made rifles so I doubt the problem would be with them and particularly two of them.
Do NOT leave your primers seated high as was advised earlier in this thread, that will only exasperate your problems. Primers must be seated firmly to the bottom of the pocket as shown in the pics by bigedp51.
I truly believe you either a) got some bad primers b) need to review your priming technique
 
I don't think any one has pointed you in the right direction yet. If your 1886 has the tang safety/rebounding hammer then there was a small problem with the strut that pushed the hammer. The strut is forked and the lower fork was a teeny bit long and acted as a stop during hammer fall. It caused light/short primer strike. The fix is relatively easy and requires shortening the lower fork of the strut by about .035". It was written up in either Rifle or Handloader magazine by Scovill about 10 or so years ago. You have to understand how to compress the spring for re-assembly before you proceed. It helps if you have a drill press (for springe compression, not drilling) and vise and can construct an assembly sleeve to install slave pins. Try looking at the castboolits site as there may be a sticky detailing the procedure. It's not that difficult to do and I've done it on a couple including my own. The hammer will sit slightly lower than at present when lowered manually but the procedure does not compromise safety.
 
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