How do you get your scope level on your precision rifle?

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Sorry for the redundancy, as I already asked this question in the optics forum...

I've been told that if my scope is even 1 degree out of alignment it will have an adverse outcome on my long range shooting, so I'll ask the pros who use this forum for advice...

Here it goes...

I've looked back 36 months on the thread search and can't find any info on leveling a precision scope.. I'm running a bushnell 4200 6-24x50 on a savage 10bat-s/k... I have tried to run a torpedo level on the rail of the rifle to level the rifle first whilst in the vice, then try to level the scope on top of that by putting the level on the top turret... It's seems to me that there must be a more precise way to do this, perhaps a better level made specifically for this purpose...

Any and all info is greatly appreciated

Thanks in advance
 
Keeping it level helps with predictability, but it is arguably MORE important to keep the scope in the same plane from shot to shot. Even if the gun is canted a small amount, as long as it stays in the same amount of cant, that is what matters.

There are many different techniques for leveling the scope, but I put my gun in a cradle and literally place a bubble level on the scope rail. When the gun is level, I add the scope, and then I add a bubble level anti-cant device to the scope itself. That way the ACD reports when the scope is level with the scope rail when I shoot.
 
Obtunded said:
Keeping it level helps with predictability, but it is arguably MORE important to keep the scope in the same plane from shot to shot. Even if the gun is canted a small amount, as long as it stays in the same amount of cant, that is what matters.

There are many different techniques for leveling the scope, but I put my gun in a cradle and literally place a bubble level on the scope rail. When the gun is level, I add the scope, and then I add a bubble level anti-cant device to the scope itself. That way the ACD reports when the scope is level with the scope rail when I shoot.
Click to expand...
X2 works for me - consistency is the key.
Cat
 
I use a 2 pronged method. I level the gun as obtunded has indicated. (I use 2 starett machinist bubble levels) one on the scope rail, the other for the scope. Once the gun is level of the scope rail then I place the scope in the rings and level using the second leve. I do this with a plumb line hanging at least 50 meters out. I then ensure the reticle is leve to the plumb line as well.
 
When mounting, I torpedo level the rifle in a vice and then torpedo level the top turret of the scope.

I then confirm at the range by using a framing level to draw a perfectly level crosshair on a target. Then I level the gun on the bench and make sure everything agrees.
 
I level my rifle, line the reticle with a plumb line or
on a level set in the distance, then run my elevation from end to end up and down to
make sure the movement is actually pefectly verticle. Reticle and body are not always true to the actual elevation travel. If reticle and actual elevation travel are not the same send that scope back, or deal with it being off one way or another. I just sent a scope into orbit last week because the windage and elevation adjustments were dragging, taking whacks with a stick or multiple shots to get it over. I tried to re-create the sniper shot from enemy at the gates, all I had left was some cheap factory junk, hit just low on the rock it was sitting on, last I saw of the scop it was on it's way to obiting the earth but the eye piece was still there, couldn't find the rest.
 
Blackcloud said:
I use a 2 pronged method. I level the gun as obtunded has indicated. (I use 2 starett machinist bubble levels) one on the scope rail, the other for the scope. Once the gun is level of the scope rail then I place the scope in the rings and level using the second leve. I do this with a plumb line hanging at least 50 meters out. I then ensure the reticle is leve to the plumb line as well.
Click to expand...

This is what I do. Then I take it to the range, an do a short verticle repeatability test. Shoot once low on a screen, then with the same point of aim, dial the elevation up a couple dozen minutes, and fire another. If these are on a plumb line, I go shoot.

Getting my crosshairs level really got into my head at one point. I figures that has to be well within vertical for any field position I can find.
 
I use feeler gauges between the scope and the rail, surprisingly enough this is bang on most of the time. I also have a level crosshair drawn on a wall in my house, I use this in conjunction with a level on the receiver or rail.

Then as other have said, the ultimate test follows. Run the elevation up and down, shoot groups and make sure they are all on the same vertical plane.
 
yukoncoyote said:
x 2 on the feeler gauges. Seemed to work perfectly every time I've tried it.
Click to expand...

This is a great technique which I also use...BUT...The scope needs to have a Flat/level surface on the bottom (usually the turret adjustment housing) for this to work.

There are many scopes on the market with no flat spot...I assume this is what brings the question up in the first place.

As already stated : Consitent sight alignment is more important than having a perfectly level scope. When shooting F-class, I check for cant by placing the crosshairs along the tops of the targets before each shot.
 
I level to the action rails, level the scope with a plumbline and use a scope mounted level. Then I shoot two groups at 100, one over the other with 30 minutes of elevation turned in. The second group has to be right over the first, which is easiest to check with the same plumbline. Usually I'll alternate 30 up, 30 down to check if the scope is tracking, skipping, sticking or otherwise screwing with my life. At the same time, if 30 minutes isn't really 30 minutes I'll find that out too.
 
ryandpahl said:
This is a great technique which I also use...BUT...The scope needs to have a Flat/level surface on the bottom (usually the turret adjustment housing) for this to work.

There are many scopes on the market with no flat spot...I assume this is what brings the question up in the first place.

As already stated : Consitent sight alignment is more important than having a perfectly level scope. When shooting F-class, I check for cant by placing the crosshairs along the tops of the targets before each shot.
Click to expand...

Feeler gauge use definitely depends on the scope. My Nightforce scope works well with this technique. My Leupold MK4 is not even close.

From the NF manual:

Leveling the Reticle
For precision shooting, the reticle and the rifle need to be squared, or plumb, to each other. Any out of square condition can cause sighting errors that will be magnified even more at longer distances.
*******The reticle in all Nightforce scopes is confirmed plumb with the flat surface on the bottom of the turret saddle.********
You can use pin gauges, a sliding sine bar or flat shims to align the flat surface with the top of the scope rail.

To level the reticle using a plumb line, follow the three steps that follow:

1. Level the rifle on a steady rest such as sandbags or a stable shooting rest. This can be accomplished with a bubble level attached to the riflescope base, or on a flat section of the action.

2. Use a plumb line or some other known plumb vertical line at a distance from the rifle where you can see it clearly through the riflescope. A distance of 100 yards is recommended, but good results can often be obtained as close as 50 yards.

3. Center the reticle on the plumb line and rotate the riflescope in the rings until the vertical line of the reticle is parallel with the plumb line. Recheck the rifle level and adjust the reticle position as needed. When both the rifle and the reticle are plumb, tighten all ring top screws evenly until the riflescope is secure in the rings. Recheck the rifle and reticle one more time for plumb, adjust as needed, then torque the screws to the recommended torque settings. Your Nightforce riflescope is now properly mounted.
 
I stick the scope in the rings and look through it. If it looks level, I tighten the rings. If it looks tipped, I turn it a bit in the rings until it looks level then I tighten the rings. At the range, I hold it level and shoot that way. Works OK. Regards, Bill
 
Thanks for all the good info guys...
I used the plumb line technique as well as a micrometer to measure the distance between the rail and the flat surface on the bottom of the scope.
So far it seems pretty good, I had one 5 shot group at 500m that measured just over 4.25 inches... Not bad at all...
 
If its a hunting rifle, I shoulder the rifle and use a plum line 20 or 30 yds away and square the scope. I figure everyone holds a gun differently and if the scope is perfectly square with the gun, then it may not be square when you hold it to your shoulder. Something I shoot from the bench I square the scope to the rifle and find it to be straight when I'm on on the bench. This is just me, your mileage my vary.

stretch
 
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