How does one figure out g7 bc?
- Thread starter bear cat
- Start date
- Location
- Jameson, SK
That's my basic understanding, and that the farther apart your 2 chrony's are, the better your data is (and the more chance of shooting one of them!!!). I've read tales of guys shooting through a chrony at 800yds (and then hitting it).
-J.
-J.
The BC doesn't just affect the drop in velocity. By it's effect on velocity it also affects the bullet drop. So it seems to me that one could shoot it over a closer in chrono and through a hole in a paper target then into a sheet of paper at some distance which has a hack mark on it that was leveled with the original pass through hole and thus measure the drop.
The idea of the pass through hole in the first "target" is to ensure that the bullet is traveling through a spot with a good degree of accuracy and on to the distant drop indicating target. capture sheet. A good scope would be used to look through the first target and on to the capture target out at 200 or 300 yards. Then with a muzzle velocity and drop at the far capture target one could push numbers through a ballistics program and alter the BC value until the drop matches what was found in the test.
Yes? No?
The idea of the pass through hole in the first "target" is to ensure that the bullet is traveling through a spot with a good degree of accuracy and on to the distant drop indicating target. capture sheet. A good scope would be used to look through the first target and on to the capture target out at 200 or 300 yards. Then with a muzzle velocity and drop at the far capture target one could push numbers through a ballistics program and alter the BC value until the drop matches what was found in the test.
Yes? No?
- Location
- Jameson, SK
Can anyone tell me their experience with Chinchaga's for hunting? I'm very keen to try them for LR target, but my brother is asking for critters. They'd be in a .300wsm, likely the 205gr steel tip.
I'd actually like to hear any and all opinions on them. I'm intrigued by them, and their pointy-ness.
Thx.
-J.
I'd actually like to hear any and all opinions on them. I'm intrigued by them, and their pointy-ness.
Thx.
-J.
I have a bunch of Dale's bullets [Chinchaga] in both bonded and non-bonded varieties.
While they shoot well, I have not taken any game with them, so cannot comment on that aspect.
I would avoid using a bullet designed for targets on game animals, despite what some are doing with target projectiles. [Berger comes to mind]
Regards, Dave.
While they shoot well, I have not taken any game with them, so cannot comment on that aspect.
I would avoid using a bullet designed for targets on game animals, despite what some are doing with target projectiles. [Berger comes to mind]
Regards, Dave.
- Location
- Jameson, SK
Can someone breakdown the jyst of bonded vs non- bonded for me?
Thx
-J.
Thx
-J.
Bonded bullets have a chemical or metallurgical "bond" between the jacket and the core [dissimilar metals]
Theoretically at least, the core adheres to the jacket, and when the bullet hits bone or flesh, it will not separate core from jacket.
A non-bonded bullet has no such adherence, and in cup and core design, can separate completely. At that point, penetration ceases.
Often, cup and core bullets may incorporate some mechanical means to try to keep the parts together. [Hornady Interlock, Remington Cor-Lokt, etc]
Bonded bullets usually fall into the "premium" category, thus you pay more for them. It is up to the shooter to justify whether this is worthwhile or not.
For light-bodied, thin skinned game, bonded bullets are not really necessary. [Think Deer, Pronghorn, etc] But as the game gets larger, and the bones get heavier,
a case can be made for the advantage of "premium" bullets. [Bonded, Partitions, Monometals, etc] This particularly applies when hunting something that can bite back, lol.
One trend that I am NOT copying is the use of thin-jacketed, non-bonded target type bullets for shooting big game.
I have already seen several "surface" wounds without penetration with this type of bullet.
Hope this helps. Dave.
Theoretically at least, the core adheres to the jacket, and when the bullet hits bone or flesh, it will not separate core from jacket.
A non-bonded bullet has no such adherence, and in cup and core design, can separate completely. At that point, penetration ceases.
Often, cup and core bullets may incorporate some mechanical means to try to keep the parts together. [Hornady Interlock, Remington Cor-Lokt, etc]
Bonded bullets usually fall into the "premium" category, thus you pay more for them. It is up to the shooter to justify whether this is worthwhile or not.
For light-bodied, thin skinned game, bonded bullets are not really necessary. [Think Deer, Pronghorn, etc] But as the game gets larger, and the bones get heavier,
a case can be made for the advantage of "premium" bullets. [Bonded, Partitions, Monometals, etc] This particularly applies when hunting something that can bite back, lol.
One trend that I am NOT copying is the use of thin-jacketed, non-bonded target type bullets for shooting big game.
I have already seen several "surface" wounds without penetration with this type of bullet.
Hope this helps. Dave.
- Location
- Jameson, SK
That sure does, thank you!!!
-J.
-J.
