How many handloads are you getting out of your .303 Enfield brass?

The_Champ

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Out of curiosity, a question for hand loaders. How many reloads are you getting with your .303 brass in your Lee Enfields? And how does it stack up to your reloads in other calibers.

Thanks!
 
I mostly shoot cast bullets in the 1200-1800fps range and im over 25 relaods on some of my winchester brass. Never had any issues with any of my cases yet (now upto 320 of them, shoot about 1000 a year). I havent even trimmed them. I do anneal them every 10 relaods.
 
Buy the heaviest brass you can find and then neck size only. Lee-Enfields are notorious for deep and sloppy chambers. FL re-sizing means short case life in them.


One thing you left out. Keep the reloads for each rifle you're going to shoot them in marked for that particular rifle. I've had rifles with excellent bores and right on max spec chamber diameters. The rounds fired in those rifles that are only neck resized will give issues chambering in rifles with minimum spec chambers.

Most people will only have one rifle so it won't be an issue. The thing is, if you're loading for several rifles, you will likely have to partially resize the case at the very least. If your collection has chamber specs varying on plus/minus extremes and you don't want to be bothered with keeping the cases separated, then you will have to full length resize and live with the results.
 
Neck size only (sort brass to each rifle if you have to, it's worth it) probably a dozen with good brass (PPU) and not too hot a load (39 +/- grains of 4064 with 174 grain Hornady's or Match Kings)
 
I shoot a number of different LE's and I've found a big improvement in accuracy with all rifles from full-length resized handloads (basically cutting group sizes in half with everything from No. 4 T's to P14's). I've gone on to keep separate brass and neck size only for a couple but with only marginal further improvement in accuracy. I've use smellie's recommended loads and found no need for further work.

milsurpo
 
I've gone on to keep separate brass and neck size only for a couple but with only marginal further improvement in accuracy. I've use smellie's recommended loads and found no need for further work.

milsurpo

Would you mind sharing Smellie's load recommendations? Please and thank you.
 
dagc: If I can find the original thread I'll attach a link. It may take a while. The basic idea was to aim for velocities around 10% below original military Mk VII loads.

milsurpo
 
dagc: If I can find the original thread I'll attach a link. It may take a while. The basic idea was to aim for velocities around 10% below original military Mk VII loads.

milsurpo

Thanks kindly sir.

I plan on testing P14's and a small flock of No.1/No.4's this coming weekend, all with hand loads.

(I've found the 303 loves Reloader 15 for 180gr projectiles; IMR4064 for 123gr SKS projectiles, btw).
 
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I've been reloading for 303 for years. As I have several 303's, my approach has been to partially resize to the tightest chamber (BSA P-14) such that the brass can be used in all rifles. I generally use commercial brass such as Rem and Winchester. I haven't gone beyond 3 reloads (so much brass, so little time.)
Recently I was surprised by some Winchester brass. After its second firing, it developed small longitudinal splits in the neck. These were not easy to see, I managed to catch it by chance. Obviously, the thin and brittle brass did not like the expansion and contraction at the neck. BTW - this brass was fired in a relatively tight chamber (Ross MK 111) with light loads. I've now introduced annealing into my regimen.
 
Modern US made commercial brass is generally quite poor, and is not made to the correct specifications. If you can find Prvi Partisan ammunition, or cases, you'll find it's made to the proper specification for capacity, and lasts much longer than anything made in the US. It's already annealed as it should be.

https://www.tradeexcanada.com/content/303-british-brass-prvi--

The back face of the case rim is properly chamfered too.
 
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Modern US made commercial brass is generally quite poor, and is not made to the correct specifications. If you can find Prvi Partisan ammunition, or cases, you'll find it's made to the proper specification for capacity, and lasts much longer than anything made in the US. It's already annealed as it should be.

https://www.tradeexcanada.com/content/303-british-brass-prvi--

The back face of the case rim is properly chamfered too.

To boot, the rim is also undersize. I've got several hundred Greek HXP brass that is on deck, once I use up my Winchester brass. I've got a few 303's with commercial chambers, so I'm gonna try the Winchester brass in them...
 
I`m using up my Winchester stuff too before I move on to the good Prvi, S&B, IVI and some Greek and Yugo military stuff that may or may not be any good. I also have some berdan primed Russian stuff, look out for that. was apparently fairly common a while back. it will snap your de-priming pin off if you are not looking for berdan primers.

while I`ve not had case separation,(there are indicators) I have had several Winchester brass split lengthwise in one of my No 1s, and the primer pockets expand on 5 (although that last may have been my fault)so that they won`t hold a new primer
 
I've got a stash of 80's vintage FN brass from the military ball that was available a few years ago. It was pretty decent ammo, and the brass is well made. Unfortunately it is Berdan primed, and the supply of Berdan primers in Canada seems to have dried up... Anybody got a line?
 
I've got a stash of 80's vintage FN brass from the military ball that was available a few years ago. It was pretty decent ammo, and the brass is well made. Unfortunately it is Berdan primed, and the supply of Berdan primers in Canada seems to have dried up... Anybody got a line?

I've been slowly working through a large bag of that brass I bought at our local gunshow a few years ago, all FN 79 headstamp. The brass I have has all been fired at least once and has been reprimed by someone along the way before I bought it. Very good quality stuff for sure but as you pointout the primer issue is problematic.
 
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