This. - dan
How many rounds would it take to foul a barrel to the point of accuracy loss?
- Thread starter gord1986
- Start date
This. - dan
Take the action out of the stock and make sure you didn't get any cleaning solvent or oil between the action and stock. No mention of ammo used? Different lot number? As stated get yourself a Dewey cleaning rod, a brass bag and suitable cleaning patches. I have never found Hoppes to be a very good copper solvent, find some wipe out, G96 Military grade bore cleaner or some Sweet's 7.62.
Once you get the barrel clean try some more groups after firing a few round to foul the barrel. Stop cleaning after every range use, I have gone over 800 rounds without cleaning and still won matches.
Once you get the barrel clean try some more groups after firing a few round to foul the barrel. Stop cleaning after every range use, I have gone over 800 rounds without cleaning and still won matches.
Ball park idea for copper fouling a barrel? My Savage 5R (in 308Win) can fire 350 rounds and still no signs of opened up groups.
Also be aware that it may takes 30-50 shots after a copper removal for the barrel to re stabilize. So you don't want to clean so often, or you clean avery 10 shots.
Dark
Also be aware that it may takes 30-50 shots after a copper removal for the barrel to re stabilize. So you don't want to clean so often, or you clean avery 10 shots.
Dark
A mod 10 223 could go 150 rounds of Varget/factory loaded ammo before ANY noticeable degradation of accuracy after break in, based on one that I had. a 308 would likely be around 300+.
Even then, only the powder and minimal copper removal was done. Hoppes #9, 10 stokes and patched until slight grey on patch. Cold bore accuracy returned.
With the issues you mention, If it isn't you or the scope, mount or receiver screw torque, I'd remove the brake and inspect/clean the crown. You can't clean it properly any other way.
Then after cleaning reinstall and time the brake.
Even then, only the powder and minimal copper removal was done. Hoppes #9, 10 stokes and patched until slight grey on patch. Cold bore accuracy returned.
With the issues you mention, If it isn't you or the scope, mount or receiver screw torque, I'd remove the brake and inspect/clean the crown. You can't clean it properly any other way.
Then after cleaning reinstall and time the brake.
Copper fouling builds up for hundreds of rounds. During that time speed and accuracy is actually increasing to a stable point and only then the group will start open up SLOWLY. By opening up I mean 1 MOA to 1.2 to 1.4 to 1.7. If you round count is in dozens and you see jumps from 1MOA to 2-3 MOA it has nothing to do with copper. In fact a rigorous cleaning will only make it worse.
All you actually want to know about copper fouling:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KRUAv3Byp4
If the mount was loose but it didn't came back 100%. I would assume - rings are loose or action screws. Re-tight everything. Take out action out of the stock examine if you have oil or whatever between action and the stock, it should be dry and clean in the places action meets the stock.
All you actually want to know about copper fouling:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KRUAv3Byp4
If the mount was loose but it didn't came back 100%. I would assume - rings are loose or action screws. Re-tight everything. Take out action out of the stock examine if you have oil or whatever between action and the stock, it should be dry and clean in the places action meets the stock.
I had the exact thing happen once, it was on a mossberg, it was shooting good then all of a sudden things started going wonky, it wasn't my scope, after removing the action I found the recoil lug broke the plastic frame work inside the stock, a replacement stock cured the issue. and as mentioned check the action screws, A good rule is used or new always disassemble and re-tighten all screws before use, even factories make mistakes.
I shoot match grade stainless barrels. They are carefully broken in, and then I typically only clean about every 200 rounds. That way the first shot of the day goes where it is supposed to go.
If you are using a factory barrel, it should be cleaned with a good rod and proper cleaners, like Sweets and Wipeout.
If you have over-torqued the rear action screw, the groups can go to pot.
If you are using a factory barrel, it should be cleaned with a good rod and proper cleaners, like Sweets and Wipeout.
If you have over-torqued the rear action screw, the groups can go to pot.
For copper fouling the round count before problems can vary from 10 to never. If you're talking missing the paper, go
with never.
Loose screws waste more ammo than everything else put together. Tight ring screws are also
no guarantee that the scope isn't sliding in the rings. I've seen very experienced shooters with custom
rifles and the best of most things burn through a few boxes worth of WTFs before that gets spotted. Embarrassingly,
it is often easier spotted by someone else ��. My own record was spotting a sliding Nightforce from
4 or 5 benches down, but the Aussie guide that had the scope on his .375 slip so far that one ring was right off the base was pretty funny too. He knew his rifle had gone sour, and was setting it up on sand-bags on his Landcruiser bonnet (hood to us, I think
they say bonnet) when I suggested he save his shells.
Had another one a couple weeks ago when my shooting partner went from "this thing has never moved before" to "this thing is all over the place". Ordinarily I leave people with guns that talk to themselves alone, but I waited until the rifle was empty to mention that he had two 1/2" silver skid marks on his mostly blue scope. His screws were tight too. Luckily
he never made me walk home.
Junk and poorly fitting rings can waste more money than they cost in a few minutes.
with never.
Loose screws waste more ammo than everything else put together. Tight ring screws are also
no guarantee that the scope isn't sliding in the rings. I've seen very experienced shooters with custom
rifles and the best of most things burn through a few boxes worth of WTFs before that gets spotted. Embarrassingly,
it is often easier spotted by someone else ��. My own record was spotting a sliding Nightforce from
4 or 5 benches down, but the Aussie guide that had the scope on his .375 slip so far that one ring was right off the base was pretty funny too. He knew his rifle had gone sour, and was setting it up on sand-bags on his Landcruiser bonnet (hood to us, I think
they say bonnet) when I suggested he save his shells.
Had another one a couple weeks ago when my shooting partner went from "this thing has never moved before" to "this thing is all over the place". Ordinarily I leave people with guns that talk to themselves alone, but I waited until the rifle was empty to mention that he had two 1/2" silver skid marks on his mostly blue scope. His screws were tight too. Luckily
he never made me walk home.
Junk and poorly fitting rings can waste more money than they cost in a few minutes.
