How many times can you reload brass?

MD

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How many times can you reload brass before you have to start over?

I've used some of my 300 Winchester magnum brass 3 or 4 times already and my 270 brass about the same.

What are signs of wear, stress, expansion, etc.?
 
I really wish i could find it but there was an old article somewhere that someone scanned on the internet and a guy tested rem and win brass to see how many full size resize firings he could get out of his reloads and IIRC they were somewhere in the 40-50 reload range before they showed signs of stress.

The winchester brass lasted longer I remember that.

signs of wear include cracks in the necks for one thing at the extreme end of life. you should also be measuring your case length as you will have to trim them now and again as you reload them. Just look in your reloading manuals to find max case length.

overall though, in general, you can reload brass lots and lots before considering throwing it in the salvage pile.
 
It depends to a large degree on the chamber size of your gun and how you resize the brass. If you have a large chamber with too much headspace and full length resize every time, then life can be as little as 3-4 firings.

On the other end of the extreme, those with custom chambers 0.001-0.002" larger than the case, and only sizing back 0.001" or so, can have brass last 40 times or more.

For the average gun with standard dimensions and only neck sizing, 20 reloads is quite possible. This even can be extended if you annealed the brass neck/shoulder every 5 loads or so.

Normal failure is a split in the neck. Less common is a crack or even head separation just in front of the head. This is most often caused by excessive headspace and FL resizing each load.
 
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Depends on the pressure too. It you're running your loads fairly hot, the primer pockets will get whore'd out and no longer hold the primers before anything else fails. Some brands of brass is known for having this happen even at moderately high pressures.
 
As already stated it all depends. Chamber size, amount of resizing, intensity of the loads, age of brass etc. I would say with normal under max loads, a chamber not at the extremes of SAMMI dimensions, and a complete resize each time, 10 reloads would not be out of the normal.
 
Mine happen like komb said. I get loose primer pockets after about 5 reloads with my 300wsm. I load at or below the book #'s, depending on performance and inspection of brass and primers after firing (as well as bolt lift, chrony results etc).
My 260 I have reloaded some brass at least 8-10 times, and have found no issues at all yet. It does run at a lot less pressure than the 300 so I expect this.
As stated above, it depends on a lot of things, and some that you will have no control over (chamber).
 
The first thing to go on most brass is the primer pockets, particulalry on Magnums. They become loose. Then, splitting of the necks, or case separation at the belt.

I have 6BR brass that has been used countless times. I have saved every bullet box I have ever used and saved them in a giant box. I got the brilliant idea to count 6mm 105 boxes, and I quit counting at 120, so more than 12000 bullets through my 6BR brass. I have had to discard only two from slpit necks. The primers are all tight, and I anneal after every firing.

My 6BR brass has outlived multiple barrels... If lapua don't make it, I basically don't shoot it.
 
I have reloaded 270 12 times at full loads with no problems. You just have to inspect your cases each time you reload them.
 
I had some 223 brass that I use the Lee collet die on , and one box of 50 I reloaded 34 or 35 times.Out of that I had a couple of cases that were cracked at the necks and I couple that were starting to do a head seperation, so that was about the time I just shot and tossed them.They had served me well !!!
 
300 win mag brass. Signs of impending failure. Look for the light coloured ring going around the case. Obviously, they are lined up from left to right, best being on the left.

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I was getting around 13 firings out of my brass under full pop loads. I have some that I've fired in excess of 20 times shooting reduced loads with cast bullets. Typically, I'll fire them all 5 or 6 times just neck sizing, then I'll have to full length size again, then get another 5 or 6. Some will take another full length size, and some won't. Always inspect your brass before reloading. I have a tool that I specifically keep for removing brass from the chamber in this gun if I get a head separation. It still isn't fun getting it out, so I try no to push it over the limit. Since these pics were taken, I've changed the barrel and tightened up the headspace. We'll see how it goes from here.
 
I have a lot of yugo 8x57 brass shot about 40-50 times over last 3-4 years with 14 Gr of red dot and casts-that lot is about to be scrapped,neck are beginning to crack.
I also have another lot of Win 38-55 shot about 30-40 times with full power BP duplex loads and various casts.That lot will go as soon as order of starline brass arrives.

All of those cases were neck sized and annealed once in a while.BP cases are cleaned with warm water+soap right after firing,dries and scrubbed with old brass bore brush.

On the other hand I have a lot of Grafs 8x56R with barely 10 light cast loadings and there is only 27 left out of 50.Necks split like crazy and I'm not sure if I have bad lot or whats going on.

Life of brass depends on a lot of factors-power of loads,neck sizing vs FL sizing,proper annealing of necks,chamber size,bullets used,quality and size of primers used (primer pocket size is also very important-if you stretch it with too big primers cases are done for)
 
In my experience the primer pockets give up the ghost first, followed by head separation, followed by neck splitting. If you load light and neck size only, your brass can last a very long time, but if you are more concerned with power and reliable cycling, meaning you full length size every time, you will have to replace brass more frequently. In a hunting rifle, I typically get 5-10 loads from a cartridge case before the primer pocket opens up and I discard it.
 
300 win mag with really hot loads, brass head seperates after 5 firings. down loaded to 30-06 ballistics and it lasts for 20+ firings.
270 with full length resize each time lasts for 8 firings unless I anneal the necks every 4 firings, then they can last for up to 16 -18 firings.
All cases should be inspected before being reloaded, check for head separation, cracks in the neck and how easy or firm the primer goes in.
Happy reloading!
 
Brass life is dependent on how much it is or is not sized. The longest life brass is that where it is sized to the point where you feel slight resistance felt when the bolt is closed. I am talking on a bolt action rifle.

In a pump or a semi auto, they are different beasts all together. You need brass that will definately go in easier to allow the bolt to be able to lock when the slides move forward. This brass will not last nearly as long.

I have yet to loose a case from my 6BR or 6PPC due to cracking. I just throw them out when I feel like it and start with new on spur of the moments.

CBY
 
In my experience the primer pockets give up the ghost first, followed by head separation, followed by neck splitting.

A wonderful illustration of how different things are for different shooters. I estimate I lose well over 90% of my cases to neck splits. Case head separations are not uncommon in my .250 Savage, but I have never had one in any other rifle. As for loose primer pockets? What are those?
 
A wonderful illustration of how different things are for different shooters. I estimate I lose well over 90% of my cases to neck splits. Case head separations are not uncommon in my .250 Savage, but I have never had one in any other rifle. As for loose primer pockets? What are those?

I think there are different root causes and ways to minimize the root cause effect.

Head Separation - Believe the root cause is excessive headspace. This is quite easy to correct on a Savage gun, using their barrel nut system. The effect can be minimized by neck sizing only, or when FL sizing, only push the shoulder back 0.001" instead of all the way. Sometimes this issue is blamed on belted mag cases. I've loaded my .264WM over 20 times and have never had a head separation. But I have seen them in other guns, both belted and not belted.

Neck Splitting - Root cause is the size of the neck being large, making it necessary to significantly size the neck back down again. You can minimize this to some degree by using a bushing die, which sizes down less, and periodic annealing the case. Custom barrels that have tight necks typically don't have this issue, even without annealing.

Oversize Primer Pockets - I would suggest the root cause is poor brass quality - the head not being cold worked to the proper strength - or softened though improper annealing. I've run my .264WM at loads that are quite a bit over the current guidelines (have rimmed pin dents, and very flat profile), and have never discarded a case due to the primer pocket being too big. Loading down in pressure probably helps, but I would suggest the real cure is good brass.
 
Oversize Primer Pockets - I would suggest the root cause is poor brass quality - the head not being cold worked to the proper strength - or softened though improper annealing.

If you ever annealed to the point of softening the web area of the case, loose primer pockets would be the least of your worries.

Brass quality is a factor in how hot you can load and how long the primer pockets will hold up at a given pressure. Reducing the pressure will definitely give you more firings before the primer pockets loosen.
 
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