Make no mistake, there is a big difference in practical long range precision shooting, and reckoning that there is a direct correlation between the money you drain out of your bank account per rifle and its assumed performance.
I still have the first 308 I bought with the intention of having something able to 'reach out'. Its a Winchester 70, 1970's vintage, on which someone, at some point in time, put an aftermarket barrel. No idea what the twist or round count is. On it, I put a 20 min EGW rail, and mounted a Buckmasters scope with Warne rings. Paid more for the scope rings and base than the rifle, and have less than $1000 into the whole setup.
Naturally, handloading is the best way to hedge against sloppy manufacturing tolerances, so I picked up a Lee Classic Loader in 308 for $30, some powder, non-match primers and 178 grain bullets. Put it all together and give it a shake, and it shoots under minute accurate every day of the week. I've had it out to 550 on paper and 800 at rocks and it performs. Handily doubles as a hunting rifle too.
When I really decided to get adventurous, I bought a Lee hand press and a Factory Crimp Die and my groups went from sub-minute to half minute. Not bad for a $400 rifle.
If you have to ask 'what does it cost?' or 'whats the best rifle?' or how do i...?', don't bother dropping any more than $1500 on a complete setup. Get a trusty used Savage or Tikka (highly recommended, these things are worth every penny in the accuracy dept), put a rail and Nikon scope on it for a couple hundred bucks, some simple reloading gear, and you'll spend the next two or three seasons catching up to the rifle's capability. Then you'll be in a great position where you're ready to drop a couple grand on a rifle and be informed enough that you'll know exactly what you're after. My rig isn't the most stylish stick out there, but the performance exceeds all expectations.
Regarding operating cost: reloaded match ammo in 308 arena will run $1 a round, 223 about half that, Magnums a little more. The only amortized cost is the brass, running about a dime a loading for the Laupa or Norma flavors if you save FL sizing for every third or fourth reload and neck size between. If you're handy with a screw driver and an allen key, maintenance runs on the basis of parts cost only. Learning how to do your own trigger work goes a long way, but the first try is a little nerve racking. Barrel cost depends very much on velocity- shoot lightning fast loads, and you'll erode a barrel in short order; lob slower, heavier, more efficient rounds, and your barrel will thank you in turn. Based on 1000 rounds per year, a 6.5x284 might last three years or less, whereas a 308 shooting 175gr+ could go a decade.
