From time to time people post questions about cast in M14s on here. I have been working with that for a few months now and would like to share what I've found.
First of all, the most important thing for accuracy is that you slug your barrel. (which is where you push a lead projectile through your barrel to check the barrel size.)
I am using a 200gr RNFP projectile made from range scrap and gas checked with hornady .30 cal GCs
I use a Lee universal neck expander to open the necks just slightly on my cases before seating projectiles to avoid the neck shearing the bullet. I setup my RCBS seating/crimp die so that the neck lines up perfectly with the crimp groove and it just give enough crimp to stop the bullet from moving around. I can't move the projectile forward,back,left,right... but i can rotate it.
The projectiles are lubed with Lee liquid alox and sized to .309 with a lee sizing die. I found it to be the quickest and most cost effective way to set them up.
The rifle I'm working with is a 2012 Shorty Norinco M305. Its in a USGI stock with USGI flash hider, USGI handguard, and NEA oprod spring guide. The gas system locks up tight and the handguard doesn't move at all. The only problem with this rifle is an over indexed barrel but since im using a scope its not a big concern. Scope is a Bushnell 10x40 Elite tactical on a Gen 1 SA scope mount.
Although I haven't completely ironed out my recipe. I have had very good results with the following.
200gr RNFP W/ Gas Check
OAL 2.6"
29.0gr of IMR 4064
Winchester Large rifle primer
100 yard 5 shot group
4 out of the 5 shots land around 1" with the normal 1in5 flyer.
This recipe will cycle the action perfectly on my shorty depositing the brass in a nice pile about 2 feet away. the only problem with it is the bolt stop won't engage after emptying the magazine. (it will engage on a full length barrel)
estimated muzzle velocity is about 1800 fps.
The two main concerns with shooting lead... is leading in the barrel, which I haven't had any problems with running a projectile sized to 0.001' over groove diameter. And if you shoot too fast and heat the barrel up it can start to melt the projectiles in the chamber. So try and keep the barrel cool enough that you can still touch it.
All in All though the cost of doing business is what really makes this all worth while. with only 29.0gr of powder it stretches the lb further. then you just have to buy primers and gas checks. Cases last longer too. Not including brass it costs me about $0.18 per shot
Happy Shooting
Jeremy
First of all, the most important thing for accuracy is that you slug your barrel. (which is where you push a lead projectile through your barrel to check the barrel size.)
I am using a 200gr RNFP projectile made from range scrap and gas checked with hornady .30 cal GCs
I use a Lee universal neck expander to open the necks just slightly on my cases before seating projectiles to avoid the neck shearing the bullet. I setup my RCBS seating/crimp die so that the neck lines up perfectly with the crimp groove and it just give enough crimp to stop the bullet from moving around. I can't move the projectile forward,back,left,right... but i can rotate it.
The projectiles are lubed with Lee liquid alox and sized to .309 with a lee sizing die. I found it to be the quickest and most cost effective way to set them up.
The rifle I'm working with is a 2012 Shorty Norinco M305. Its in a USGI stock with USGI flash hider, USGI handguard, and NEA oprod spring guide. The gas system locks up tight and the handguard doesn't move at all. The only problem with this rifle is an over indexed barrel but since im using a scope its not a big concern. Scope is a Bushnell 10x40 Elite tactical on a Gen 1 SA scope mount.
Although I haven't completely ironed out my recipe. I have had very good results with the following.
200gr RNFP W/ Gas Check
OAL 2.6"
29.0gr of IMR 4064
Winchester Large rifle primer
100 yard 5 shot group
4 out of the 5 shots land around 1" with the normal 1in5 flyer.
This recipe will cycle the action perfectly on my shorty depositing the brass in a nice pile about 2 feet away. the only problem with it is the bolt stop won't engage after emptying the magazine. (it will engage on a full length barrel)
estimated muzzle velocity is about 1800 fps.
The two main concerns with shooting lead... is leading in the barrel, which I haven't had any problems with running a projectile sized to 0.001' over groove diameter. And if you shoot too fast and heat the barrel up it can start to melt the projectiles in the chamber. So try and keep the barrel cool enough that you can still touch it.
All in All though the cost of doing business is what really makes this all worth while. with only 29.0gr of powder it stretches the lb further. then you just have to buy primers and gas checks. Cases last longer too. Not including brass it costs me about $0.18 per shot
Happy Shooting
Jeremy
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