How to Finish a Modern Flintlock Lock Assembly ?

[Loyer]

I bought one of the TOTW flintlock assemblies to complete a restoration of a 1800 flint fowler (original lock had been lost). The lock needed some shaping to fit the existing lock plate orifice .

Now I have the lock plate fitting perfectly but the original lock, #### and frizzen were supplied in a light grey finish and the fitted areas are shinny bright steel.

How are most modern locks finished? Are they polished to bright steel and oiled or maybe browned with "plum brown ? Just didn't want to mess up the project.

 

[Ashcroft]

Vintage 1800 external lock parts were case hardened and showed their case colours when new. Do you want the gun to look period or mixmaster?

 

[tiriaq]

If the gun is brown patina, you could brown the lock and perhaps rub it back to match.

 

[handofzeus]

I haven't worked on a lock in many years but I can offer this. If you need to heat the lock plate as part of the refinishing process REMOVE ALL SPRINGS!!! Heat will kill the temper of any spring. You probably know this but it's too easy to forget when you get absorbed in the refinishing aspect.

 

[B_noser]

I have never seen, or seen reference to, a color case hardened original flint lock. Case hardened - yes and, in particular, the frizzen, but not color case hardened.
The light grey finish you refer to is likely the as-cast finish. I smooth all of my lock parts down to 320 grit and tend to leave them in the white unless I am trying to recreate an aged finish or making repairs to an antique. The aging techniques vary and are determined by the condition of the rest of the gun. Light to heavy pitting can be created by careful use of Clorox bleach. The finish often consists of rust bluing and rubbing back, followed by browning and, perhaps, rubbing back again. Sometimes, the process is reversed. It is an art, not a science, and I am no artist. It is a never-ending learning experience.
I am not a fan of Plum Brown - just personal preference.

 

[Loyer]

Thanks guys. I do want the lock to look old (like the gun) so I will try the browning and rubbing it back and see how that looks.

 

[Gary V]

I am not clear what you did to have various parts bright and others dull - presumably you did not install a complete TOTW lock, which are usually uniform in finish, but some of the components. Anyhow, my Muzzleloader Magazine expertise suggests that muskets were left in the bright but hunting arms were blued, browned, rust blued, etc to reduce spooking game and to reduce glare in the shooter's eye when at the shoulder. The as cast dullness would work but I like the rust blued idea. Lots of different options for you to choose, but not polished bright.

 

[Loyer]

I am not clear what you did to have various parts bright and others dull - presumably you did not install a complete TOTW lock, which are usually uniform in finish, but some of the components. Anyhow, my Muzzleloader Magazine expertise suggests that muskets were left in the bright but hunting arms were blued, browned, rust blued, etc to reduce spooking game and to reduce glare in the shooter's eye when at the shoulder. The as cast dullness would work but I like the rust blued idea. Lots of different options for you to choose, but not polished bright.

I had an existing musket stock and barrel and brass but no lock; the TOTW lock did not fit exactly so I had to grind some of the profile of the lock plate to fit the exist musket (sacrificing a 1/16"of modern lock plate instead of cutting the old wood stock.

This evening I browned the lock plate but couldn't get it dark enough so I added some rub on bluing. That darkened it well enough to look old and fit in with the remainder of the gun.

 

[Gary V]

Understood. And sounds good. I've heard of many people applying various bluing/browning/rusting techniques then cutting them back to get something pleasing. I would suggest a good wax finish to protect the iron-work. That is some awesome work you've done. I love shooting and hunting with these home-spun heroes.

 

[trevj]

Yeah, I figure your best bet is whatever it takes to make the action 'fit in' with the rest of the rifle.

Finishes varied a lot, some of the reading I have done says that the Military guys would scrub their rifles with sand to present a shiny and clean appearance. Otherwise, lots of stuff just took on the color of having been handled and used over the years.

Between a polished and scrubbed case hardened finish, bluing, or browning, it was all pretty much known about and in use at various places, and pretty much seemed to depend on what was fashionable at the time, as much as anything.

If you want an eye opener as far as how many different recipes there were out there, Angier's Bluing and Browning is a good read. From some of the chemical names used, it seems that several of the recipes are far older than he was when he wrote it...

 

[rwnblack]

I have used all different approaches from browning, casehardening and grey patina. I think I prefer the patina. I do tworounds of rust blue, knock back with scotch bright and oil.

 

[rwnblack]

Other options are to heat the lock red hot and quench in used motor oil, gives it a black finish. The other pic is a lick browned with Plumb brown.