How to fix a burr inside shotgun barrel?

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dand883

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Hey Guys, I've got a shotgun barrel that has a burr where the hole was drilled and tapped for the bead on the front. It's not big at all, but when I try to thread in the choke I get it about half way in and meet a fair bit of resistance.

What would be the best way to try to remove the burr? Hand file (if so, what size/grit)? dremel with one of the rounded end stones? I was leaning towards the dremel as it would be focused on the one area, which might be hard to do with a bigger file.

If it was just a bolt in something else I would be tempted to just muscle it past and keep going, but I don't like the idea of doing that with this.
 
Is it on the threading for the choke or past it? Removing a burr from the threaded part sounds like a big problem, but otherwise the Dremel idea sounds reasonable to me.
 
If it's just a burr and not on the threads of the choke I would just use a half round needle file and avoid the Dremel unless you are used to using them they take off a lot of in a very short time and are not for the inexperienced.
 
I would use a small round headed wheel and center your grind on the "protruding" hole and remove as little of the threads as required for your tube to screw in easily. That or run a correct tap for your choke tubes in to clean up the tube threads.
 
I'd try a small wire wheel on a dremel if you can get one in there. The wire wheel won't damage the threads like a stone, but may remove the burr.
 
It's not on the threaded section for the choke, it's invector style, so there's an inch or so of smooth with half an inch or so of threads further in. The burr is on the smooth section where the hole for the bead was drilled/tapped through.

I might try the needle file first, see how that works and save the dremel for a backup.
 
577/450 said:
aShoot it smooth 20-30 rounds and it is gone. Been there done that.
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I don't want to cause a different problem by solving this one, shooting it without a choke in.

Dogleg said:
What happens if you take the bead off? If it screws in then, all you need to do is take a smidge off the bead stem. Is bead stem even a word?:confused:
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You can see the stem of the bead, it's not sticking through at all, it's just back from the surface. It's just a burr from when the hole was tapped that extends into the barrel.
 
If it's on the smooth surface just touch it with one of the fine sanding drums on a dremel and you're done. We shouldn't even be having this conversation. :)
 
dand883 said:
It's not on the threaded section for the choke, it's invector style, so there's an inch or so of smooth with half an inch or so of threads further in. The burr is on the smooth section where the hole for the bead was drilled/tapped through.

I might try the needle file first, see how that works and save the dremel for a backup.
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So are you saying that when a choke is installed the burr is between the outside of the choke and inside of the barrel under the bead? If this is the case any solution mentioned will work and not cause problems with functionality....well except shooting the gun without a choke installed.

Edit: one thing that has worked for a few buddies is to wrap a brass cleaning brush with fine steel wool. Screw the brush into one section of a cleaning rod and the other end of the rod into a variable speed drill. Dampen the steel wool with bore cleaner/shine and start slow. This method is used to polish chambers and should work with time and some patience for your issue as well.
 
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WRap a rubber band around a dowel, then wrap some coarse steel wool around that. Put the dowel with steel wool on end into a drill and use it to hone that section of barrel just as you would when polishing the chamber.
 
hunter5425 said:
So watcha gonna do?
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I think i'll stick with a file for now, with the dremel as backup and see how it goes. I'll probably leave it as a winter project, hunting season has started, and it's not on my main barrel (was on a 2 barrel set) so it's not something I need to get done asap.
 
On smooth surface, yeah, pull the bead and see if it isn't a wee bit long.

Grind a touch off if it needs. Like, a single stroke of a smooth file. It won't take much, if it is actually the bead that pushed it in.

If it was a bump pushed up by the point of the tap used, place the barrel on a smooth hard padded surface, like a clean block of wood, or a bench surface with a leather pad under the area, and fit a round bar as large as you can into the barrel, and give the bar a strike with a hammer and punch to drive the proud metal down. May be all it takes. I have used socket wrench extensions for similar work.

Some 320 or so wet or dry sandpaper around a bit of wood as a backer, and about three minutes, you should be done like dinner. If you can get a harder material for a backer, so much the better. I used a LOT of offcut scraps from clear acrylic stock as sanding backers while polishing various projects. Round, and just large enough to fit inside with a layer of sandpaper, is pretty much the key.

Little risk of doing any damage to worry about, as the proud material takes the brunt of the abrasion. Give it a couple strokes, clean and check for fit, and quit as soon as you get a easy install, which may actually be before the bump you can feel is gone completely.

In the past, CTire had a case full of mounted and unmounted points for their version of a Dremel tool. Good stuff to get on sale, ~$20, not so much at full retail. Anyways, they include a bunch of rubberized abrasive disks that would work well for this job, similar to a Cratex brand rubberized abrasive. They cut a lot slower than a sanding drum, and are not as prone to digging in and scarring up the surface on a runaway.

Lots of good options. Just gonna depend upon what you have on hand, and your willingness to try things.

Cheers
Trev
 
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