Fixing your problem without a welded tab
Welding a tab just forces the reset to stay up under pressure from the tab. The bolt carrier is doing its job and resetting the striker catch but once its reset on a non tabbed bolt carrier, there is nothing keeping the striker catch from staying. You can try this by removing your dust cover, #### the firearm, squeeze the trigger to let the striker go, while still holding onto the trigger, there is a tab you can see on the same pin that the trigger is on. If you press that with you're finger (it takes a bit of force) it resets the sear. However, now press on your reset sear with you're finger. You will notice its very easy to push it down. If you hold that tab then try to push down the sear, it won't move. This is why the welded bolt tab works because it forces that tab down until the full cycle of the action is finished. D-Technik (CSA) discovered this and came up with the welded tab idea to fix this. What is happening to your gun with the CZ gremlin is the recoil from the gun is pushing that sear back down then the striker fails to catch the sear. It just jumps right over it. This is why the problem is intermittent because recoil from these guns aren't exactly the same from surplus ammo. That is also why the CZ Gremlin can sometimes be fixed with the addition of a muzzle brake or the problem doesn't happen with better quality ammo. The problem is the reset, or return spring, is too light. The return spring is the bent piece of metal at the rear of the trigger group. The lighter you make that spring, the lighter your trigger pull will be. However, you run into the problem of the sear not resetting the striker (CZ Gremlin). If you bend that spring up, it will be heavier and put more tension on the sear. You will have a heavier trigger but your gun will no longer have the Gremlin. If you want a lighter trigger pull but no CZ Gremlin, then you will need to have a bolt tab welded on. If you don't care, simply bend that spring up and your gun will be fixed. Simple as that.